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FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 







AMERICAN 



FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



ADAPTED TO THE NORTHERN STATES. 




11 Who loves a garden, loves a green-house too. 
Unconscious of a less propitious clime, 
There blooms exoiic beauty, warm and snug, 
While the winds whistle, and the snows descend.' 



BY EDWARD SAYERS, 

LANDSCAPE AND ORNAMENTAL GARDENER. 






/' 



BOSTON: 

JOSEPH BRECK AND COMPANY 

NEW YORK:— G. C. THORBURN. 

1838. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the rear 1333, by EDWARD SAYERS, in the 
Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 



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INTRODUCTION 



In introducing the present little treatise to the 
reader, it may be well to say a few words on the 
object, plan, and mode of execution of the work. 
The " Flower Garden Companion" is intended to 
aid those persons who are desirous to become ac- 
quainted with the culture of flowers. In its compila- 
tion the aim has been, to give within the compass of 
a convenient manual for reference, as much useful 
matter as possible relative to the subject. To this 
end, each topic has been separately treated and in as 
concise a manner as could be done with propriety : 
and indeed, in some cases with a degree of brevity 
that on the first reading, to the young practitioner, 
might produce a feeling of disappointment at the 
apparent deficiency of information ; but, on a careful 
reading of the different articles it will be found that 
everything useful in so small a treatise has been 
spoken of ; and that, in many instances, one article 
acts as a key to another. 
1 * 



TNTROPUCTION. 



In the outset, directions for laying out the flower 
garden are given, with remarks on various useful and 
ornamental appendages. In treating of this subject, 
I have confined myself to the general outline, without 
entering into minute details, which will much depend 
on location and circumstances, as well as upon the 
taste and means of the proprietor. 

The remarks on the different stimulants requisite 
to plants, and how they act on the vegetable system ; 
with the observations on the leaf, root and bud, 
when fully understood, will be found useful to the 
young cultivator. The different methods of propa- 
gating plants have been treated in the simplest 
manner, in order that success may reward those 
who put them in practice. 

The second " part" is principally occupied with 
directions for the culture of plants and shrubs. To 
each class a descriptive list has been appended, giving 
the color, height, and time of flowering, of such 
varieties as have been found to be best adapted to the 
American flower garden. It should be understood 
that location and the different treatment plants receive 
will have great influence on their color, height and 
time of flowering, which I have set down on a 
medium scale. I have introduced a monthly calendar 
at this part of the work, and some observations on 



INTRODUCTION. Vll 

the variations of plants and flowers, as color, motion, 
and double flowers. 

The green-house being so intimately connected 
with the flower garden, I have devoted a considerable 
space to that subject. Directions are given for the 
treatment of the different families of green-house 
plants, as the Camellia, Erica, etc. ; and descriptive 
lists of the most valuable varieties are subjoined. 

The culture of plants in rooms, the management of 
cut flowers, and a variety of other matters having a 
bearing upon the subject of flower-gardening, consti- 
tute a miscellany which I trust will be found inter- 
esting and useful. At the end of the volume I have 
placed a glossary of the most useful terms in botany, 
(for which I am principally indebted to Stroud,) 
to enable young beginners to become acquainted 
with the terminology of plants. 

Although the " Companion" is professedly adapted 
to the Northern States, it will be evident to the 
intelligent reader that, in regard to the growth and 
time of flowering of plants, some allowance must be 
made for the difference of climate in the various sec- 
tions of those States. I have adopted the meridian 
of New York and Massachusetts in giving the time 
of planting and flowering ; where the season is earlier 
or later than in these States, a corresponding differ- 



Vlll INTRODUCTION. 

ence in the time of performing the various operations 
of the flower garden should be observed. 

I must here beg leave to acknowledge my obliga- 
tions to several practical gardeners and lovers of 
flowers for their kind assistance in framing the lists of 
plants and for useful hints for this little treatise, which 
I send to the world hoping it may have a tendency to 
throw some light on the culture of the flower garden ; 
and should my feeble efforts in any way give a new 
impulse to the zeal already manifest in the culture of 
flowers, my earnest wishes will be fully answered. 
EDWARD SAYERS. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PART 1. 

ARRANGEMENT OF THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PROPAGATION 
OF PLANTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

ON LAYING OUT THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

Art. 1. General Remarks, - - - - - - - 13 

2. Laying out the Flower Garden and Planting, - - 14 

3. Soil and Materials, - - 16 

4. General Planting of Shrubs and Flowers, - - - 16 

5. Location or Position of Plants, - - - - 17" 

6. Plan and Management of Trellises and Arbors, - - 18 

7. Forming and Planting the Rockery, - - - 19 

8. Ornamental Waters and Bridges, - - - -20 

CHAPTER II. 

ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 

Art. 1. Preliminary Remarks, - - - - - - 21 

2. Food of Plants, 22 

3. Light, 24 

4. Heat, 25 

5. Observations on the Roots of Plants, 26 

6. Observation on the Bud, ------ 27 

7. Observations on the Leaf, ----- 28 

CHAPTER III. 

ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 

Art. 1. General Observations, -------30 

2. Propagation by Seed, - - - - - - 31 

3. Propagation by Roots, -------32 

4. Propagation by Running Vines and Creepers, - - 33 

5. Propagation by Cuttings, ------ 33 

6. Propagation by Layers, ------ 34 

7. Increase by Inoculation, ------ 35 



X CONTENTS. 

PART 2. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE FLOWER GARDEN AND CULTURE OF 
PLANTS — WITH DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 

Abt. 1. Annual Flowers, ------- 35 

2. Growing Annuals in Hot Beds, for Planting out early, - 39 

3. Sowing the Seed in the natural Ground, 40 

4. Descriptive List of Annual Flowers, - - - - 41 

5. Biennial Flowers, -----.-43 

CHAPTER II . 

ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS. 

Art. 1. Perennial Herbaceous Plants, - - - - - 44 

2. Descriptive List of Perennial Herbaceous Flow'g Plants, 46 

3. Descriptive List of Tuberous and Fleshy Rooted Peren- 

nial Plants, --51 

CHAPTER III. 

ON THE CULTURE OF SHRUBS AND VINES. 

Art. 1. Shrubs, - 52 

2. Descriptive List of Dwarf Hardy Shrubs, 54 

3. Descriptive List of Tall Shrubs and Dwarf Ornamental 

Trees, _ 55 

4. Hardy Running Vines for Covering Arbors, &c. - - 57 

5. Descriptive List of Hardy Vines, ----- 57 

CHAPTER IV. 

ON THE CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 

Art. 1. Remarks, .--- 53 

2. Descriptive List of Roses, - 61 

CHAPTER V. 

ON THE CULTURE OF FLORISTS' FLOWERS. 

Art. 1. The Double Dahlia. 63 

2. Descriptive List of Double Dahlias, . - - - 65 

3. Bulbous Rooted Plants, ------ 67 

4. Descriptive List of Bulbous Rooted Plants, - - - 63 

5. The Carnation, 73 

0. The Pink, 74 

7. Polyanthus and Auricula, 75 

CHAPTER VI. 

ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 

Art. 1. Object of the Monthly Calendar, 76 

2. January, -..,-»• 76 

3. February, ---- 77 

4. March, ----- 77 

5. April, 73 

6. May, 79 



CONTENTS. XI 

AaT. 7. June, 80 

8. July, 81 

9. August, 83 

10. September, 84 

11. October, 86 

12. November, 86 

13. December, 87 

CHAPTER VII. 

ON THE VARIATIONS AND DISEASES OF PLANTS. 

Art. 1. Variation of Plants, 8S 

2. Color of Plants and Flowers, 89 

3. Double Flowers, 91 

4. Motion of Plants, 92 

5. Insects and Diseases of Plants, - - - - 94 



PART 3. 

CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 
CHAPTER 1. 

ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

Art. 1. Location and Plan, ----.-.97 

2. Mode of Heating, 98 

3. Walk and Stages, 100 

4. Repairing and Cleansing, ----- 101 

CHAPTER TI. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 

Art. 1. Taking the Plants into Winter Quarters and Potting, - 102 

2. Arranging the Plants in the House, ... 103 

3. Watering the Plants, 104 

4. Temperature of the House, 105 

5. Descriptive List of Green-house Plants, ... 106 

6. Tender Bulbous Rooted Plants, - - - - 111 

CHAPTER III. 

ON THE CULTURE OF THE CAMELLIA JAPONICA. 

Art. 1. Remarks, - - - 113 

2. Propagation, - - - 114 

3. Management in the Green-house, - - - - 115 

4. Repotting the Plants, 116 

5. Descriptive List of Camellias, 117 

CHAPTER IV. 

ON THE CULTURE OF THE GERANIUM, CHINA ROSE, AND ERICA. 

Art. 1. The Geranium or Pelargonium, - - - - 118 

2. List of Geraniums, ------- 120 

3. The China Rose, 121 



Xll CONTENTS. 

Art. 4. List of China Roses, 122 

5. The Erica, - 122 

6. Its Culture and Propagation, ----- 123 

7. Descriptive List of Ericas, 125 



PART 4. 

THE FLOWER GARDEN MISCELLANY. 
CHAPTER I. 

ON THE CITY FLOWER GARDEN. 127 

CHAPTER II. 

OS THE NATIVE AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN. 130 

CHAPTER III. 

ON PLUNGING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN THE FLOWER BORDERS. 132 

CHAPTER IV. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF CUT FLOWERS. 135 

CHAPTER V. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF PLANTS IN ROOMS, AND OF BULBS IN POTS 
AND WATER GLASSES. 

Art. I. Result of Mismanagement, --._.. 137 

2. Management of Plants, 138 

3. Growing Bulbous Rooted Plants for Rooms, - - 140 

4. Growing Bulbs in Glasses, ------ no 

CHAPTER VI. 

ON THE MANAGEMENT OF GARDEN FRAMES. 141 

CHAPTER VII. 

ON SPRING AND FALL MANAGEMENT. 

Art. 1. Spring Management, 143 

2. Fall Management and Covering Plants, . - - 145 

CHAPTER VIII. 

ON THE SHRUBBERY. 147 

CHAPTER IX. 

ON POTTING AND REPOTTING PLANTS. 

Art. 1- Potting Green-house Plants, - - - - • 150 
2 Potting of Plants taken from the Ground, - - - 151 

3. Potting of Young Plants from Cuttings, - - - 151 

CHAPTER X. 

ON THE CULTURE OF THE PANSY OR HEARTSEASE. 152 



The Prairie, 15& 

Glossary, 157 

Appendix, --.----...- \§s 



PART 1. 

ARRANGEMENT OF THE FLOWER GARDEN, AND PRO- 
PAGATION OF PLANTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

On Laying out the Flower Garden. 



Art. 1. — General Remarks. 

The principal object of the " Flower garden " being 
to please the eye, it should in every department have a 
clean and healthy appearance, which greatly facilitates 
the health and growth of the plants and flowers that it 
contains. 

The situation should be so selected, that all the kinds 
of plants are, as near as possible, accommodated to their 
natural location, which, by general observation, will be 
found to be of a more varied nature than can in any given 
spot be combined to suit the health and growth of such 
plants as are placed in the flower garden : hence the 
propriety of selecting a soil, that will suit most kinds ; • 
and in some cases, a proper soil, to suit those plants that 
will not thrive without their peculiar earth to support 
them. 

A knowledge of these requisites, is in a great mea- 
sure, the leading principle of what is called flower-gar- 
2 



14 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

dening; although in many cases, the mere act of culture 
is the only object in view, which has but little weight on 
the subject ; for we can observe wild flowers growing 
luxuriantly in their natural state, without any other as- 
sistance thin the hand of nature. 

For a definition of the different modes and manage- 
ment of flowers, I refer the reader to their respective 
heads. 

A rt. 2.— Laying out the Flower Garden and, Planting. 

It is difficult to give a correct method, for laying out 
flower gardens, owing to the diversified opinions of dif- 
ferent persons, which are much at variance with each 
other. Some say that nature should be copied, as much 
as possible, others that formal lines and geometrical fig- 
ures, such as circles, ovals, &c, are best. 

The principal object to be considered in laying out the 
flower garden, is the extent and location of the ground, 
and the taste of the owner. 

At country residences, where a large extent is appro- 
priated to this department, many convenient and pleasing 
appendages can be judiciously introduced ; as rustic 
arbors, rustic seats, and rockery ; and if water can be 
connected, it always gives a good effect. All such ap- 
pendages, I recommend to be constructed in as natural 
a manner as possible. 

The arbors should be covered with vines and creepers, 
and their form not be discovered until the person who 
is desirous to rest, after viewing the flowers in the other 
departments, happens to stroll into them by an easy 
walk : all such places should be constructed in the shade, 
for retirement, and not on a rocky eminence, under the 
influence of the burning sun, unless a fine landscape is 



ON LAYING OUT THE FLOWER GARDEN. 15 

to be seen from them, and then an observatory is more 
proper. 

In many cases, the floAver garden will have a pleasing 
appearance, when various figures are cut in a well kept 
grass plat, where ease should invariably be attended to. 

In laying out flower gardens, great care should always 
be taken, that there is a regular proportion of the beds 
and walks in the different departments ; for it will have 
a bad effect if any thing is cramped. The walks should 
if possible be wide enough for two persons to walk 
abreast, in order to give a social effect, which should 
always be the first consideration in the flower garden. 
The beds should also be well proportioned, and not too 
much cut up into small figures, which when bordered 
with box edging, have the appearance of so many figures 
formed for the amusement of children more than for the 
purpose of growing flowers. There is also another 
great error sustained in this method, namely, the edging 
will retard the growth of the flowers by being close to 
them ; for indeed there is nothing that so much exhausts 
the soil of nutriment, as box edging. 

Every department should have an open, easy appear- 
ance and regular proportion. 

I must also beg leave to caution my readers against 
the very improper method often practised of planting 
fruit trees in the flower borders and among shrubs : — 
the impropriety is very evident, if we take into consider- 
ation that many of the flowers must eventually be spoil- 
ed in gathering the fruit ; besides the inducements pre- 
sented for children to injure the flowers when in the act 
of robbing the trees of their fruit. 

If fruit is to be planted, a proper place should be se- 
lected ; it should never be mingled among shrubs and 



16 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

jloiocrs ; unless the ornamental kinds, as the Siberian 
crab, Weeping cherry and the like ; and those have a bet- 
ter effect as a single ornamental object. 

Art. 3. — Soil and Materials. 

The soil best adapted for the flower garden, is a mel- 
low loam incorporated with some rotten manure, and a 
portion of dry sand, with a dry mellow subsoil. 

A part of the ground should also be of a boggy 
nature, composed of black earth and decayed leaves, in 
a low situation, for the accommodation of such plants, as 
grow in a boggy soil ; which are Lobelias, Iris, and the 
like. 

The other materials, are gravel for walks, which should 
be rough for the bottoms to drain off the water from the 
surface, and fine gravel for the top in order that the 
walk may bind hard. Stones for the rockery should 
be of the roughest kind, that nature may be as much as 
possible imitated ; and the materials for arbors and 
trellises and the like should be of the most simple con- 
struction. 

Art. 4. — General Planting of Shrubs and Flowers. 

The best time for planting shrubs and flowers is in the 
spring, when the sap is beginning to rise. This general- 
ly happens in the month of April, and is, perhaps, the 
best time for performing such business. 

In many cases, planting may be very judiciously and 
economically done in the fall, especially on dry ground, 
and where hasty improvements are to be made : much 
work will thus be forwarded before the coming spring. 

The manner of planting may be simply stated in a few 
words, combining trees, shrubs and flowers. As almost 



ON LAYING OUT THE FLOWER GARDEN. 17 

every species of plants have a conjunction of their roots, 
a few inches under the earth's surface, which, if -I may 
be allowed the term, I will consider as the crown of the 
roots: let this be the criterion of planting, that the above 
mentioned part be placed a few inches below the surface, 
and not too deep, which, in many cases, destroys the 
plants, particularly those that do not freely root from the 
foot or the base of the stem, when their natural roots 
are destroyed by being placed in a situation injurious to 
them. 

The proper manner of planting, or act of inserting the 
roots, so as to insure the growth of the plants, is simply 
to observe the nature of the fibrous roots and place them 
in their natural position in the soil. 

Those plants that extend their roots far around the 
crown or centre, require a hole made to accommodate 
them, without cramping their roots ; others that root down- 
ward in a perpendicular manner, as the Pseony and tuber- 
ous roots, and most kinds of bulbs, should be planted so 
that the roots find their way into deep, rich soil. 

In the act of planting, place the crown of the roots an 
inch or two deep, and close the fine earth well about the 
fibres with either the hand or foot, observing well the 
nature of the roots : and if the ground is very dry in the 
spring, give a quantity of water to settle the earth about 
them. 

Art. 5. — Location or Position of Plants. 
Plants in their natural state, have their peculiar loca- 
tion : it is also requisite to see them in perfection, to place 
them in similar locations, under the hand of the cultiva- 
tor : hence, running vines, such as Honeysuckles, Clema- 
tis, Bignonias, and so on, are most proper for covering 
2* 



18 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

arbors and trellises, Ivy and Virginian creepers for 
walls, tall shrubs for concealing old boarded fences, and 
unsightly objects, and the pretty dwarf flowering shrubs, 
as the Double Almond, Mazeron, and Roses, should be 
brought nearer the eye of the observer. Their position 
should also be such, as to give the effect of variety of 
color, and so arranged that a variety is always in blossom, 
which can be effected, by referring to the descriptive list, 
of the several varieties enumerated therein. 

Art. 6. — Plan and Management of Trellises and 
Arbors. 

In many flower gardens, trellises, arbors, and summer 
houses, may be introduced to a very good purpose for 
concealing offices and unseemly appendages. 

The form and disposal of these must greatly depend on 
the size and situation of the garden. 

In city gardens, trellises are mostly introduced on en- 
trances to the back offices, in which case, they are gener- 
ally covered with the Isabella grape, or other running 
vines ; as the Honeysuckle and Clematis. Such vines 
should always be pruned in the spring, and trained with 
the greatest care, to guide the summer shoots, which is 
often too much neglected, to the injury of the plants. 

The summer dressing of vines, is simply to thin them 
out where too much wood is growing, and which would 
cause a general weakness in the vine ; the next object is 
to train the young shoots, so that all vacant places are 
regularly covered. These remarks will be found appli- 
cable to all kinds of vines. 

In flower gardens attached to country residences, the 
trellis is mostly applied to arbors, which ought to be of a 
rustic nature, and any form most convenient ; formality 



ON LAYING OUT THE FLOWER GARDEN. 19 

in their structure, spoils the good effect they would other- 
wise produce. I think that most of my readers will 
agree that they should be of an easy and rural char- 
acter. 

Art. 7. — Forming and Planting the Rockery. 

The Rockery, is perhaps one of the best features of 
the flower garden and is particularly adapted to this cli- 
mate : its location depends on taste and circumstances. 
In most cases, it is placed in a very conspicuous situa- 
tion, as the front of the Green-house, principal entrances, 
and such like. By general observation, I have found that 
a plant thrives best on the rockery, when placed in a situa- 
tion where the principal part of it is partially shaded by 
shrubbery or trees. 

In extensive pleasure grounds the rockery has a good 
effect when placed distinct from the flower garden, and 
near a rustic arbor or ornamental bridge, or seat ; and 
if placed by the side of a retired walk, near the lawn or 
grass plot, it has an easy effect. The form and dimen- 
sions, may be so as to accommodate the location it is placed 
in : a long oval line, or almost any form pleases. 

The materials should be rough stones, and good rich 
earth ; the base to be laid with stones, and then a quan- 
tity of soil : this method may be pursued until the whole 
is completed. When finished, it should have as much as 
possible a natural appearance, and ridge-like shape. 

The plants best adapted for the rockery, are of the her- 
baceous kinds, as the Phlox, Penstemons and so on : all 
kinds of pretty native plants may also be pressed into 
the service of the rockery, as the Asters, Wood 
Anemones, Violets, and in fact all kinds of plants that 
will thrive on a rock should be planted indiscriminately, 



20 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

without order, so as to form a variety of flowering plants, 
in every month of the season. Plants growing in this 
manner, always assume their natural habits and are fine 
specimens, for young beginners in botany, and the junior 
members of families that are studying that delightful sci- 
ence : perhaps there is no greater inducement to its re- 
searches, than a fine collection of hardy native plants on 
the rockery ; especially if the beautiful tribe of ferns is to 
be studied, which will thrive well on rocks. 

Planting the rockery, is merely attended with inserting 
the plants between the stones, in the soil in their natural 
situations; either on the sunny or shady side: if the 
rockery is covered with leaves and pine or hemlock brush 
in the winter, the plants will flower much better in the 
spring. Let it be remembered, that most native plants in 
woods, are indulged by nature with a covering of leaves 
in the winter, and therefore the utility requires no further 
comment. 

Art. 8. — Ornamental Waters and Bridges. 

There is nothing that I am acquainted with, that gives 
more ease, and has so fine an effect in the ornamental 
and flower garden department, as ornamental wa- 
ters, in any form they can be introduced ; it gives a relief 
to the eye, from too much sameness of the living part of 
the created world ; and calls to mind, the utility that is 
derived from its presence as a medium conductor of 
food, to an organized kingdom. Independent of this, 
the cooling aspect it assumes, forms a fine feature in ru- 
ral scenery. 

No correct definition that I am acquainted with, can be 
given on the formation of ornamental water ; therefore 
it must, like many other things, depend entirely on the 



ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 21 

tasle of those who wish to introduce it. In many cases 
canals have a pleasing effect as on extensive places where 
they are so managed as to be lost to the eye of the obser- 
ver; in such cases the utility of canals is obvious to the 
intelligent observer. 



CHAPTER II. 

On the Nutriment of Plants. 



Art. 1. — Preliminary Remarks. 

Before I proceed to the culture of plants and flowers it 
will be proper to point out their different nutriments and 
stimulants and how they act on the vegetable sys- 
tem either in a congenial or injurious manner, which by 
a little observation will be found to be of a great impor- 
tance in the culture of all kinds of plants and flowers : — ■ 
to this I have also added some remarks on the develop- 
ment of the different parts of plants, as the seed, the bud, 
the root, the leaf, and the like which I consider essential 
to be known to the cultivator and I hope the subject will 
therefore be of some utility in this place. 

These plants like all the other bodies which are organ- 
ized, require an appropriate nutriment, for the germi- 
nation of seeds and the further development of vege- 
table economy. The most superficial observer is aware 
that plants derive their principal food from the soil and 
atmosphere, although not in equal proportions. They also 
require different compounds, according to the nature of 
the soil in which they naturally grow : thus the Cherry, 



22 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Peach and Nectarine., are found to grow on a light dry 
soil, while the pear and plum, require a deep loamy soil ; 
and aquatics grow altogether in water, as the Valisnera 
Spiralis, Water Lily, &c. : others, as the Ferns, live and 
flourish on the hardest rocks. 

Art. 2. — Food of Plants. 

The principal food of plants is found to be either 
vegetable or animal substances in a decomposed state, 
which enter into vegetables by aqueous solution, and 
as it were compose a new vegetable in an organized 
state. This food is principally absorbed by the roots 
of plants ; it is also inhaled by the leaves, its particles be- 
ing often raised to a considerable height by the winds. 

Earths, as Clay, Lime, Flints and Magnesia, are also 
absorbed by plants in solution ; each particular variety 
will be found to contain these earths in different propor- 
tions, according to the preponderance of the soil in which 
they grow : hence by calcination of corn stalks, flint is 
found in the ashes, and is perhaps one of the finest fin- 
ishers for steel. 

Plants inhaling chalky soils possess portions of lime, 
and by analysis each variety will be found to contain a 
portion of solid substance, which they most readily im- 
bibe by aqueous solution. 

Water. — Some authors are of opinion, that water is 
the sole food of plants, who found their authority on the 
fact, that many kinds, and particularly bulbs, vegetate 
and produce their blossoms in that fluid ; the reverse of 
this is however the case, as on calcination those plants 
are found to contain component parts, but the quantity of 
water necessary for different species is also very appar- 
ent; as some plants are found to thrive on the hardest 
Tocks, and must obtain their moisture principally from 



ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 23 

their leaves, to which it is first imparted from the 
atmosphere, whilst others are known to live wholly in 
water ; consequently must be of a different nature in their 
solids. 

Atmospheric Air. — " The atmosphere," says Stroud, 
" is composed of oxygen, carbonic acid, hydrogen and ni- 
trogen gases, in different proportions ; all these are to be 
found in vegetables, but they do not all seem to be vege- 
table food. 

" That oxygen is necessary to vegetation, numerous ex- 
periments have proved, and few have been found to sub- 
sist long without it, when in a growing state ; it is there- 
fore plain, that plants inhale a considerable quantity of 
the gas. 

"Carbonic Acid. — This is also beneficial to plants, par- 
ticularly to the root ; but if too large a quantity be ap- 
plied, it proves injurious or fatal. Hydrogen and nitro- 
gen are supposed to enter vegetables in combination with 
other substances, as when they are applied separately to 
growing plants, they refuse to inhale either of them, and 
death is the consequence. 

" From these facts, it appears that vegetables have a 
power of extracting from the atmosphere, those parts which 
contribute to their growth and health, as well as from the 
soil, and of refusing to admit the constituents of either." 
The above facts plainly show the utility and necessity 
of obtaining a proper air, requisite to the growth and 
health of the plant ; whether in a frame or Green-house, 
the necessity is the same. When unwholesome air is 
present, the plant suffers in proportion to the portion of 
improper gas : the most delicate parts, as the flower, or 
young fruit, being first affected, generally perishes : the 
next is the tender leaves and branches, and so in succes- 



24 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

sion ; but in some cases, as tender annuals, foul internal 
air destroys the plant in its infant state. 

To all plants in a growing state, a small quantity of 
external air should always be admitted, in order to rectify 
the internal air. This plan should be observed in the 
Green-house and other confined places. 

Art. 3. — Light. 

" Fairest of beings ! first created Light ! 

Prime cause of beauty! for, from thee alone, 

The sparkling gem, — the vegetable race, — 

The nobler worlds that live and breathe, their charms, 

The lovely hues peculiar to each tribe, — 

From thy unfading source of splendor, draw! 

In thy pure rays, with transport, I survey 

This firmament, and those her rolling worlds; 

Their magnitudes and motions." 

Light is one of the most requisite agents to the vege- 
table kingdom, as few vegetables (the Fungous excepted) 
are known to thrive and have their proper qualities with- 
out this stimulant. 

The most common observer may have occular demon- 
stration of this fact, by plants generally growing towards 
the light, in windows of houses and confined situations ; 
and as soon as the plant is reversed, the position is re- 
versed also. Leaves, flowers and fruits, are always more 
replete with their proper qualities, when in an exposed 
situation. This is observable in the tops of trees. It is 
generally understood by horticulturists, that no light as 
yet known artificially, will compensate for the absence of 
the sun. But, were I called upon to express my opinion 
on the subject, it would be this : that, as the sun is the 
sole agent of heat and light, its influence over those stim- 
ulants is predominant ; hence, artificial light is partial to 



ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 25 

more confined particles : furthermore, all artificial light 
which is caused by igniting any substance, contains a 
certain quantity of impure gas, which is evaporated, by 
ascending and mixing with the atmospheric air, and when 
condensed or confined, generally proves injurious, if not 
fatal, to the animal and vegetable kingdom : this is abun- 
dantly proved by the frequent instances we find recorded, 
of persons falling victims in consequence of burning char- 
coal in a confined room. 

That vegetables lose their proper qualities, when de- 
prived of the presence of light, is exemplified in the Cel- 
ery and Endive when blanched ; which is effected by ex- 
cluding them from the light, in which case the vegetable 
loses its natural qualities in a certain degree. So tena- 
cious of light, are most kinds of plants, that when de- 
prived of this stimulant, they begin to assume a yellow 
appearanee, and in time, when fully excluded, they turn 
to a clear white : it is also obvious that when they again 
receive a full share of stimulating influence, they re- 
sume their wonted appearance. 

I shall conclude this subject by impressing on the mind 
of my readers, the utility of light to plants generally, 
and especially in frames and green-houses, in the early 
part of the season, when every opportunity should be ta- 
ken to admit it. Let them also remember that in winter, 
owing to the short days, the due quantity of light cannot 
be given ; this should always be taken into consideration 
by the cultivator. 

Art. 4. — Heat . 
It is very evident to the most common observer, 
that a certain degree of heat is required by all plants to 
cause them to grow, in a healthy, vigorous state. As we 
3 



26 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

find that plants similarly situated, though natives, do 
not all vegetate at the same time : so also seeds require 
a different temperature of heat, to cause them to vegetate 
freely ; hence it will be seen that all kinds of native seeds 
vegetate early in the spring, and many exotics, as the Co- 
reopsis, Stock-gilli flower, Candy-tuft and the like : while 
the more tender kinds as the Balsam, Globe Amaranth 
and the like must be deferred to a warmer season. 
The same affinity is also observable in the circulation of 
sap in trees, as they are seen to put out their foliage and 
to commence in growth at different times in the same lo- 
cation. 

Heat may be considered under two heads namely, sun 
heat or natural, and artificial as that applied by fire, 
fermentation and the like. Sun heat may be in all cases 
considered as natural to plants, although in many cases 
where plants are placed in very moist situations they are 
drawn weak when it acts too powerfully on them after 
much ivet, and in such cases the leaves are seen to flag 
and shrivel up. Fire heat also when applied in too high 
a degree to plants, injures their constitution in a manner 
that they lose in a certain degree their natural strength 
or habit. Heat and moisture in all cases should be reg- 
ulated as much as possible to correspond to the natural 
habit of the plants that are to be cultivated. 

Art. 5. — Observations on the Roots of Plants. 

The roots of plants being intended by nature as chan- 
nels by which the principal food is absorbed and conveyed 
to the different parts, and finally forms a part of the plant, 
should be very familiar to the cultivator. 

By due observation it will be seen that the adaptation 
of plants to their proper soil is of the greatest importance, 



ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 27 

as plants placed in a soil uncongenial to them, seldom 
thrive well, owing to improper food being absorbed by 
their roots : and in many cases, roots have been known 
to travel out of their proper position in quest of a more 
proper nutriment. The circulation of the sap in roots is 
different in different kinds, as may be exemplified by 
plants and shrubs beginning to put forth their leaves at 
various periods, in the same location. This fact may be 
proved by any intelligent observer who will notice the 
commencement of vegetation in native plants and shrubs, 
in any given part of the country, under the same circum- 
stances and in the same location. 

These plants are all fastened in the earth by the root, 
and all exposed to the same temperature and natural 
changes of moisture in the place where they grow : 
but their time of vegetation or circulation of sap, is in 
accordance to their peculiar nature, which varies a 
month or more. As soon as the soil is sufficiently warm 
to answer their economy of circulation, the process 
takes place. 

Art. 6, — Observation on the Bud. 
The bud of plants is very aptly termed by the bot- 
anist, the hybemacula or winter quarters. It is formed 
in the summer, and properly fed and nourished by the 
descending sap. Buds may be considered under three 
definitions : first, buds which contain the rudiments and 
organization of fruits only, as the Cherry, Plum and 
Pear ; second, buds which contain the blossom and wood- 
buds under the same covering, as the Grape, and most 
trailing vines ; and thirdly, those which contain all the 
rudiments of a young plant in embryo, as the Cherry 
Plum and Pear, which are called wood-buds. 



28 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION, 

Nature has carefully protected those precious appenda- 
ges of plants, by covering them with a hard, scaly sub- 
stance outwardly, and a woolly substance inwardly, to 
protect the more tender parts. 

It will be found by a due observance of buds, that those 
which produce the fruit are the most delicate, and of 
course the most liable to injury by drought, cold and the 
many causes inimical to them; hence the Peach, and ma- 
ny other fruit trees require protection during the winter 
in the Northern States, particularly those that have been 
grown under glass, the buds of which are always more 
delicate than when the tree is wholly exposed. 

The blossom-bud being injured in any way, either by 
cold or other casualty detrimental to it, is generally des- 
troyed ; but the wood-bud on the same tree or shrub, is 
not, although exposed to the same injuries ; and in ma- 
ny cases, as the Grape Vine, the blossom-bud is blinded 
or destroyed by many causes detrimental to it, although 
the vine will perhaps break and grow in a very healthy 
manner. 

Art. 7. — Observations on the Leaf. 

The leaves of plants being the principal organs of res- 
piration, also contribute to their growth by their power of 
absorption ; they are of the greatest importance in this 
operation. The surrounding air, whether internal or ex- 
ternal, being absorbed by their agency, requires to be of 
a pure and wholesome nature, in order to keep them in 
a healthy, vigorous state. We are informed by botanists 
that the leaves of plants are synonymous with the lungs 
of animals, therefore, whatever disease is imbibed by them, 
enters into their system. 

When too much heat and moisture are applied in 



ON THE NUTRIMENT OF PLANTS. 29 

green-houses or frames, where plants are growing, it is 
imbibed by the leaf, and the consequence is, that the plant 
is elongated without its proper qualities, the leaves as- 
sume a feeble appearance, and are often totally destroyed, 
when the sun and air act on them sufficiently to nourish 
their more healthy parts. Leaves, when decaying, are 
most liable to breed many insects, as the Red Spider, 
Trip, and all other insects which are increased by de- 
composition ; therefore decaying and dead leaves should, 
in all cases, be taken from plants in a state of vegeta- 
tion. 

In conclusion to what has been said on trees and plants, 
it appears evident that the 7iative of all kinds of plants in 
the common idea, is the primitive, and is perpetual, and 
that every variety of improved quality, must originate 
from it, either by chance or luxuriant culture ; and it is 
at the same time clear, that by crossing the primitive or 
native plants of any country, of the same natural order, 
new varieties, of improved qualities, are produced, 
congenial to the country which has given birth to such 
varieties. From the very best of experiments and au- 
thority, it has been proved that in raising plants either 
from seed, cuttings, grafting, or any other mode of pro- 
pagation, those kinds that have been propagated in a 
hardy and natural manner, are the best qualified to with- 
stand the natural changes of the climate ; and that, al- 
though by nursing many tender plants, they are brought 
to great perfection with attentive culture, it cannot be re- 
commended to answer in a general way. 

Any intelligent observer will discover that plants of all 

kinds require to be so situated that the sun and air have, 

as much as possible, free access to every part of their 

leaves, fruit, and indeed, all parts of the plants ; and that 

3* 



30 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

any violence, either by severe pruning, disease, blights, 
unwholesome food or air that is present, acts on their sys- 
tem materially, either directly or indirectly. 



CHAPTER III. 

On the Propagation of Plants a 



Art. 1. — General Observations. 

To describe the many methods practised in propagating 
plants, would, far exceed my prescribed limits, and be 
altogether foreign to this little treatise, which is intended 
to condense, as much as possible, the most requisite sub- 
jects to be known by those who are desirous to become 
acquainted with the culture of the flower garden. The 
propagation of plants may be considered strictly belong- 
ing to the nursery department, and would require more 
space than the contents of this book to fully describe ; 
therefore, the subject has been confined to such methods 
as could be done with perfect ease by any person inter- 
ested in the subject. 

The plan, it will be perceived, is as much as possible 
condensed into regular methods — and those plants to be 
operated upon, are designated by their proper character in 
the Descriptive List of their respective departments, by 
which much space and repetition is in this place obviated. 

Of all the different processes in Horticulture, pro- 
pagation or increase is the most difficult, and con- 
sequently requires every attention of the operator. Cor- 



ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 31 

rectness must be, in all cases, attended to, and a neat and 
active performance of the subject acted upon must be duly 
regarded, as in amputution, insertion, and the like 
principles, that will be requisite in the different operations. 

Art. 2. — Propagation by Seed. 

The seed contains all the rudiments of the parent plant 
in embryo ; and expands its functionary qualities, and is 
developed into a new plant when the necessary stimulants 
and nutriments are present either in a natural or artificial 
form. The propagation of any plant or seed out of its 
natural climate, is attended, in all cases, by artificial 
means and is, therefore, under the laws of culture. 

Proper location for seed. — That most plants require a 
proper location is very apparent to the inquiring observer ; 
some are found to grow naturally and thrive in water, as 
the Water Lily ; others may be considered as amphibious, 
growing sometimes in and at others out of water, as the 
Water Plantain, Harrowhead, and the like ; to the reverse 
of this, we find some plants living and thriving on rocks 
and such locations, where it is very difficult to receive 
water or food from any other source than atmospheric air. 
Other plants, we find, are natives of rich and fertile val- 
leys ; and some are ornamentally intended, by nature, as a 
fringe to the woods, by way sides, and the like ; hence, a 
corresponding climate is always the best adapted and 
should be as near as possible obtained, to grow seeds and 
to propagate young plants to perfection. 

By little observation, it will be seen that many seeds per- 
ish in their natural soil and climate, by accidental causes, 
and in some cases not one of a thousand vegetates, while 
if assisted by being placed in a proper situation, two out 
of three would grow ; other seeds almost universally 
grow when they leave the plants in an accidental man- 



32 the flower garden companion. 

ner. This fact is in the first case exemplified in large 
seeds, as nuts, and the like. The Hickory and Chetsnut 
are seen to bear bushels of nuts or seed, which fall from 
the tree and are dispersed on their natural soil, but rare- 
ly vegetate, owing to their not being imbedded in the earth 
deep enough to receive a regular and proper nutriment to 
cause them to grow. Most native annual seeds vegetate 
freely, their covers being thin and of a small size, by 
which they are easily imbedded in the earth to a proper 
depth to cause vegetation to proceed. The principal 
point to be attended to, in making seeds vegetate, is that 
they are sown in a soil where they can easily take root, 
and in a depth corresponding to their size ; small seeds, 
as the Poppy and Mignonette, should scarcely be covered ; 
and larger, as the Balsam and Aster, may be covered 
deeper ; and so in proportion to their different size. In 
some cases frost destroys the vegetative principle of seed 
when it is not well ripened ; or placed in a warm, moist 
situation, where it begins to grow at an unnatural 
season. But I have never known seed of any kind 
destroyed by cold when perfectly dry and well ripen- 
ed. The necessary food and stimulants to cause seed to 
vegetate are heat, air and water. 

Art. 3. — Propagation by Roots. 
Increase of bulbous rooted plants. — Bulbous rooted plants 
are increased by taking the offsets or side bulbs from the 
parent plant, as the Hyacinth, Tulip, and the like. The 
young bulbs are to be taken from the parent, and treated 
in every way the same with this exception, they do not re- 
quire so much room to grow, as they will not flower the first 
season of planting. They must be separated from the pa- 
rent with the finger and thumb, and care should be taken 
not to bruise them in the operation. 



ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 33 

Some bulbs, as the Garlic and Shallot, form a truss of 
bulbs, from the centre of the plant, which is to be divided 
in order to form a new plant : others are increased from the 
tops, as the Tiger Lily ; such are termed cauline bulbs, 
or bulbs of the stalk ; they only require to be taken from, 
and treated as, the parent. 

Increase of tuberous rooted plants. — The tuberous 
rooted are exemplified in the Pceony and Dahlias; the 
root forms a crown, to which are connected many tubers, 
which are to be divided with a sharp knife, in such a 
manner, as to leave part of the crown, with one or more 
eyes or buds to each plant ; those parts are to be inserted 
in the ground, in the same manner and soil, and treated 
in the same way as the mother plant. 

Increase of fibrous rooted herbaceous 'plants. — Fibrous 
rooted herbaceous plants are increased by dividing the 
crown, or main root, as the Phlox, Rudbecca, and perennial 
Larkspur. This method may be applied to most hardy 
fibrous rooted plants, in the month of September or begin- 
ning of May. 

Art. 4. — Propagation by Running Vines and Creepers. 
The Potentella, Straivberry and Periwinkle are examples 
of running vines. Such plants are increased by taking off 
their joints where they have rooted, and planting in the 
same manner and soil as their parent plants, in the month 
of September : this process may be greatly facilitated by 
covering the joints with fine earth and keeping them moist 
previous to their rooting. 

Art. 5. — Propagation by Cuttings. 
Many kinds of hardy shrubs are increased by cut- 
ting from the young wood of deciduous plants, 



34 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

which is either performed in the fall or spring. 
The plants that are increased by this method, are the 
Altkea, or Rose of Sharon, S?ioivballs, Honey suckles, and 
most kinds of soft wooded plants. The manner of per- 
forming this work, is to prepare a piece of moist, shady 
ground, by digging and dressing the surface : when the 
ground is ready, the cuttings are to be prepared by 
cutting them one foot in length, and inserting them 
into the ground six inches deep ; the rows should 
be eighteen inches apart, and the cuttings eight inches 
from each other in the rows. When the cuttings 
are inserted, the ground must be pressed hard to them by 
the foot, and raked off in a neat manner. The after 
management, is merely to keep the ground clean about 
the plants during the summer ; and in the autumn they 
will be perfectly rooted. A moist northern aspect is the 
best location for this business. 

Art. 6. — Propagation by Layers. 
The increase of plants by layers, is performed 
on most kinds of hard wooded plants in the autumn 
or early in the spring, as the Rose and Double-flow- 
ering Almond. The manner of performing this 
business, is to dig and prepare the ground about the 
mother plant; the young shoots are then prepared, by 
bending them down to the ground, in order to find the 
proper length required to be inserted ; a sharp knife must 
be applied to the under part of the shoot at a joint, cut- 
ting, in a slanting manner upward, about half an inch 
in length : the part is then inserted in the soil, from two 
to three inches deep, in such a manner that the wound or 
cut is left open, and pressed perpendicularly into the 
ground : a hooked stick is then placed over the layer in 



ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 35 

order to keep it in a proper position. This should be done 
to every layer, to prevent the wound from uniting, being 
the part from whence the roots will be made for the young 
plant. 

Carnations, Pinks, and such like plants, are chiefly in- 
creased in this manner ; the proper season for laying 
these is August and September. Many others, as the Siveet 
William Pinks and their natural family, may be laid by 
simply taking out the centre of the plant, and placing a 
quantity of earth sufficient to cover the side shoots, 
which will form a circle of young plants in a few weeks. 

Art. 7. — Increase by Inoculation. 
Many trees and shrubs are increased by inoculation or 
budding; which is generally done to propagate such 
plants as do not thrive well by the methods heretofore 
described. 

Inoculation may be very successfully performed on 
almost every variety of Roses, as the White Moss, Unique, 
Tuscany, and all the finest varieties, on the wild kinds or 
those of a strong habit. 

The Double-Jloivering Apple, Double Cherry, and many 
ornamental trees, may also be inoculated on those of their 
natural family ; and so also with all trees and shrubs that 
have large full buds. The best time for performing this 
operation is when the buds that are to be taken off from the 
choice kind are well ripened and the bark or rind leaves 
the wood freely : this will generally be about the latter 
end of July or beginning of August. The plants in- 
tended to be inoculated should also be in a healty state ; 
and the bark should part freely from the wood, or the 
success will be doubtful ; and here it is necessary to state, 



36 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

that in many cases, inoculation is almost uselessly per- 
formed on trees and plants that are in an unhealthy con- 
dition ; the hud inserted must eventually die for want of 
proper sap and nutriment. 

Severe criticisms are often bestowed on gardeners, who 
adopt the plan of inoculation during the season, when the 
buds which are by them inserted die ; which in many 
cases cannot possibly be avoided, if the plants are sickly, 
and do not have their requisite food and nourishment. 
This is often the case with the Orange and Lemon, which 
are inoculated and, perhaps, exposed to the sun, without 
water for many days, in which case the buds must eventu- 
ally perish for want of nourishment. But I am now di- 
gressing, which I hope will be excused in this place, for 
without some remarks on the subject before me, it would 
be impossible to elucidate the most proper and necessary 
points. 

Act of Inoculation. — At the proper season, when the 
plants to be inoculated are in aright condition, prepare for 
the operation by collecting healthy shoots of the summer's 
growth, of such kinds as are intended to be increased ; 
when the shoots are taken from the trees, they are to be di- 
vested of their leaves, leaving a part of the forestalk to the 
length of half an inch ; they are then to be kept damp until 
they are inserted, which should be as soon as possible 
after being separated from the trees. 

There are many ways of inserting buds, but I shall 
confine myself to the most general and, I believe most 
successful method, which is performed by making an in- 
cision in the tree intended to be inoculated, in the form of 
a T, by first cutting through the rind, on the top, in a 
transverse manner, holding the knife between the fore 



ON THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 37 

finger and thumb : the bottom incision is made by draw- 
ing the point of the knife downward an inch ; the thin end 
of the haft is then to be applied to the top of the incision 
in order to part the rind from the wood, which is done by 
gently lifting the top and running the end of the haft 
downward to the end of the incision. The incision being 
made for the reception of the bud, the next thing 
to be done is to prepare the bud, by placing the 
the scion in the left hand, between the fore finger and 
and thumb, with the top end next to the thumb. The 
knife must then be taken in the right hand, and its heel 
placed half an inch below the bud intended to be taken 
off; it is then to be carefully drawn upwards half an inch 
above the bud, cutting it out with about half the wood and 
bark. This being done, the part is to be placed between 
the thumb and fore finger of the left hand, and the rind 
gently pressed back with the edge of the knife ; when 
the wood is to be pinched between the thumb and knife 
and divided from the rind with the bud, which is to be in- 
serted neatly in the incision of the tree, and bound with 
bass or other string. 



FART 2. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE FLOWER GARDEN, AND CULTURE 
OF PLANTS — WITH DESCRIPTIVE LISTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

On the Culture of Annuals and Biennials. 



Art. 1. — Annual Floivers. 

Annual plants are those of one year's duration 
only, and are renewed yearly by sowing the seed, as the 
Lady's slipper or Balsam, the China aster, Mignonette 
and the like. 

Annual Flowers do not, in many cases, receive that at- 
tention they really merit, which, I imagine, is chiefly ow- 
ing to the trouble of renewing them yearly from seed, and 
the proneness of most kinds to depreciate into single flow- 
ers and inferior qualities ; however, the easy and speedy 
manner of growing them, and the pretty effect they 
give to the flower borders, when mixed with other 
plants, claim for them a place in the flower garden. 
Their qualities, like all other flowers and plants, can be 
retained, and in many cases even improved by attentive 
management. I shall therefore proceed to their culture, 
and add a descriptive list of the best and most appropriate 
kinds for the flower garden. 



ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 39 

Art. 2. — Growing Annuals in Hot Beds, for Planting 
out early. 

To have annuals flower early, the seed should be sown 
on a moderate hot bed early in the spring, for the pur- 
pose of transplanting in the flower bed and borders ; for this 
purpose, prepare a hot bed in the beginning of March, in 
the following manner. Collect two good cart-loads of 
hot horse manure ; or if of equal parts of leaves col- 
lected from trees in the fall and horse manure, the bet- 
ter; shake it up and mix it well together, at different 
times, until it gets into a state of fermentation, which will 
be in a few days, when the bed may be made in a shel- 
tered situation ; if protected by a board fence, the better. 

Prepare the place for the bed by taking out one foot 
deep of soil, a foot wider at each side and the ends than 
the intended frame is in size. A two-light frame, four 
feet in width and six feet in length, will answer a good 
purpose ; but in a small garden a frame half the size, with 
half the portion of manure, will answer. 

Having the place prepared, make the bed by shaking 
the manure well together, in order to make it of an 
equal texture, beating it down with the back of the fork 
as you proceed — but never tread it with the feet, which 
is the cause of hot beds settling irregular. The bed being 
made, place the frame upon it immediately to draw up 
the heat, cover it well by night, and let it have the full 
influence of the sun by day, until the heat rises, when the 
bed may be earthed all over with about six inches of light, 
rich soil, which should be prepared previous to its being 
made :, half rotten leaf mould and half mellow loam will 
answ r er a good purpose for compost. 

When the bed is earthed, the frame may again be 
closed to draw the heat, and so soon as it rises, the seeds 



W THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

of all kinds of annuals may be sown in shallow drills, 
and lightly covered with fine earth; care must be taken 
in this part of the process, to give air sufficient by night 
and day to let off the steam that arises, in order that the 
young plants may not damp off or be too much drawn in 
a weak and slender manner, especially when the heat 
begins to rise after earthing the bed, which will be in a 
few days. When the plants have come up, two extremes 
must be guarded against, namely: to be very careful 
that the young plants are not injured by the chill of 
night, or drawn too much by being confined : the heat of 
the bed and the external air must be the criterion to go 
by: the internal air of the frame should be kept as near 
as possible to the moderate degree of fiftyfive, by Fah- 
renheit's scale. As the warm weather advances, the bed 
may have more air by day and night, and be treated in 
every manner so as to harden the plants as they grow in 
size, and finally the lights may be left off night and day 
previous to the plants being transplanted in the garden, 
which may be done with most kinds about the first of 
May, and the tender, the twentieth of May. But where 
annuals are wanted to be very early in flower, they may 
be much forwarded by transplanting them out from the 
seed bed into another frame an inch or two apart, and then 
transplanting them into the flower garden when the 
weather is sufficiently warm. 

Art. 3. — Sowing the Seed in the natural Ground. 

The seed of annual flowers may be sown when the earth 
will work well, which will be from the middle of April 
to the beginning of May; this is the best time for sowing 
most kinds, and if two or three sowings are made at dif- 
ferent times the better success may be expected. 



ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 41 

The method of sowing is simply to make a small circle, 
with a stick, in the form of an O, about eight or ten 
inches in diameter, from an eighth to half an inch in 
depth, in the vacant places among flowering plants. Great 
care must be taken to cover the seed very lightly with fine, 
light earth, as the young plants are often much injured in 
making their way through the surface. If the weather is 
very dry, the places where the seed are sown may be 
watered in order to make the seed vegetate more freely. 
"When the young plants are an inch or two high, they 
may be thinned to about two inches apart, and they may 
be in every way treated as other plants, according to their 
different habits. 

Art. 4. — Descriptive List of Annual Flowers-^ 
In giving a List of Annual Flowers I have divided them 
into three classes ; namely, tender, less tender, and hardy ; 
a classification which will at once give the cultivator 
some knowledge of the most proper time of sowing the 
different varieties and whether they require any protec- 
tion or not in any sudden change of weather that may 
occur after they are planted into the flower borders for 
flowering. I have omitted the time of flowering, which 
it would be an arduous task to give, in annual flowers, as 
they will flower earlier or later according to circumstan- 
stances and seasons. In regard to colors, it is also diffi- 
cult to give any distinctive character, as annual flowers of 
all kinds are very prone to depreciate and run out or sport 
from their variety of color : indeed the better way of giv- 
ing a list to every kind would be under the head of varie- 

* The list presented in this article, includes all the old and well 
known varieties. For a copious descriptive list of recently introduced 
annual flowers, see Appendix, Art. 1 . 
4# 



42 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



ties ; however, I shall in a certain degree follow the gen- 
eral rule of giving the proper colors, and merely point out 
the varieties. 

TENDER ANNUALS. 

Amaranthus tree, tricolor and tricolor. 

globe, purple, red, white and striped. 

coxcomb, com. large red, scarlet, yellow, &c. 

common dwarf of colors. 

spike flowered coxcombs, a variety. 
Browallia, spreading and upright, blue flowered. 
Convolvulus, scarlet, (ipomsea quamoclit) a climber. 
Egg plant, white, yellow, red, and prickly fruited. 
Ice plant, or diamond ficoidas, white and yellow flowered, 
Sensitive, or humble plant. 

LESS TENDER ANNUALS. 

Amaranthus, bloody leaved, with erect flowers, purple. 
Aster, China, double, white, red, purple, brown, striped, &c 
Basil, common sweet, red and purpled flowered. 
Chrysanthemum, double, white and yellow, plain and quilled. 
Convolvulus major, pink, purple, and deep purple. 
India, or Chinese pink, single and double, striped variously. 
Love lies bleeding. 

Marigold African, pale and deep yellow, plain and quilled. 
French, yellow and crimson striped, velvety, 
dwarf sorts of both African and French. 
Marcel of Peru, white, yellow, red, purple and variegated. 
Nasturtium, yellow and orange flower. 
Scabious, sometimes made an annual. 
Stock, com. ten week, red, scarlet, purple and white. 

dwarf French fine scarlet, and varieties. 
Sweet sultan, yellow, purple, red and white flowered. 
JCeranthemurn, or eternal flower, yellow, white, violet and purple. 
Zinnia, yellow flowered, and red, many varieties. 

HARDY ANNUALS. 

Adonis, pheasant's eye, or bird's eye, red and yellow. 
Alysson, sweet scented, white flowering. 
Candy tuft, white, red, crimson and purple. 
Caterpillar plant, yellow, varieties. 



ON THE CULTURE OF ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 43 

Catchfly, LobeVs red, purple and white. 
Clary, annual pink, purple and white topped. 
Convolvulus minor, blue, white and striped. 
Cyanus, or corn bottles, blue, red, purple, white and striped. 
Devil in a bush, or Lad}' in the Green. 
Hawkiveed, red, pale and deep yellow. 
Ketmia bladder, or flower of an hour, yellow. 
Larkspur, tall, branching and rocket, 
dwarf rocket, of varieties. 
Neapolitan, branched and spotted. 
Lavatera, or Cretan mallow, red, white and purple. 
Lupine, sweet scented, yellow flowered. 

common, blue, white, and varieties, 
giant blue, and rose colored. 
Mallow, curled leaved Syrian and Chinese, pink. 
Marigold, giant, or large common double. 

large cape, leafy, and naked stalked. 
French and African varieties. 
Mignonette, (trailing) or sweet scented reseda. 
Mulberry blight, or strawberry spinach, red fruit. 
Pea, sweet, purple, scarlet, white, pink and white or painted lady. 
Persicaria, oriental, red flowered. 
Poppy, tall, double purple, scarlet, carnation, &c. 
dwarf, or corn poppy, double, a variety, 
chelidonium, or horned scarlet, yellow. 
Snails, hedge hogs and horns, yellow. 
Snapdragon, annual Sicilian, white flowered. 
Stock, (maritime) dwarf annual, or Virginian. 
Sunflower, large double, pale and full yellow. 

dwarf double ditto. 
Venus's looking glass, blue, white and purple. 

naval wort, common and Portugal, white. 
Xeranthemum, or eternal flower, yellow. 

Art. 5. — Biennial Flowers. 
Biennials are those plants which flower the second 
year from the seed and then perish ; this definition, how- 
ever, is not in all cases correct, for in some instances plants 
of this denomination are known to flower for three years 
after being produced from the seed. But as the term is 
generally used and in most cases may be considered as a 



44 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

standard rule, I shall here retain it as the general head. 
The plants of this class are not numerous ; they are exem- 
plified in the Foxglove, Campanula grandiflora, the 
Wallflower, and the like — the method of culture is to 
sow the seed in the spring with the annual varieties, and 
let them remain in the beds or borders until they are of a 
proper size to be planted out in the places intended for 
their flowering, when they may receive the same culture 
as other plants growing by them.^ 

Canterbury bells, blue, purple and white flower. 

Carnation, a great variety. 

Clary, garden, a variety in leaf, purple. 

Honesty, satin flower, or moonwort, purple and white. 

Mullien, branching, phlomoide and sinuated, yellow. 

Penstemon, (a biennial perennial) violet and plain. 

Scabious, purple, black, red, white and striped, flower. 

Snapdragon, red, purple, white, yellow, and variegated. 

Sweet William, single and double, a variety. 

mule, or sweet william pink, double red. 

broad leaved, striped and red flower. 



CHAPTER II. 

On tlie Culture of Perennials. 



Art. 1. — Perennial Herbaceous Plants. 
Perennial herbaceous plants, are those which die down 
to the root yearly, the roots of which remain many years ; 

* For a descriptive list of tender biennials, see Appendix, Art. 2. 



ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS. 45 

they are exemplified in the Phlox, Golden rod, Asters, and 
many other kinds of native plants. 

There is no class of plants more deserving general cul- 
ture in the flower garden than perennials, which, when 
once introduced, require but trifling attention ; their 
increase is also of the most encouraging nature which in 
most varieties is simply the dividing of or parting the 
roots in the autumn or spring as directed under the head 
of propagation. Herbaceous plants may be divided into 
three classes, namely : bulbous, as the Tulip, Hyacinth, 
and most Lilies ; tuberous, as the Dahlia and Pceony ; and 
fibrous, as the Phlox and Perennial aster. These separate 
divisions may be again divided into hardy and tender, 
with reference to the different climates to which they 
belong : for instance in bulbs, Tulips and Hyacinths are 
hardy — the Jacobean lily and Feraria are tender. In 
tuberous roots, the Pceony is hardy and the Dahlia is ten- 
der ; and in fibrous, most kinds are hardy, although in 
many cases they are killed by the winter and wet saturat- 
ing their crowns, on which account it is necessary that 
they should be partially covered in the winter to guard 
them against being injured in that manner. 

In planting Herbaceous plants the principal object to 
be borne in mind is their height, color, and time of flow- 
ering, in order that they maybe so distributed in the beds 
as to form a pleasing variety, which can be effected by re- 
ferring to the Descriptive List subjoined hereto. 

In forming a Descriptive List I have been very particu- 
lar in selecting such kinds as seem the most adapted to 
the purpose, and I have also chosen rather an extensive 
list in consequence of their being worthy of more general 
notice than has been taken of that department. 



46 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Art. 2. — Descriptive List of Herbaceous Perennial 
Flowering Plants. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. Height 


. Time of flowerin: 


ACHILLEA. 


Sneezewort. 








montana 


mountain 






Aug. 


ACONITUM. 


Wolf's Bane. 








japonicum 


Japau 


Black 


6 


June, Aug. 


album 


white 


White 


4 


July, Aug. 


ACTiEA. 


Actjea. 








album 


■white 


White 


3 


April, June. 


AMSONIA. 


Amsonia. 








salicifolia 


Willow leaved 


Blue 


2 


May, June. 


latifolia 


broad leaved 


Blue 


2 


May, June. 


ANEMONE. 


Anemone. 








Pulsatilla 


pasque flower 


Violet 


1 


April, May. 


hepatica 


common hepatica Blue 


I 


April, May. 


ASCLEPIAS. 


Swallow Wort. 






tuberosa 


tuberous rooted 


Orange 


2 


July, Aug. 


incamata 


flesh colored 


Purple 


2 


July, Aug. 


decumbens 


decumbent 


Orange 


2 


July, Aug. 


ASTER. 


Stabwort. 








Novae Angliae 


New England 


Purple 


6 


Sept., Oct. 


amygdalinus 


almond leaved 


Purple 






BETONICA. 


Betony. 








officinalis 


wood 


Purple 


2 


July, Aug. 


CAMPANULA. 


Bell Flower. 








azurea 


azure 


Blue 


3 


July, Aug. 


versicolor 


various colored 


Striped 


4 


July, Sept. 


urticifolia 


nettle-leaved 


Purple 


3 


Aug. 


persicafolia, pi. 


peach-leaved 


White 


2 


June, July. 


CASSIA. 


Cassia. 








marilandica 


Maryland 


Yellow 


4 


Aug. 


CENTAUREA. 


Centaury. 








nigra 


Black Knapweed 


Purple 


2 


May, Aug. 


CLEMATIS. 


Virgin's Bowek 








integrifolia 


entire-leaved 


Blue 


2 


July, Aug. 


erecta 


upright 


White 


3 


July, Aug. 


alpina 


Alpine 


White 


3 


July, Aug. 


angustifolia 


narrow-leaved 


Blue 


2 


July, Aug. 



ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. H, 


sight. ' 


rime of flowering. 


COMMELINA. 

rirginica 


COMMELINA. 

Virginian 


Blue 


h 


July. 


CONVALLERIA. 

majalis 


Lily of the Va 
major 


.LLEY. 

White 


1 


July. 


COREOPSIS. 

grandiflora 
lanceolata 
auriculata 
tenuifolia 


Coreopsis. 
great flowering" 
lance-leaved 
ear-leaved 
fine-leaved 


Yellow 
Yellow 
Yellow 
Yellow 


2 
2 
2 
2 


July, Aug. 
July, Aug. 
July, Aug. 
July, Aug. 


CORONILLA. 

coronata 


Coronilla. 
large-headed 


Yellow 


2 in. 


June, July 


CYNOGLOSSUM. 

omphaloides 


Hound's Tongue. 
comfery leaved Blue 


1 


July, Aug. 


DELPHINIUM.- 

grandiflorum 
elatum 
chinense 
urceolatum 


Larkspur. 
great flowered 
common Bee 
Chinese 
hollow-leaved 


Blue 
Blue 
Blue 
Blue 


2 

6 
2 
2 


Sept. Oct. 
June, Sept. 
June. 
June, Sept. 


DICTAMNUS. 

rubra 

alba 


Fraxinella. 

red 

white 


Red 
White 


2 
2 


Aug. 
Aug. 


DRACOCEPHALUN. Dragon's He 
denticulatum Carolina 
variegatum variegated 
virginicum Virginian 
speciosum showy 


AD. 

Striped 
Purple 
Purple 
Pink 


1 
1 

h 

2 


Aug. Sept. 
Aug. 
Aug. 
July, Aug. 


EUPHORBIA. 


Spurge. 








Ceparissias 


Cyprus 


Purple 


2 


April, May. 


ERINGIUM. 

planum 


Eringo. 
flat-leaved 


L. Blue 


2 


July, Sept. 


GENTIANA. 


Gentian, 








verna 


spring 


Blue 


2 


May, June. 


GERANIUM. 

iberium 

sylvaticum 

angulosum 


Crane's Bill. 
Iberian 
wood 
angular 


Blue 

Purple 

Blue 


i 


June, Sept. 
May, June. 
May, June. 


HEPATICA. 

triloba 


Hepatica. 
Early Anemone 


Purple 


3 


April, May, 



48 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Coior. He 


ight. 


Time of flowe 


HELIANTHUS. 


Sun Flower. 








divaricatus 


divaricate 


Yellow 


6 


Aug., Oct. 


var. pleno 


double 


Yellow 


3 


Aug., Oct. 


giganthus 


gigantic 


Yellow 


10 


Aug., Oct. 


HESPERI8. 


Rocket. 








matronalis 


common 


Purple 


4 


July, Sept. 


HIBISCUS. 


Hibiscus. 








palustris 


marsh 


Pink 


4 


July, Sept. 


var. albus 


white 


White 


3 


July, Sept. 


militaris 


smooth 


Purple 


4 


July, Sept. 


LATHYRUS. 


Lathyrus. 








latifolius 


broad-leaved 


Pink 


6 


July, Sept. 


tuberosus 


tuberous 


Red 


2 


July, Aug. 


LIATRIS. 


LlATRIS. 








scariosa 


scarious cupped 


Purple 


3 


July, Aug. 


pilosa 


hairy-leaved 


Purple 


3 


July, Aug. 


spicata 


long-spiked 


Purple 


6 


Aug., Oct. 


LTNUM. 


Flax. 








perenne 


Perennial Flax 


Blue 


2 


July, Aug. 


LOBELIA. 


Lobelia. 








cardinalis 


Cardinal-flower 


Scarlet 


3 


May, Oct. 


siphilitica 


blue-cardinal 


Blue 


2 


May, Aug. 


splendens 


splendid 


Scarlet 


3 


May. 


fulgens 


fulgent 


Scarlet 


3 


May, Sept. 


LUPINUS. 


Lupine. 








perennis 


perennial 


Blue 


2 


May, July. 


polyphyllus 


many-leaved 


B. White 3 


May, July. 


LYCHNIS. 


Lychnis. 








chalcedonicus 


scarlet 


Scarlet 


3 


June, July. 


var. pleno 


double scarlet 


Scarlet 


3 


June, July. 


var. alba 


double white 


White 


3 


June, July. 


LYSIMACHIA. 


Loose tbife. 








verticilata 


whorled 


Yellow 


3 


July, Aug. 


ciliata 


ciliated 


Yellow 


3 


July, Aug. 


stricta 


upright 


Yellow 


3 


July, Aug. 


Nummularie 


Moneywort 


Yellow 


2 


July, Aug. 


LYTHRUM. 


Willow Herb. 








salicaria 


common 


Purple 


4 


Aug. 


verticilatum 


whorl leaved 


Yellow 


3 


July, Aug. 



ON THE CULTURE OP PERENNIALS. 



49 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. He 


ight. 


Time of flow< 


MONARDA. 


Mosabda. 








didyma 


Oswego tea 


Blue 


3 


July, Aug. 


clinopodia 


wild-basil-leaved P. white 


2 


July. 


purpurea 


crimson 


Purple 


3 


June, Aug. 


CENOTHERA. 


OENOTHERA. 








Fraseri 


Fraser's 


Yellow 


1 


May, Oct. 


PA PAVER. 


Poppy. 








orientale 


oriental 


Red 


3 


May, June. 


bracteatum 


bracted 


Red 


3 


May, June. 


PARDANTHUS. 


Pardanthus. 








chinensis 


Chinese 


Orange 


2 


June, July. 


PENTSTEMON. 


Pentstemon. 








campanulata 


bell-flowered 


L. purple 


2 


March, Oct. 


pubescens 


broad-leaved 


Purple 


2 


March, Oct. 


angustifolia 


narrow-leaved 


L. purple 


2 


July, Sept. 


PHLOX. 


Lychnidea. 








paniculata 


panic uled 


Pink 


3 


Aug. Sept. 


acuminata 


Lyons 


Red 


4 


July, Aug. 


shepherdii 


Sheperd's 








maculata 


spot-stalked 


Red 


4 


July, Aug. 


carnea 


flesh-colored 


Pink 


1 


Aug , Sept. 


sauveolens 


white-flowered 


White 


2 


July, Aug. 


tardifoJia 


late white (swee 


:t) White 


3 


Sept., Oct. 


pyramidata 


pyramidal 


Red 


4 


July, Aug. 


scabra 


rough-leaved 








subulata 


awl-leaved 


Flame 


h 


April, June, 


listoniana 


Liston 








stolonifera 


creeping 


Red 


2 


April, June, 


POTENTILLA. 


Ciniuefoil. 








formosa 


beautiful 


Red 


2 


May, Sept. 


atrosanguinea 


dark crimson 


Puce 


2 


May, Sept. 


RUDBECKIA. 


Rudbeckia. 








purpurea 


purple 


Purple 


4 


July, Aug. 


fulgida 


yellow 


Fellow 


2 


July, Aug. 


SAPONARIA. 


SoAPWORT. 








officinalis 


officinal 


White 


2 


July, Aug. 


SAXIFRAGA. 


Saxifrage. 








crassifolia 


thick-leaved 


Purple 


I 


May. 



50 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. He 


ighl 


Time of flowerin 


SMILAX. 
herbacea 


Smilax. 
herbaceous 


Green 


4 


July. 


SPIR^A. 

filipendula 
lobata 
ulmaria 
flora pleno 


Spirzea. 
dropwort 
pal mated 
elm-leaved 
double-white 


White 
Red 
White 
White 


3 

2 
3 
2 


June, Oct. 
July, Aug. 
May, June. 
May, June. 


STATICE. 
armenia 


Sea Lavender 


Pink 


1 


July, Aug. 


THALICTRUM. 

cornuti 


Meadow Rue. 
Canadian 


White 


3 


May, June. 


TRADESCANTIA. 

virginiea 
var. alba 
rosea 


Spiderwort. 
Virginian 
white 
rose-flowered 


Blue 

White 

Pink 


1 
1 
1 


May, Oct. 
May, Oct. 
May, Oct. 


TROLLIS. 

europaeus 


Globe Flower. 
European 


Yellow 


2 


May, June. 


VALERIANA, 
rubra 


Valerian. 
red 


Red 


3 


July, Aug. 


VERBASCUM. 
purpurea 


Mullen. 
purple 


Purple 


4 


July, Aug. 


VERONICA. 

gentianoides 

siberica 

hybrida 

spicata 

latifolia 

leucrium 


Speedwell. 

gentian-leaved 

Siberian 

Welsh 

spiked 

broad-leaved 

uigged-leaved 


Dark blue 2 
Blue 3 
Blue 2 
Blue 2 
W. blue 2 
L. blue 2 


May, June. 
July, Aug. 
July, Sept. 
July, Sept. 
May, June. 
June, Aug. 


VIOLA. 

odorata 
var. alba 
var. plena 
grand iflora 


Violet. 

sweet 

white-flowered 

double-white 

great-flowering 


Purple 
White 
White 
D. blue 


1 
h 
i 

h 


April, May. 
April, May. 
April, May. 
May, Aug. 


YUCCA. 

filamentosa 

gloriosa 


Adam's Needli 

thready 

superb 


White 
White 


3 
4 


Sept. 
Aug. 



ON THE CULTURE OF PERENNIALS. 



51 



Art. 3. — Descriptive List of Tuberous and Fleshy Rooted 
Perennial Plants. 
The tuberous and fleshy rooted perennial plants are 
exemplified in the Pceony, Iris, and Hemerocallis or Day 
lily. The culture is similar to the fibrous rooted herba- 
ceous kinds, although they generally thrive and flower 
better in a moist shaded situation than any other, and are 
particularly adapted to the facing of shrubberries and large 
flower beds. They are propagated by dividing the roots, 
which see at page 33. In giving a description of a few 
varieties of these plants I shall not divide them into parts, 
but give the list entire and designate them in the mar- 
gin. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. Height. 


Time of flowering. 


P^ONIA. 


P^EONY. 






Tuberous rooted. 


Whitlejii 


double-white' 


White 


2 


May, June. 


Humei 


double-crimson 


Red 


2 


May, June. 


fragrans 


rose-scented 


Red 


2 


May, June. 


tartarica 


Tartarian 


White 


2 


May, June. 


rosea 


rose-colored 


Pink 


2 


May, June. 


tenuifblia 


fine-leaved 


Red 


2 


May, June. 


paradoxa 


paradoxical 




2 


May, June. 


albiflora 


eatable-rooted 


White 


2 


May, June. 


officinalis 


common 


Red 


2 


May, June. 


HEMEROCALLIS. 


Day Lily. 






Fleshy rooted. 


Japonica 


white-flowered 


White 


I 


Aug., Sept. 


cserulea 


blue-flowered 


Blue 


1 


July, Aug. 


flava 


yellow 


Yellow 


2 


June, July. 


IRIS. 


Iris. 








prismatica 


New-Jersey 


Purple 


2 


May, June. 


versicolor 


various-colored 


Striped 


I 


May, June. 


pumila 


Dwarf 


Purple 


h 


April, May. 


siberica 


Siberian 


L. blue 


2 


May, June. 



52 THE FLOWEK GARDEN COMPANION. 

CHAPTER III. 

On the Culture of Shrubs and Vines* 



Art. 1. — Shrubs. 

Shrubs are either deciduous or evergreen ; the former 
are exemplified in the Lilac, Double-flowering almond, and 
Snowberry ; the latter, in the Kalmia or American lau- 
rel, and those plants that are always clothed with leaves, 
and hence the name evergreen. 

Shrubs may be considered as the lower order of trees ; 
they are a very useful class of plants for the flower gar- 
den, and are especially adapted to the embellishment 
of side entrances and many parts about town and coun- 
try residences, where herbaceous and dwarf flowering 
plants cannot be introduced to advantage. In the flower 
garden department they form a prominent feature ; they 
are planted in some cases in the centre of flower beds and 
borders, in other cases they form good facings to the 
larger kinds of trees that are planted as belts on the mar- 
gin of pleasure grounds, &c. 

There are few countries that possess a more pretty col- 
lection of native plants than the United States, and indeed 
in Europe the first consideration on laying out flower gar- 
dens and extensive grounds, is, to prepare a piece of 
ground purposely for the American flower garden; how- 
ever, the native shrubs and plants are much neglected in 
culture here, which I imagine is chiefly owing to their 
being considered too common, while those plants which 



ON THE CULTURE OF SHRUBS AND VINES. 53 

are brought from foreign countries are highly prized. 
Whatever may be the opinion of others, I cannot conceive 
that their being natives of this or that country can in any 
wise affect the real worth of flowers and plants, which 
in themselves are beautiful to every beholder, and are 
intended by nature as an embellishment to the vegetable. 
It is their finely woven texture and rich coloring that 
should engage our admiration, and not the country 
which has given birth to any particular variety. I hope 
therefore that in future the many pretty varieties of 
native shrubs and plants will find a place and be culti- 
vated in the shrubbery and flower garden where they can 
with every propriety be introduced to a good purpose- 
Indigenous or native plants, having qualities adapted to 
the country, will assume a most pleasing character and be 
much improved by culture. In planting shrubs, like her- 
baceous and all other kinds of plants, the general rule 
must be to place them as much as possible in their most 
appropriate situation. For instance the pretty dwarf kinds, 
as the Mezeron and Double- floiver in g almond, are the 
most appropriate for small flower beds and the facings of 
the shrubbery ; the taller kinds, as the Lilac, are gene- 
rally planted to cover unsightly objects as old boarded 
fences and the like. 

In giving a descriptive list of shrubs I have divided them 
into two classes, the Dxvarf and the Tall, and have given 
their height, color and time of flowering as near as possi- 
ble on a medium scale with reference to soils and loca- 
tions where they are generally to be found growing as 
ornamental plants. 



54 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Art. 2. — Descriptive List of Dwarf Hardy Shrubs. 

Botanical Name. English Name. Color. Height. Time of flowering. 

AMYGDALIS. Dbl. fl, Almond. 

pumila double -dwarf Red 3 May. 



AZALEA. 


American Honeysuckle, 






nudiflora 


naked -flowered 


Pink 


3 


May, June. 


viseosa 


viscid 


White 


3 


July, Aug. 


calendulaeea 


orange 


Orange 


4 


May, June. 


alba 


early white 


White 


3 


May, June. 


CALYCANTHUS. 


Sweet scentee 


Shrub. 






Soridus 


Carolina 


Purple 


5 


May, Aug. 


iasvigatus 


smooth-leaved 


Purple 


6 


May, July. 


CLETHRA. 


Clethra. 








alnifolia 


alder-leaved 


White 


5 


Aug., Oct. 


COLUTEA. 


Bladder Senna. 






arborescens 


common 


"Vellow 


6 


July, Aug. 


pocockii 


Pocock's 


Yellow 


6 


June, Aug. 


CORONILLA. 


CORONILLA. 








emeris 


Scorpion Senna 


Red 


3 


May, June. 


CORCHORUS. 


Japan Globe-] 


■"LOWER. 






japonicus 


Japan 


Yellow 


5 


July, Oct. 


DAPHNE. 


Daphne. 








Mezerum 


Mezeron 


Purple 


3 


April, May. 


var. album 


white 


White 


3 


April, May. 


HYDRANGEA. 


Hydrangea. 








quercifolia 


oak-leaved 


W. green 


3 


June, Sept. 


radiata 


ray-leaved 


White 


4 


July, Aug. 


HYPERICUM. 


St. Johns Wort 








kalniianum 


kalmia-leaved 


Yellow 


3 


July, Aug. 


frondosum 


green 


Yellow 


3 


July, Aug. 


PHILADELPHIUS 


. Syringa. 








coronaris 


common 


White 


6 


July, Aug. 


variegatus 


variegated 


White 


4 


July, Aug. 


grandiflorus 


large-flowered 


White 


3 


July, Aug. 


POTENTILLA. 


Shrubby Cinquefoil. 






fruticosa 


trifoil-leaved 


Yellow 


3 


July, Aug. 


PYRUS. 


Pyrus. 








japonica 


Japan 


Purple 


4 


April, May. 



ON THE CULTURE OF SHKUBS AND VINES. 



55 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. He: 


ighf. 


Time of flowering. 


RHODORA. 

canadensis 


Rhodoha. 
Canadian 


Purple 


3 


April, May. 


ROB1NIA. 


Robinia. 








hispida 


Rose acacia 


Pink 


6 


May, Sept. 


RIBES. 


Missouri Curb ant. 






aureum 


golden 


Yellow 


6 


April, June. 


RUBUS. 

odoratus 


Bramble. 
flowering 


Red 


6 


June, Aug. 


SPIR.EA. 

sorbifolia 

opulifolia 

hypercifolia 

chamaedrifolia 

trilobata 

laevigata 

salicifolia 


SPIR.EA. 

pinnated White 
Guelder-rose lv. White 
Italian May fl. White 
germander-leaved White 
three-lobed White 
smooth-leaved Red 
willow-leaved Pink 


4 
5 
6 
2 
3 
4 
5 


Aug. 

June, Aug. 
May, June. 
June, Aug. 
June. 

May, June. 
June, Aug. 


tomentosa 


tomentosa 


Pink 


5 


Aug. Sept. 


STAPHYLEA. 
trifoliata 


Bladder Nut. 
three-leaved 


White 


6 


May, Jun e. 


SYMPHORIA. 


St. Peters Wort. 






glomerata 
racemosa 
variegata 


common 

Snowberry 

variegated 


Pink 
Pink 


4 
3 
3 


Aug. Sept. 
July, Aug. 
July, Aug. 


SYRrNGA. 


Lilac. 








purpurea 
persica 
var. alba 


purple 

Persian 

white 


Purple 
Purple 
White 


8 
4 
4 


May, June. 
May, June. 
May, June. 



Art. 3. — Descriptive List of Tall Shrubs and Dwarf 
Ornamental Trees. 

[Those marked thus * are used for single ornamental objects on 
lawns, &c] 

English Name. Color. Height. Time of flowering. 

Horse Chestnut. 

scarlet Scarlet 10 June, July. 

10 June, July. 

10 June, July. 



Botanical Name. 

^SCULUS- 

*coccinea 

parviflora 

macrostachya 



small-flowered White 



56 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. Height 


. Time of flowering. 


AMORPHIA. 


Amorphia. 








fruticosa 


shrubby 


Purple 


10 


June, July. 


CRATAEGUS. 


HAWTHORN. 








pleno 


double 


White 


10 


June. 


*monogynia 


one-styled 


White 


10 


June. 


*coccinea 


scarlet-fruited 


White 


10 


June. 


EUONYMUS. 


Spindle Tree. 








*americanus 


Burning bush 


Pink 


10 


June> July. 


*fructu albo 


white-fruited 


White 


10 


June, July. 


*atropurpurea 


purple -fruited 


Purple 


10 


June, July. 


FAGUS. 


Beech. 








*purpurea 


purple-leaved 




15 




*cuprea 


copper-leaved 




IS 




FRAXINUS. 


Ash. 








*pendula 


weeping 




8 




HALISEA. 


Snowdrop Tree. 






tetraptera 


four-winged 


White 


6 


April, May. 


HIBISCUS. 


Hibiscus. 








syriacus 


althea frutex 


Purple 


8 


Aug. Sept. 


rubro pleno 


double red 


Dark red 


8 


July, Sept. 


albo pleno 


double white 


White 


8 


July, Aug. 


variegatus 


striped-leaved 


Striped 


8 


Aug. Sept. 


LIGUSTRUM. 


Privet. 








vulgare 


common 


White 


8 


June, July. 


variegatus 


striped-leaved 


White 


8 


June, July. 


SALIX. 


Willow. 








caprea 


great round-leaved 


12 




annularis 






12 




pentandria 


Bay-leaved 




12 




pendula 


weeping 




20 




SHEPERDIA. 


Buffalo Tree. 








eleaguoides 


silver-leaved 


White 


12 


April. 


SPARTIUM. 


Broom. 








scoparium 


common 


Yellow 


6 


May, June. 


SOPHORA. 


Sophora. 








japonica 


japonicum 








VIBURNUM. 


Viburnum. 








opulus 


Guelder rose 


White 


10 


May, June. 


oxycoccus 


cranberry-like 


White 


12 


July. 



ON THE CULTURE OF SHRUBS AND VINES, 57 

Art. 4. — Hardy Running Vines, for Covering Ar- 
bors, fyc. 

The Honeysuckle and Clematis are examples of run- 
ning vines that are useful for the covering of arbors, 
trellises, walls, and the like. Vines are readily propa- 
gated by layers and cuttings which see under the head of 
propagation, page 33. 

Spring pruning and dressing Vines. — All kinds of 
hardy vines may be pruned in a spring in regular man- 
ner, by cutting out all the dead branches and regulating 
the remainder in such a manner that they are at an equal 
distance apart, when they are to be nailed with shreds 
of woollen or leather, or tied in a neat regular manner 
with bass or other string. 

Summer pruning. — The summer pruning may be 
commenced so soon as the young shoots are grown six or 
seven inches, by thinning them out in such a manner that 
they are at an equal distance apart, and allowing room for 
their future growth. The young shoots should after- 
wards be regularly attended to during the summer in 
pruning off all superfluous wood and training the remain- 
der in a neat manner — not too thickly together, which is 
often the case and by which they are often much injured. 

Art. 5. — Descriptive List of Hardy Vines. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. Color. Height. 


Time of flowering. 


BIGNONIA. 


Trumpet Flower. 




radicans 


ash-leaved Orange 30 


July, Aug. 


major 


large-leaved Orange 30 


July, Aug. 


CLEMATIS. 


Virgin's Bower. 




virginica 


Virginian G. white 15 


June, Aug. 


flamula 


sweet-scented White 15 


July, Oct. 


verticilata 


American Purple 15 


May, June. 



58 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. Height. 


Time of flowering. 


GLYCINE. 


Glycine. 








frutescens 


shrubby 


Purple 


15 


June, Sept. 


Apios 


tuberous -rooted 


Pink 


12 


Aug. Sept. 


CAPRIOFOLIUM. 


Honeysuckle. 








Periclymenum 


Eng. woodbine 


Red 


18 


June, Sept. 


variegatum 


var. woodbine 


Red 


15 


June, July. 


sempervirens 


trumpet 


Scarlet 


19 


May, Aug. 


quercifolia 


oak-leaved 


Yellow 


20 


May, July. 


Fraseri 


Yellow- trumpet 


Yellow 


20 


May, July. 


lubrum 


red flowered 


Red 


15 


May, July. 



CHAPTER IV. 

On the Culture of the Rose. 



Art. 1. — Remarks. 
The garden rose is one of the most pretty ornaments 
of the flower garden of its season, besides having many- 
useful qualities for medicinal purposes, as lotions, con- 
serves, and the like. In perfumery, it is also used in 
many ways, as waters, odors, and essential oils ; which 
are extracted from it. The rose may be said to be unri- 
valled as a flower.when its almost endless varieties of color 
are taken into consideration, together with its fragrance 
and neat habit as a garden shrub : and many varieties are 
proved to be particularly adapted to the covering of trel- 
lises and arbors, as the running kinds of the Multiflora, 
Grivelle, and so on ; and to these may be added the China 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 59 

tea-scented, Noisette, and an innumerable tribe called the 
China rose; which, although they are considered as 
green-house plants, would endure the most severe win- 
ters in this climate, with a little protection, as directed 
under the proper head. 

To take up much space in this place on the culture of 
the rose, would be altogether useless. It may be briefly 
stated that like most shrubs and trees, it requires, a deep, 
rich soil to enable it to grow to perfection. Many va- 
rieties, as the Moss and so on, thrive well on a stiff clay 
bottom. It is proper to state here, that, in many cases, I 
have found that laying the young wood of roses yearly 
answered a good purpose ; particularly in the Red moss 
and those of a straggling habit : the rose being laid yearly, 
forms a neat compact stool of plants, which are always the 
most thrifty and flower the best. 

Propagation or increase. — The garden rose is gene- 
rally propagated by laying the young wood early in the 
spring.* To this may be added, dividing the young 
plants from the parent plant, and inoculating the 
finer varieties, as the Moss and others, into those of a 
strong habit. 

Before I take leave of the subject of the rose, I beg 
to offer a few remarks on the more general introduction 
of its culture into the flower garden. 

I know not of any denomination of flower gardens 
where the Rose should not find a prominent place. 
When seen around the farm-house or cottage situated 
on main roads, it enlivens the scenery of the country ; 
and it should always be found in the choice collections of 
the amateur. I am persuaded the fair sex will always 

* See " Propagation by layers," page 34. 



60 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

encourage its culture, for the sake of its essential waters 
and perfumes for the toilet, as well as its modest beauty ; 
to them, therefore, I need not say a word in commenda- 
tion of its valuable properties. To the apothecary too I 
need not recommend a flower which is daily recognized as 
of professional utility; and the buds, as a prominent 
feature in the bouquet, at once show its importance as an 
ornamental flower ; indeed, I know not of anything more 
beautiful in the vegetable kingdom, than a Red moss rose 
bud, about half expanded : its mossy calyx or covering, as 
a woven texture, is a perfect model of nature's production ; 
and the petals or flower leaves exhibit the most beauteous 
traces of the finest tinges of her pencil. 

In giving a descriptive list of roses, I have selected 
more numerously than I at first contemplated, in order to 
introduce them more generally in the flower garden de- 
partment. In my list it will be perceived that the time 
of flowering has been omitted, which in most garden 
roses happens in the months of June and July, with the 
exception of the Chinese varieties, which should, I think, 
be pressed into the service of the flower garden, as much 
as possible. While I am on the subject of the rose, it 
will be proper to say that the finer hardy kinds should be 
inoculated on the native sweetbriar four or five feet high 
for the purpose of forming tree roses, which are the pret- 
tiest ornaments of the season for planting on grass plots 
and in centres of flower beds as prominent features ; the 
severe winters, however, are an objection to this ; but in 
many cases trees of this kind are successfully cultivated 
by bearing in the inoculated part and protecting it with 
straw or anything to guard off the sudden changes of the 
winter. I hope in a few years to see this subject suc- 
cessfully and generally attended to. 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 



61 



Art. 2. — Descriptive List of Roses. 

[Those kinds which are thus designated * are the most proper for 
small collections of the different colors. M. F. indicates the monthly 
flowering ; in all parts of the Northern States, monthly roses require 
to be covered in the autumn to protect them during the winter, which 
see under article 12 of the chapter " On the Monthly Calendar." 
R, V. stands for running vines adapted for arbors and the like.] 



♦White Moss. 
♦White Provence. 
White of the seasons. 



Spineless Virgin. 
White Globe. 
Snowball. 



Belle Auguste. 
*Champney. m. f. 
Double Sweetbrier. 



LIGHT BLUSH. 

New Double Sweetbrier. 
Everblooming China, m 
Blush Belgic. 



DEEP BLUSH. 



Blush, 100 leaved. 
*De Meaux. 
♦Double Red Sweetbrier. 
Dutch Cluster. 



♦Imperial Blush. 
Pierson's Gigantic. 
♦Prolific. 
Striped Mundi. 



Bonaparte. 
♦Belle Aurora. 
♦Dwarf Dutch Cabbage 
♦Damask. 
Dwarf, 100 leaved. 
♦Early Ranunculus. 
♦Great Royal. 
♦Grand Monarque. 
Greville. h. v. 



LIGHT ROSE COLORED. 

Multiflora. 



Noir Fonce. 

♦Red Moss. 

Royal Cabbage. 

♦Ranunculus. 

♦St. Francis. 

♦Versailles. 

♦York and Lancaster. 



♦Agreeable Violet. 
Aurora Brilliant. 
Bishop. 
♦Brown's. 
Burgundy. 
♦Cabbage Provence. 
♦Dutch Cabbage. 



DARK ROSE COLORED. 

♦Grand Triumphant. 
♦Imperial Red. 
Maria Louisa. 
Noisette, m. f. 
♦Nigritiana. 
Ornament de Parade 
Queen. 



62 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



CRIMSON. 



* Belle Amiable. 
Burning Coal. 
*Crimson Velvet. 
*Chancellor, 
Kin" of Mexico. 



Carmine. 

^Carmine Brilliant. 
Favorite Purple. 



La Nigresse. 
*Royal Agathe. 
Red Mignon. 
*Superb Crimson. 
*Sceptre. 



CARMINE. 



*Royal Bouquet. 
Sabila noir. 



*Double Yellow, (Harrison's.) 
Yellow Sweetbrier. 



Amaranlhe. 

*Domini. 

Dark Violet. 

^Flora's Wreath. 

Giant. 

King of the Reds. 



Austrian, (Red and Yellow.) 
Belle Alliance. 



RED AND VIOLET. 



Nonesuch. 

*Negro. 

Ornament of the Reds. 

*Purple Violet. 

Shell. 



*Brunette Superb. 
Double Velvet. 
*Grand Pompadore. 
*Hibernia. 
^Imperial Blackest. 

*African. 
*Brussels. 
*George the Fourth. 
Iris Noir. 
*Ombre Superb. 



*Imperial Superb. 
*Negro Panacea. 
*Pluto. 
Proserpine. 
*Triumphant. 



VERY DARK. 



*Tuscany. 
*Infernal. 
*Bright Purple. 
Cherry. 



ON THE CULTURE OF FLORISTS' FLOWERS. 63 

CHAPTER V. 

On the Culture of Florist's Flowers. 



Art. 1. — The Double Dahlia. 

As the Dahlia is known in the flower garden depart- 
ment as a flower of the first order, any thing that can be 
said of its beauty, would be altogether superfluous here. 
I shall therefore give a cursory notice of its culture, and 
annex a descriptive list compiled from some of the best va- 
rieties of the present time. 

Increase. — The Dahlia is increased in the first instance, 
by seeds, from which most of the beautiful varieties now 
extant have been procured : the seeds should be sown 
early in April, in a pot of light, rich sandy soil and plung- 
ed into a hot bed. When the weather is sufficiently 
warm, (which is generally "in the middle of May,) the 
plants may be planted out in the place intended for their 
flowering. If a hot bed is not in readiness, the seed may 
be sown in the open grounds the first week in May, and 
planted out as above directed. 

Increase by roots. — This is effected by dividing them 
in March or April, or as soon as the eyes begin to push.^ 
The roots being divided, pot them in a rich sandy loam, 
and plunge the pots into bottom heat, either in a hot bed 
or pit ; or they may be placed in a green-house, or any 
convenient place, to forward them previous to planting 
them in their place for flowering, which may be perform- 

* See " Increase of tuberous roots," page 33. 



64 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

eel when the frost has disappeared, and the weather begins 
to be warm, which will be about the middle or latter end 
of May * 

Soil and location. — The Dahlia thrives best in a deep, 
rich, loamy soil, where its roots can strike deep, which is 
of great advantage to its flowering, in a dry hot climate 3 
its location should be such that the plants enjoy a free 
exposure to the sun arid air, and its adaptation should be 
so, that the height of the plant corresponds to its intended 
purpose, namely, the tallest kinds should be planted 
among the tall shrubs, in a small parterre, the dwarf 
kinds are most proper. 

To each plant a strong stake should be fixed, to tie the 
plant to, and guard it from storms and the like. 

In the autumn when the frost appears and kills the stalks, 
the roots are to be taken up, dried, and placed in boxes, 
with sand amongst them ; or they may be deposited in 
the green-house under the stage or convenient moist 
place until the spring. 

The roots of Dahlias being tender, the principal object 
is to keep the frost from them, in a moderately moist situa- 
tion, at a temperature some few degrees above freezing 
point. 

There are many instances of the Dahlia putting forth 
its flowers in June, while the same variety, in the same 
neighborhood, perhaps will not show a flower until Sep- 
tember : — this is principally owing to the culture, and, 
generally, those plants first planted, flower the earliest. 
When the object is to have a few fine flowers for show 
late in the fall, late planting is the best, and but few flow- 
ers should be allowed to be on the plant at the time ; all 

* The time will vary in different climates ; when the weather has 
settled warm, the business may be done with safety. 



ON THE CULTURE OF FLORISTS FLOWERS. 



65 



imperfect flowers should be taken from the plant as they 
appear, and the white and delicate mottled kinds should 
be shaded from the sun of mid-day. For an explanation 
of double flowers, colors and the like I refer the reader to 
the proper heads in the compendium. 

Art. 2. — Descriptive List of Double Dahlias. 
The plants described in the subjoined list, were se- 
lected in the flowering season last year from the best 
collections in the neighborhood of Boston ; and are kinds 
which produce fine flowers of their color and free bloom- 
ers. The list is more limited than might be expected, 
but it will be seen that the number of varieties will be 
sufficient for small collections. To the connoisseur it 
would be an arduous task to point out the many hundreds 
of varieties that are yearly introduced from seed from 
almost every part of the world, and which can only be 
designated by referring to numerous catalogues : the list 
here presented has therefore been chosen from the best 
known varieties adapted to the purpose of private collec- 
tions. I have omitted the time of flowering, which will 
eniirely depend on circumstances. 

Name. General Character. Height. 

WHITE. 

Bride of Abydos fine white from 4 to 5 ft. 

Harding's Bride white " 5 " 6 " 

King of Whites delicate paper white " 4 " 5 " 

Exemplar (Widnall's) white cupped petals 5 " 



Golden Sovereign (Headley's) rich gold yel. perfect bloomer 

Solomon deep yellow 

William Cobbett fine yellow 

Gloria mundi light yellow, very fine 

King of the Yellows fine yeJlow 

6* 



4 " 5 

4 " 5 

4 " 5 

4 " 5 

4 " 6 



66 



THE FLOWER GARBEN COMPANION. 



Name. 

Jackson's Rival 
Sulphurea elegans 



General Character. 

YELLOW. 

large yellow 
sulphur-colored 



Height. 



from 4 to 5 ft. 
« 4 " 5" 



PARTI-COLORED. 

Mary (Dodd's) fine wh. laced with rosy lilac " 3 

Mary Queen of Scots (Dodd's) clear wh. tipped with purple " 3 



Gem, or Royal Adelaide 

Miss Broadwood 

Lady of the Lake (Wells') 

Brown's Desdemona 

Angelina 

Conqueror of Europe 

Urania 

Village Maid 



white edged with rose 

wh. purple tips,with dark centre 



white and lilac " 5 " 6 

white edged with pink, " 4 " 5 

white edged with lilac " 4 " 5 

blush shaded with pink " 4 " 5 

pink with white centre " 4 " 6 

white edged with pink " 3 " 4 

King of Dahlias (Widnall's) pure white edged with rose pink 3 
Queen of Dahlias white edged with purple " 4 " 6 

Widnall's Rainbow purple shaded with crimson and red 5 



Beauty of Camber well 
Lilac Perfection 
Inwood's Ariel 
Unicorn (Gaines) 



rosy lilac " 4 " 6 " 

fine lilac, excellent form " 3 " 4 " 

mottled lilac, fine " 4 " 5 " 

rosy lilac " 4 " 5 " 



Adventure (Toward's) 
Clio (Widnall's) 
Dennisii 
Lord Liverpool 
British Queen 
Warminster Rival 
Barrett's Susannah 
Widnall's Juliet 



fine purple 4 

rich purple " 3 " 4 

fine ruby purple " 5 " 6 

fine dark purple " 5 " 6 

fine rosy purple " 3 " 4 

bright purple " 4 " 5 

fine purple with cupped petals" 4 -t 5 

fine light purple " 4 " $ 



Countess of Liverpool 
Douglas' Glory 
Rising Sun 
Daniel O'Connell 
Dennisii coccinea 



superb scarlet, fine form " 6 " 7 " 

fine scarlet 5 " 

large scarlet " 6 " 7 " 

fine scarlet " 5 " 6 " 

fine scarlet " 4 " 5 " 



shaded light crimson, 


fine 


4 ft. 


dark velvet crimson 




from 5 to G " 


superb rosy crimson 




» 4 " 6 " 


rosy crimson, fine 




" 4 " 6 " 


MAHOOH. 






fine cupped petals 




4 " 


large flower, very fine 




" 4 " 5 " 


HOSE- COLORED. 






bright rose 




" 3 " 4 " 


delicate pink 




" 5 " 6 " 



ON THE CULTURE OF FLORISTS' FLOWERS, 67 

Name. General Character. Height. 

CRIMSON. 

Mazeppa (Thorburn's) 
Metropolitan Perfection 
Perfection (Widnall's) 
Sir Henry Fletcher 



Granta (Widnall's) 
Coronet 



King Otho 
Zarah 

Art. 3. — Bulbous Rooted Plants. 

Under the head of " florists flowers," the Tulip, Hya- 
cinth and Ranunculus, with the Carnation and Pink, may 
be considered the most prominent. 

The above named varieties are known to be of value to 
the florist, and are often bought and sold for large sums 
of money ; they can never however be said to be of an 
equal value, as forming a certain class of plants in the 
mingled group of the flower garden ; the attention given 
to them in common with other flowers, brings them more 
in their primitive state than when they are under the cul- 
ture of the professional florist, whose object is always to 
cultivate in such a manner, as that the natural course of 
vegetation is wrought up to a high state of being, which 
cannot be possibly continued without the strictest atten- 
tion to the high order of culture, familiar to the connoisseur 
and florist. To point out the most proper manner of cul- 
tivating these flowers in beds by themselves, and fully 
to elucidate this intricate subject, describing the proper 
compost, &c, would require more space than the con- 
tents of this book. I shall therefore subjoin a list of 



68 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

the most appropriate varieties, to be planted indiscrimi- 
nately in the flower borders, and particularly recommend 
their more general culture, as flowers highly deserving a 
place in every flower garden, as the prettiest ornaments 
in the early part of the spring, v/hen few other flowers 
are to be found. 

Management of bulbous roots. — The management of 
bulbous rooted plants, is simply to plant the bulbs, such 
as Tulips, Hyacinths, and others, about the latter end of 
October, in the vacant places of borders. 

The best method that I am acquainted with, is to plant 
the roots in small clusters of six or eight together, four 
inches apart, by making a hole two or three inches deep, 
into which insert the bulb about an inch under the earth's 
surface ; and if a little sand is put into the hole, it will be 
of utility to the bulb, as it will keep it from rotting. This 
manner of planting may be applied to Hyacinths, Tulips, 
Narcissus, Crocus, and Snowdrops. When the leaves of 
bulbs decay, they should be taken from the ground, and 
moderately dried in the sun, and put into boxes with sand 
until autumn planting, when the young or side bulbs are 
to be taken from the parent as directed in the " increase 
of bulbous rooted plants," and planted separately from the 
flowering bulbs. 

Art. 4. — Descriptive List of Bulbous Rooted Plants. 
DOUBLE HYACINTHS. 

DARK BLUE. 

Cseruleus Imperials, purple, L'Importante. 

Due de Normandie. Mr Pitt, dark. 

Datamus, purple. Noir Veritable, black. 

L'Amitie, very dark. Quirinus, dark. 



ON THE CULTURE OF FLORISTS FLOWERS. 



69 



Lord Wellington. 
Hannibal. 



Roi de Noirs, dark. 
Trosbloem, Bouquet des Fleurs. 



Admiral de Ruyter. 

Belle Agathe,pa/e. 

Comte de St. Priest, pale. 

Globe Terrestre. 

Habit Brilliant. 

Joli Bouquet. 

La Gentillesse, pale. 



PORCELAIN AND PALE BLUE. 

Nouvelle Mode. 

Parmenio. 

Parel Boot, pale. 

Bouquet Constante. 

Celestina. 

Grand Roland, pale. 



Amarante Trone, red. 
Bouquet Tendre. 
Duchesse de Parma )v /ine pink 
Habit Nuptial, rosy. 
Illustre Pyramidale, red. 
La Beaute, Supreme, rosy. 
Madelaine, rosy. 



RED OR ROStf COLORED. 

Phenix, red and green. 
Rex Rubrorum. 
Waterloo, fine crimson. 
Madame Elizabeth. 
Gen. Moore, cramoisi. 
Mathilda, rosy. 



Gloria Florum. 
La Deesse. 



Flavo Superbe. 
Heroine. 



PURE WHITE. 

Triomph Blandina. 
Van de Kasteeien. 

WHITE, WITH A YELLOW EYE. 

Sceptre D'Or. 



WHITE, WITH RED AND ROSY EYE. 

A la Mode. Og, King of Bashan. 

America. Archduchesse. 

Gloria Florum Suprema. Virgo Vestalis. 

WHITE, WITH PURPLE EYE. 

Bijou des Amateurs. Passe Virgo. 

Conslantia Elizabeth. Pourpre Royale. 

Prins von Nassau de Weilburg. Sophie. 

Herman Langue. Miss Kitty. 



Gold of Ophir. 
Louis d'Or. 
Pure d'Or. 



YELLOW, WITH VARIOUS EYES. 

L'Or de Peru. 
Grand Alexandre. 



70 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



SINGLE HYACINTHS. 



Appius, very dark- 
Amicus, dark. 
Le Crepuscule, purple- 
L'Ombre, dark. 



BLUE. 

Madlle.de Vai\\iere,Jine purple- 
Pronk Jeweel, pale. 
Madlle. Zoutman, dark. 
Plutarchus, dark. 



RED ARD ROSY COLORED. 



Amiable Louise, rosy. 
Diademe de Flore. 
Anna Maria 

La Beaule Inexpressible. 
Lord Wellington, rosy. 
Pyramide Royale. 



Beaute Supreme. 

Countesse de Laval. 

Laborer. 

Mars. 

Rose Bouquet. 



Due de Cumberland. 
Grand Blanche Imperiale. 
Heroine. 

Pyramide Superbe. 
Premier Noble. 
Prince de Galitzin. 
Roi de Bashan. 
Vainqueur. 



Aurora d'Or. 
Isabelle. 
Sulpherina. 
Toison d'Or. 



Blue Grape. 
Purple Grape. 
White Grape. 



Flora Mundi. 

Fortunatus. 

Le Candeur. 

Hercules. 

Melpomene. 

Prince de Ligtenstein. 

Staatsraad. 

YELLOW. 

Crossus. 

Le Chasseur. 

Point de Jour. 



HYACINTHS, DIFFERENT VARIETIES. 



Large Purple Feathered. 
Large Nutmeg. 



TULIPS — EARLY. 



VARIOUS COLORS ON WHITE AND YELLOW GROUNDS. 

Amiable Royale. Keyser's Kroon. 

Cramoiside Baden. Drapeau Royale. 

Due Van Thol. The Monument. 

Due de Holstein. Waterloo- 



ON THE CULTURE OF FLORISTS' FLOWERS. 71 

BIZARRES. 

BROWN AND VARIOUS COLORS, ON YELLOW GROUNDS. 

Beaute Parfaite. Louis l'Effroi. 

Chapeau Transparente. Lord Mayor. 

Duchesse de Parma. Prince Ferdinand. 

Due de Richmond. Roi de Golconda. 

Gloria Mundi. Vice-roi Von Ireland. 
Gordianus. 

BYBLOEMS. 

WHITE GROUNDS WITH SHADES OF PURPLE. 

Due de Lancaster. Prince Mauritz. 

Grand Tamedlan. Queen of the Moors. 

Holmes' King. Tour de Salisbury. 

Incomparable Cyrus. Violet ma Favorite. 

Koning Von Prussien. Violet Washington. 

FINE CHERRY AND ROSE. 

WHITE GROUNDS AND ROSY SHADES. 

Cerise Superbe. Ornament de Pare. 

Cerise la Belle Forme. Ponceau Sanspareille. 

L'Arbe de Diana. Princesse de Austurie. 

La Couronne Imperiale. Queen of England. 

La Grande Rose Royale. Reine des Roses. 

La Ravisante, striped leaved. Rose Rebecca. 
Maria Stuart. 

FULL DOUBLE TULIPS. 

Admiral Kingsbergen, j?ne. Rex Rubrorum, fine crimson. 

Blanc Borde Pourpre. Yellow Rose, sweet scented- 

Couronne Royale. Bijoux Imperiale, jauneflamee. 

Couronne d'Or, jaune fiamee. Sophie, jauneflamee. 

Due Van Thol, very early. La Coeur de Portugal, tres belle. 

Duke of York, violet and yellow. Ne plus ultra. 
Paeony Gold, fine yellow and red. 

PARROT TULIPS. 

FRINGED EDGES ; MOST BRILLIANT CRIMSON AND YELLOW, WITH SHADES 
BRIGHT GREEN. 

Chevalier Vert. Margrave of Baden. 

Couleur de. Cafe, Yellow Sweet Florentine. 

Luteo Major. 



72 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

CROCUS. 

Cloth of Gold. Large White. 

Large Blue. Large Purple. 

Large Yellow. White Scotch. 

FRITILLARIES. 

Persian Fritillary, curious. Meleagris, checkered. 

GLADIOLUS. 

Alatus, bright orange. Floribunda. 

Byzantium, delicate purple. Fragrans Recurvus. 

Carneus,j!?es/i colored. Hirsutus Roseo. 

Cardinalis, superb scarlet. Psittacina, or Parrot like. 

LILIES. 

Aurantium, or Orange. Elegant Silver Striped. 

Bright Scarlet Pompone. Scarlet Chalcedonian. 

Large White. Lilium Superbum. 

Double White. Yellow Pompone. 

TURK'S CAP LILIES. 

Caligula, scarlet. Orange, La Parisienne. 

Crown of Tunis, p urple. Pure White. 

Double Violet Flamed. White Spotted. 

POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS. 

Bazelman Major. Grand Monarque de France. 

Belle Legioise. Luna, white and citron. 

Bouquet Triumphant, yellow. Morgenster, entirely white. 

Dageraad, yellow. Reine Blanche, white. 

Double Roman, sweet scented. Sultan, white and yellow. 
Glorieux, yellow. 

DOUBLE NARCISSUS. 

Albo Pleno Odorato, fragrant. Orange Phenix. 

Incomparable. Hundred Leaved. 

SINGLE NARCISSUS. 

Hoop Petticoat. Trumpet Major. 

Long Flowered. Poet, with crimsonnectary. 



ON THE CULTURE OF FLORISTS 5 FLOWERS. 73 

Art. 5. ■ — The Carnation. 

The Carnation is highly deserving a more general cul- 
ture than has been bestowed on it. It requires some 
care and attention in its winter management, by protect- 
ing it in frames, as it seldom thrives when exposed to the 
inclemency of the winter. 

The management I recommend, is to propagate the 
Carnation by layers, in August or September, imme- 
diately after they have done flowering ; and when the 
plants are well rooted, which will be in four weeks, they 
are to be put into moderate sized pots, in a compost of 
two thirds loam, and a portion of sand and rotten leaf 
mould : when this is done they may be placed where 
they are not too much shaded, nor receive too much influ- 
ence from the sun. The plants are to remain in this sit- 
uation until the first frost appears, when they are to be 
placed in a cold frame, well lined on the outside with 
stable manure ; in this situation during the winter, they 
must often be examined and divested of any dead leaves 
or filth they may collect; and air admitted every op- 
portunity in fine weather. When the winter is over, the 
plants may be plunged into the proper place for flowering, 
which should be an exposure where the sun has not full 
influence over them : they may again be layered at the 
proper time and the same culture continued every year. 

Name. Color. 

Cartwright's Rainbow. Purple Bizarre. 

Davey's Royal Sovereign. Scarlet Bizarre. 

Farrar's Huntsman. Scarlet Bizarre. 

Lee's Duke of Kent. Purple Bizarre . 

High Admiral. Scarlet Bizarre. 

Orson's Anticipation . Purple Flake. 

Smalley's Foxhunter. Scarlet Bizarre. 



74 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Name. 
Young's Earl Grey. 
Woodshead's Spitfire. 
Mount Etna. 
Taylor's Birmingham. 
Pride of the Isle. 



Color. 
Scarlet Bizarre. 
Crimson Bizarre. 
Scarlet Flake. 
Crimson Bizarre. 
Purple Flake. 



Art. 6. — The Pink. 

The Pink may be considered as a hardy plant, with 
the exception of a little covering for the winter. It is 
propagated as the Carnation, either by piping or layers. 

The best compost as recommended by Mr Miller who 
is much acquainted with the culture of Pinks, is as follows, 
for one barrow of fresh loam, 1-2 barrow of vegetable mould, 
1-8 of sharp sand, 1-8 of well pulverized clay, such as is 
used for bricks laid up for the winter. 





PURPLE 


LAGED MELLERS. 


General Washington. 


Highland Lad. 


Daniel Webster. 




Lafayette. 


Miss E. Wilkins. 




Roxbury Beauty. 


Miss M. Rock. 




General Warren. 


Conqueror. 








RED 


LACED PINKS. 


Cleopatra. 




Nimrod. 


Beauty. 




Lord Nelson. 


Blazing Comet. 




Trafalgar. 


Governor Everett. 




Midshipman. 


Cardinal. 








BLACK AND 'WHITE STAR PINKS. 


Defiance. 




Incomparable. 


Beauty of Flora. 




Independence. 


Eclipse. 




N. England Beauty, 




RED AND ' 


WHITE STAR PINKS. 


Fair Rosamond. 




Sir John. 


Reformer. 




Liberty. 


Fair Ellen. 




Jolly Tar. 


R. Wilkins. 







ON THE CULTURE OF FLORISTS' FLOWERS. 75 

Art. 7. — Polyanthus and Auricula. 

The Polyanthus and Auricula are pretty ornaments of 
the flower garden, when well cultivated : the manage- 
ment of both is similar to the Carnation, with the excep- 
tion of their increase, which is effected by dividing the 
roots in the fall of the year. The manner that I recom- 
mend for the culture of these plants is, that they be rais- 
ed in the first instance from seed, and the choice kinds be 
selected for culture. 

The time to sow the seed is early in the spring in a 
northern aspect : when the seed springs up, the young 
plants must be carefully attended to until the autumn, 
when they are to be potted in the same manner as is 
recommended for the Carnation ; and placed in frames as 
recommended for them ; early in the spring the plants may 
be turned out in the natural soil in a moderate aspect, 
where they will flower in fine perfection. 

POLYANTHUS. 

Yellow or English Primrose. 
Purple Primrose. 
Double Lilac. 
Double Crimson. 
Double White. 

POLYANTHUS OF VARIETIES. 

Double cupped. 
Yellow Cowlip. 
Yellow Oxlip. 

AURICULAS. 

Large purple — white centre. 

Purple — yellow centre. 

Fine purple — crimson border and centre. 

Pure Yellow. 



76 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

CHAPTER VI. 

On the Monthly Calendar. 



Art. 1. — Object of the Monthly Calendar. 
In giving a monthly calendar, the principal object is to 
lake a cursory review of the management of the flower 
garden, at the different seasons, which could not be, in any 
other way, done in so condensed a form, corresponding 
with the tenor of this book, which is as much as possible, 
to treat on every thing separately. The manner of pro- 
pagating most kinds of the plants adapted to the flow- 
er garden, has been separately treated on in Part 1 ; 
and it now remains to speak of their general culture, 
as the seasons pass on from spring to summer, autumn 
and winter. In commencing this subject, I shall begin 
with the year; for, although in the month of January 
nearly all horticultural operations are suspended, it is 
eustomary to allot that month a space in the calendar. 

Art. 2. — January. 
In this month, little can be done in the flower depart- 
ment, except in the green-house, and taking care of 
plants in rooms, which I shall notice in their separate 
places. However, if the weather proves changeable, 
which is often the case, the coverings of the plants are 
liable to be misplaced by the wind and other causes that 
may happen ; therefore it is proper to look ever the gar- 
den, to see that all is in due order, particularly if Car- 
'nations and such like are covered. 



ON THE BIONTHLY CALENDAR. 77 

Plants in frames also, as the Carnation, Auricula, Po- 
lya?ithus, and the like, maybe looked over and kept in or- 
der, by taking away any dead leaves or filth that may be 
collected in them ; and if any depredations have been 
made by mice, rats, or other vermin, they should if possi- 
ble be destroyed. If the weather proves mild, which is 
sometimes the case in this month, the glasses may be ta- 
ken off in the middle of the day, and closed at night ; 
care must be taken that they are not left open of a 
night, and the plants frozen, which is often the case. 

Art. 3. — February. 
In this month, like the preceding, little can be done to 
advantage in the garden, except where any forest trees 
are to be pruned or cut down, which may be done to a 
good purpose and much forward the business of the flow- 
er garden in the coming spring ; the frames should be 
attended to as previously directed, and the garden should 
often be looked over to see that the covering and the like 
is in due order. 

Art. 4. — March,. 
This month, if mild, begins the principal business of 
the flower garden. A hot bed may be prepared as before 
directed, (page 39,) for sowing annual flower seeds ; bien- 
nials and perennials, that are intended for early planting, 
may also be forwarded by this method. The plants in 
frames may have more air given them, and every 
opportunity should be taken to forward them as much as 
possible for the planting out in the ground. The uncov- 
ering of many plants may be seen to near the close 
of the month, and all kinds of hardy shrubs and plants 
may be pruned and tied or nailed in a proper manner, 
7* 



78 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

either to fences, walls o>r trellises, to which they are in- 
tended to be trained. 

The latter part of this month, all dead stalks may be 
neatly cut from the plants and cleared from the garden, 
and the grass plot may be raked and divested of all the 
old dead grass, and any thing that may prevent the 
young grass from coming up in a regular manner ; any 
parts of the walks that have been washed either by rain 
or snow water, should now be repaired and put into 
good order previous to the spring dressing. The pruning 
of trees and shrubs may be performed by simply, in the 
first case, divesting them of all dead wood^ and thinning 
out all weak, superfluous branches, and those which cross 
one another. In the act of pruning, a few simple rules 
are to be regarded, viz : that all wounds or amputations 
be cut with sharp instruments, and left in a clean, slant- 
ing manner, that the wet may not collect on and rot the 
wound ; the next thing is, that the plants be regulated in 
a manner that the sun and air have free access to every 
part of them ; and thirdly, that their natural form and 
habit be as much as possible retained. In cases where 
plants are grown into a straggling habit, they may be 
headed in, to form a new head or crown. These remarks 
will be found to answer most purposes, if correctly at- 
tended to. 

Art. 5. — April. 

April is the busiest month in the flower garden- 
As soon as the weather will admit, and the ground 
is dry, the pruning and cleansing of the plants and the 
garden should be finished. 

The borders and flower beds may now be dug, and the 
box or other edgings mended or replanted, and every 



ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 70 

thing - must be done preparatory to transplanting per- 
ennials and sowing annuals. 

In digging borders or flower beds, care must be taken 
that they are so dug as to lay rather the highest in the 
middle, by which the appearance will have a more pleas- 
ing effect and the water will drain from them in a regu- 
lar manner. It must be recollected that wherever water 
is allowed to lay long on any plants, (except aquatics,) 
they are much injured thereby. The borders being 
dug, the places required to be planted either with shrubs 
or herbaceous plants, may then be planted after the man- 
ner described under the heads of planting and des- 
criptive lists, where every information will be found rela- 
tive to their proper position, and the manner of performing 
the work. When the borders are dug and planted, the grass 
plot, if any, and walks must be repaired and put in pro- 
per order. 

If the latter part of the month proves fine, some seeds 
of hardy annuals and perennials may be sown, and the 
layering of plants, dividing roots, putting out cuttings, 
and the like, may be performed as directed under the 
head of " Propagation." 

Art. 6. — May. 
Supposing the work be done as directed in April or 
the beginning of this month, the principal thing to be 
attended to is to sow all kinds of annual, biennial and 
perennial seeds, at three sowings this month : the hardy 
kinds at the beginning, the half hardy at the middle, and 
the tender at the end of the month. The beginning of 
the month box edgings may be laid, and all kinds of 
edgings, as Moss pink, Iris, Stone-crop, and the like, 
may be neatly repaired, and every thing completely 



SO THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

finished for the spring dressing. If the trees and shrubs 
have not been pruned and trained (which see under the 
proper head) as directed in April, no time should be lost 
in performing that work the early part of this month. 

The middle or latter part of the month, all kinds of 
green-house plants may be plunged in the borders or 
flower beds as directed under their proper head. The 
Dahlia, Jacobean Lily, and all kinds of tender rooted 
plants, either tuberous or fibrous, may also be planted the 
latter part of the month. 

Tender and hardy annual flowers may now be trans- 
planted from the frames ; the hardy at the beginning, and 
tender at the end of the month. 

All kinds of flowers that are of slender growth should 
now be supported by tying them neatly to sticks ; and 
every attention should be paid to the health of the 
plants and neatness of the garden. 

Art. 7. — June. 
The principal business to be done in this month is 
hoeing and keeping the flower beds in order, often mow- 
ing the grass plot, and cleaning walks ; indeed every 
department should at this time meet the most strict at- 
tention. And here let me remind the reader that one of 
the principal things to be attended to in flower-gardening, 
is to remove all weeds in their infant state ; for at this 
stage they can be easily destroyed, but if allowed to grow 
and get strongly rooted in the ground, they exhaust the 
soil, as well as have a bad appearance. Hoeing, rak- 
ing and destroying weeds are operations so simple and 
common as to render any directions on the subject super- 
fluous ; but its simplicity does not prevent it from being 
a most important subject. To avoid irksome minuteness, 



ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 81 

I will merely remark that the most strict attention should 
be paid to keeping every part of the garden at all times 
neat and cleanly ; and having once called attention to 
this point, I may not recur to it hereafter. 

Particular attention must be paid at this time to the 
tying up all the slender plants to stakes or sticks ; as the 
Dahlia and plants of a rapid growth. For this purpose 
neat sticks or stakes should be prepared, of a size in pro- 
portion to the height of the plant ; for the Dahlia, sticks 
of about four or six feet planed off in a tapering manner, 
either round or square, and painted green, answer a good 
purpose ; in the operation of tying up the Dahlia, care must 
be taken that the plant is not tied too tight, which is of- 
ten the case and the consequence of which is, that the 
plant is nearly cut asunder and the first storm that comes 
blows it down. In tying up plants care must also be ta- 
ken that they are not too much bundled together, which 
js not only unsightly to the eye, but is often the cause 
of the centre part of the plant being in a measure rotted, 
owing to the leaves being too much confined and not re- 
ceiving the influence of the atmospheric air. 

Attention must now also be paid to the training of vines 
asHoneysuckle, Clematis, and all such plants as are train- 
ed to trellises, arbors, &c. 

Annual flower seeds may now also be sown for late 
flowering ; and in moist weather any bare places in the 
borders may be planted and filled up with annuals to make 
every part have a regular and sightly appearance. 

Art. 8. — July. 
Every favorable opportunity should be taken in this 
month to keep down weeds as they appear, and to tie up 
any plants that are of a slender habit. The Dahlias 



82 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



should be carefully looked over and tied to their stakes 
to prevent them from being broken down by rains or hea- 
vy storms. Every attention must now also be paid to an- 
nuals by thinning out those that are growing thickly 
together, which in their infant state causes a weakness in 
their habitual constitution, and they rarely assume their 
wonted vigor in the flowering season ; and the consequence 
is, that they never flower in perfection. — Any kind of 
bulbous roots, as Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses, and the 
like, that are to be taken up and replanted in the autumn, 
may be removed so soon as their leaves are ripe and de- 
caying : for the method of performing this work I refer 
the reader to page 68. 

It will be proper here to observe that there is an ex- 
ception to the rule of taking up bulbous rooted plants in 
most kinds of Lilies, as the White Lily, Orange Lily 
and the like. Indeed, in many cases they are much in- 
jured by being often removed ; the White Lily, seldom 
flowers well, if at all the first year of its removal ; and 
many other kinds flower but feebly. The best method 
that I can recommend in the culture of Lilies is, to thin 
out the roots in such a manner yearly that the large flow- 
ering bulbs are three or four inches apart : the taking away 
the offsets and small bulbs in this manner gives those left 
to flower a chance to obtain the different nutriments and 
food in the grounds in which they are growing. 

Great care must be taken this month of any green-house 
plants whether plunged in the ground or otherwise, by 
watering them moderately so that the earth they are grow- 
ing in may be kept moderately moist. This is the most 
critical month in the summer for many kinds of green- 
house plants, particularly the Erica and Camellia, which 
are often so much injured that they never recover, owing 



ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 83 

to the earth in the pots being allowed to be dried to 
dust. The consequence is that the roots of the plants 
Perish by drought and the leaves turn yellow and fall off. 
Insects also attack the plants, which, being in a weakly 
state, by degrees dwindle and die. In all kinds of tender 
annuals and herbaceous plants which are perishing for 
want of water, attention may be paid to the watering at the 
roots moderately of an evening; but care must be taken 
not to overwater at this season, which will be unnatu- 
ral and greatly injure them. Moderation must be the 
guide in this process as in all others of the same 
nature. 

Art. 9. — August. 
Little is required to be done in this month besides keep- 
ing the flower beds and garden clean, tying up plants, 
cleaning walks, &c, of which I have already spoken. If 
any bulbous rooted plants, that are to be taken up still re- 
main in the ground, their removal should no longer be de- 
ferred. The inoculation to be done on Roses or any choice 
plants should be attended to near the end of the month or 
as soon as the plants are in a proper condition to be oper- 
ated upon ; which see under the head of Inoculation, page 
36. Any kinds of annual or perennial plants that have 
done flowering and are encumbering their neighbors may 
also be taken away or cut down, and the garden should 
at this time go through a regular hoeing, raking, and 
cleaning, which is very important at this season, and if 
neglected is many times the cause of much labor by 
weeds over-growing and spoiling the autumnal flowering 
plants. 



84 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Art. 10. — September. 
The beginning of this month all kinds of green-house 
plants intended to be taken up and potted, either for the 
green-house or rooms, should be attended to. For the 
manner of performing the potting of plants I refer the 
reader to that chapter " On the Management of Green- 
house Plants." — All kinds of annual and biennial flowers 
may now also be potted and placed in a situation where 
they can be partially shaded in order to encourage their 
rooting freely in the pots. For a descriptive list of the 
best kinds for this purpose I refer the reader to Articles 1 
and 2 in the Appendix. Indeed any kind of plants in- 
tended to be taken into winter quarters should not be de- 
layed after this time ; they are rarely well rooted and pre- 
pared for the sudden change. 

There are but few things to be done in the flower gar- 
den that require more practical knowledge and are 
less understood than the taking from the ground and pre- 
paring plants for winter quarters. In this I would wish to 
be understood as referring to all kinds of annuals, bien- 
nials and perennials. In the first place it is an act of vi- 
olence on nature to remove plants from the soil when they 
are established and in a vigorous growth, to a small pot of 
earth, perhaps of quite a different compost from that in 
which they have been growing ; besides they have in most 
cases their principal roots cut asunder, which have extend- 
ed several feet in search of a proper nutriment ; conse- 
quently the natural channels that extract food for the 
plant are severed from it and its vigor is more exhausted 
than nourished ; the plant being thus enfeebled eventu- 
ally loses a portion of its leaves, in proportion to the loss 
of such members ; and this again weakens it, owing to its 
losing in a certain degree its powers of imbibing the 



ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. OO 

moisture of the atmospheric air. In this case the plant 
has generally to undergo a change in habit and growth 
at a time when it is least prepared for it: namely, 
before the approach of winter, when it requires to be in 
full vigor, which can only be regained by the most at- 
tentive and natural management. 

Taking the plants from the ground and potting them. 
— If possible an opportunity should be taken to take the 
plants from the ground or pot them, on a moist, humid 
day after a shower of rain. They should be taken care- 
fully from the ground, and their fibrous roots as much as 
possible retained. Being taken from the ground they 
should be immediately potted, and well watered and placed 
in a situation where they are partially shaded and have 
a free circulation of air : it will be the better for them if 
they be placed under trees where the direct rays of the 
sun are withdrawn from them and a free circulation of 
air can act on them. In this situation the plants must be 
regularly attended to, by keeping the earth moderately 
moist in order that they may root freely in the new pots. 
All dead leaves should be taken from them as they 
appear, being often very injurious to plants potted in this 
way ; for the decaying leaves being in a state of putrefac- 
tion, create an impure air, which is imbibed by the living 
leaves and sickens the plants. 

"When the plants are w T ell rooted in the pots and begin 
to recover their strength, they are to be gradually ex- 
posed to the sun and their natural location, in order that 
they may recover their natural habit previous to their re- 
moval to winter quarters. 

In this month the principal business in the flower gar- 
den is keeping it clean from weeds, gathering all kinds 
of flower seeds as they ripen, (which see in the Appendix, 
8 



86 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Art. 3,) protecting plants of slender habits, training and 
tying vines to trellises ; this is the proper time to divide 
and propagate many kinds of hardy herbaceous plants 
where wanted ; and if any alterations or new arrange- 
ments are to be made in the flower garden, they should be 
immediately attended to. 

Art. 11. — October. 

The principal thing to be attended to in the flower gar- 
den this month is, to give particular attention to the 
management of the green-house plants that are not taken 
into the green-house or rooms. Green-house plants 
should be protected at night after the first of the month 
in most parts of the Northern States: for the first frost 
which is always to be expected at this time, will much 
injure them if exposed, besides spoiling their appearance. 
Any kinds of hardy bulbs, as Tulips, Hyacinths, Lilies, 
and the like, may be planted from the middle to the end of 
the month, as directed under their proper head, page 68. 

The Carnation, Polyanthus, Daisy, and any kind of 
half hardy plants in pots, that are intended to be protected 
through the winter in frames, should be placed in them 
and covered on cold frosty nights. 

Every attention must be paid to the Dahlia and tender 
rooted plants that are injured by the early frost. It is a 
good method to protect them by laying some long manure 
or litter about the roots to guard them from being in- 
jured by the first frost. 

Art. 12. — November. 
Supposing the green-house plants to be housed, their 
management will be found under the proper head of the 
Green-house department ; but the half hardy plants in 



ON THE MONTHLY CALENDAR. 87 

the frames will require to be attended 1o by giving air, 
covering on cold nights and the like, as recommended 
under the head of " Frames." Great attention must 
be paid to the Dahlia, if not taken from the ground, that 
it be not frosted at the root. Indeed, it should always be 
the rule, even in mild autumns, to take the roots from 
the ground the first of this month. But if left after that 
time, a double covering should be applied. Little will re- 
quire to be done in the garden except to clear away any 
kind of dead leaves or decaying plants which appear 
to be a nuisance ; and everything may be prepared for 
the winter. 

All kinds of hardy bulbs that were not planted the latter 
part of October, may be planted by the middle of this 
month, and if any new plantations either in the shrub- 
bery or flower garden are to be made in the fall, they 
should not be omitted any longer than the middle of the 
month. 

Covering Plants and Protecting Shrubs. — About the 
20th of the month or as soon as the winter begins to close, 
which will vary from 15 to 50 days in the different parts 
of the States for which this work is intended to be adapted, 
will be a proper time to protect all kinds of herbaceous 
plants by covering them on their crowns with long ma- 
nure, or if leaves can be obtained they will answer a bet- 
ter purpose. Tender kinds of shrubs as the Double Hi- 
biscus, Magnolia purpurea, &c. may be protected by ty- 
ing up the branches in a neat manner and covering them 
over with straw, and tying it neatly around them. 

Art. 13. — December. 
Little can be done in the garden this month except it is 
a very mild season, when the cohering plants and the like 



S3 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

may be done as directed in November. For the manage- 
ment of the Green-house and Frames I refer the reader to 
their proper heads. 



CHAPTER VII. 

On the Variations and Diseases ©f Plants. 



Art. I. — Variations of Plaats. 
In order to diversify the subjects of the " Com- 
panion", I have introduced several that are not altogether 
pertaining to culture ; but which may be interesting to 
ihose who are desirous to be made acquainted with the 
different qualities and variations of plants, as color, mon- 
strous habits, motions, &c. An article upon the diseases 
of plants concludes this chapter. 

Art. 2. — Color of Plants and Flowers. 
Milne calls " color an attribute or sensible quality of 
of plants." There is nothing I am acquainted with in 
ihe vegetable kingdom, that is more changeable and de- 
serving notice than the coloring of plants ; which is dif- 
ferent not only in flowers, but also in leaves, roots, seeds* 
bark, and indeed in every part of them. When the earth 
is clothed with vegetation in the spring, green is the 
predominant color ; and so varied are the shades of this 
general vestment or clothing, that it is hardly possible 
to find two different varieties of plants of the same shade 



ON VARIATIONS AND DISEASES. 89 

of color. This general clothing of plants also undergoes 
many changes during the season from spring to autumn ; 
the most general change that takes plaee, is, the ex- 
panding of the leaf of most plants, when the color is 
commonly of a light green inclined to a yellow ; and the 
forests have at that time a tinge of yellow in their ap- 
pearance ; this coloring is soon changed into a deeper 
green, which, when the leaf is at its maturity, is then at 
its deepest color. From the maturity of the leaf to its 
decay, or dropping from the plant — which is shorter or 
longer in different varieties — a gradual change takes 
place from a deep green to a yellow, in most plants, and 
in some varieties it is again changed into a deep red or 
purple, as in most of the native shrubs, which is owing 
to the acidity they contain. Leaves of plants are also va- 
riegated or checkered in many ways with two or three 
distinct colors, which is exemplified in the Amaranthus 
tricolor, Variegated Geranium, and many evergreens, as 
Hollies, Box, &c. Some leaves of plants have distinct 
colors on each side, as the Tradescantia discolor ; and 
in some cases the color of plants is entirely extracted and 
a white is substituted, which is caused by the absence of 
light and air as in the case of blanched Celery. 

In the flowers of plants many changes are observable 
from their first expanding to their decay. With a very few 
exceptions the calyx, or covering of the flower is mostly 
green ; there is, however, an exception to this rule in 
some few flowers. The Ear-drop, or Fuchsia coccinea, 
has a beautiful scarlet calyx, or covering, which is often 
taken for the flower cups, which are purple ; and the 
changeable part of the Hydrangea hortensis, is nothing 
more than a changeable calyx or covering, the flowers being 
no larger than a pin's head. The petals or flower leaves 
8* 



y(J THE FLOWER GARBEN COMPANION. 

are the most changeable, as in most flowers, when they 
begin to expand, their petals are of a light green color, 
which, on being expanded and exposed to the atmosphe- 
ric air, becomes red, purple, yellow, or any color natural 
to them : during which time it undergoes many changes. 
Flowers are also variable in their parts, as in most cases 
we find the anthers, which contain the pollen, are of a yel- 
low color, and the styles, which support them, of a hyali- 
nus or water color. The flower leaves or petals are also,, 
in many cases,, mottled or variegated, as in the Geranium, 
Balsam, Camellias, and many others. 

In taking a general view of the colors of plants, it will 
be found that white is most common in the petals of 
spring flowers, as the Snowdrop, Wood anemone, 
Cherry, Plum, &c. ; water color in the styles and stigma 
of flowers ; yellow in the heads or anthers of flowers, and 
in the petals of most compound flowers, as the Sunflow- 
er, Coreopsis, Haivkiveed, and most autumnal flowers. 
Black is most common in seeds and the bark of roots- 
Blue, red, and violet, in the petals of summer flowers, as 
the Ross, Larkspur, and many native plants. Bed is alsc* 
very common in acid fruits and berries, and green pre- 
dominates in leaves and the calyx of plants. 

In closing the present article, it is proper to add that the 
color of flowers varies from their natural or primitive ac- 
cording to the location they are placed in, and by obser- 
vation it will be found that all kinds of fulgid flowers, 
as the Double Lychnis, Roses, or any high colored, re- 
quire to be exposed to the sun and air : shade generally 
causes most flowers to lose their deep colors, except 
those of a pure white, as the Lily of the Valley, and 
and those which naturally grow in shaded locations. 



ON VARIATIONS AND DISEASES. 91 

Art 3. — Double Flowers. 

Double flowers are vegetable monsters ; they are ex- 
emplified in the Double Dahlia, Stock gillifloiver, Rose, 
and Camellia ; they are, in most cases, the result of lux- 
uriance in culture or other causes by which the organs 
of generation are transformed into gaudy petals or flower 
leaves ; consequently, such flowers cannot possibly pro- 
duce seed ; their varieties have, therefore, to be prolonged 
by propagation of cuttings, roots, and layers. 

Nothing is less constant in plants than double flowers, 
which is fully exemplified in the Dahlia ; as we may see 
on the same plant, perhaps twenty flowers all differ- 
ently formed ; some nearly single, with the organs of 
generation, as the male and female parts, with a yellow 
centre ; others approaching a semi-double and some a per- 
fect double flower ; until the variety is termed " run out," 
which is to say returned to its primitive state of a single 
flower. This sporting of flowers is very different in 
plants of the same family ; for we see in some plants that 
almost every flower is perfectly double, as for instance in 
the Dahlia : the Countess of Liverpool generally forms a 
fine, clear, well-formed double flower ; whilst others, as 
the Queen of Dahlias, has occasionally a fine double 
flower; others, on the same plant, are semi-double, and 
some nearly single. The same affinity is observable in 
many kinds of perennial plants, that produce double 
flowers. 

In annual flowers, as the Stock gilliflower, the double 
flowers are more perfect, but the duration is shorter: one 
year only it can be said to continue, although it is often 
elongated by cuttings, which are mostly of a sickly ap- 
pearance. Whatever may be the value of double flow- 



92 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

ers, certain it is that they sooner or later will cease to be 
in existence- 

The primitive or single flowers are the only varieties 
that can perpetuate the vegetable kingdom to the end of 
time. The economy of nature in this case, as in ail 
others, has given a variation, that too much sameness may 
not cloy our pleasure. We for instance, in some double 
flowers, find them continue their perfect character for 
many years unaltered, as the Double white Camellia ; 
in others we perceive a continual variation for a few years, 
as in the Dahlia, and then the primitive state again pre- 
dominates; in other denominations of plants, as annuals, 
a yearly variation from the single to the double flower is 
observable, as in the Stock gillijtower ; whilst the primi- 
tive or single flower at all times presents the same form 
and number of parts, and is perpetually renewed and 
continued in its natural habit and quality. 

Art. 4. — Motion of Plants. 
" Motus, or motion ; when applied to plants," says 
Milne, " the term motion is very limited, and expressive, 
not of an absolute change of place, but of direction." 
The most general motion of plants that takes place, as a 
natural change, is the well known fact that most trees, 
shrubs, and the lower order of plants, always incline to- 
ward the light. This fact is observable in woods, where 
trees grow close together, in which case their branches 
always incline towards the light and air, as the vacant 
places, and the outsides. Plants on the shelves of green- 
houses, or in windows, always incline to the glass, and 
when their position is changed the leaves and minor 
branches change their position also, and incline to the 
light. If a number of plants are placed in a dark room. 



ON VARIATIONS AND DISEASES. 93 

in different parts, where there is a small window, each 
plant will be found to direct its position in a direct line to 
such window. In conclusion to this part of the subject, 
it may be proper to state that soft-wooded plants alter 
their position, on being changed, sooner than those of a 
hard-wooded kind ; therefore, the time of regaining the 
position of any plant depends on its nature. 

The movements or motions of the leaves of plants is 
exemplified in many different ways. If a branch of a 
grape vine is turned from its natural position where it 
grows, so as to turn the under sides of the leaves to the 
light, they will in a few days regain their natural position 
by being reversed on their footstalks. This movement is 
apparent also in the leaves of most kind of plants when 
reversed from their natural position, which they again re- 
sume in a shorter or longer time in accordance to their 
habit, as before stated. In some varieties of plants the 
leaves fold up close to ihe footstalk in the night. This 
motion is termed by botanists, " the sleep of plants," 
and is observable in some varieties of Oxalis and many 
of the winged leaved plants, as the Acacia lophanta, which 
folds its leaves close to the stem by night, and unfolds 
them at the approach of day. The same movement takes 
place if such plants are put into darkness in the day time. 
Some plants are known to close their leaves on being 
touched, as the Sensitive plant ; and some leaves are put 
in motion by the most gentle breeze, as the Aspen tree, 
the leaves of which are always trembling on the tree, and 
hence the name tremula. In flowers a motion is observa- 
ble in their folding and unfolding in different periods of 
the day ; an example of this is observable in a pretty 
green-house plant, the Oxalis versicolor, which opens its 
flowers in the middle of the day, when the sun shines on 



94 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

it and the heat is above sixty deg. ; but closes when dark- 
ness comes on at night, and on the following day the 
same motion is observable if the sun and heat is conge- 
nial, but if not, the flowers remain folded. The most 
beautiful motion in flowers, that I am acquainted with, is 
exemplified in the Edwardsia grandiftora. This beauti- 
ful plant expands its calyx — which is cloven — when the 
sun shines strongly on it; from between the calyx, a drop 
of nectar or honey appears and becomes larger as the sun 
has more influence ; the upper petals of the flower then 
ascend to catch the honey and protect the more delicate 
part of the flower, which in time fully expands; but so 
soon as the sun withdraws, the tender parts of the flower 
close and the upper petals descend with honey adher- 
ing to them, which amasses the whole flower in nectar, a 
rapid decomposition takes place, and in a few hours the 
flowers drop from the plants, and putrefaction immediately 
follows. This fact accounts fur the difficulty of obtaining 
seed from the plant in question. 

Art. 5. — On Insects and Diseases of Plants. 

In treating of insects and disease of plants, I shall make 
some cursory observations on those kinds that are com- 
monly injured, and give some remarks on the causes, 
and methods of evading them. 

The most common disease of plants arises either from 
poverty or luxuriance ; but the former is the most gen- 
eral. 

Of all the insects that are found on plants, the green fly 
is the most common in the jloiver garden and green- 
house. In the green-house it is generally bred among 
Roses, Stock gilliflowers, Geraniums, and soft-wooded 
plants, at a time when they are making a feeble growth, 



ON VARIATIONS AND DISEASES. 95 

when the number of insect on the leaves soon sickens 
them and brings on disease in their system. 

The remedy to destroy the green fly, in the green- 
house, is a fumigation of tobacco leaves. In the flower 
garden, on the Rose and those plants affected, by dipping 
the leaves or parts infested into a decoction of tobacco 
extracted from the leaves. 

The next common insect that infests plants is the red 
spider, a small, minute insect, bred by dry harsh heat or 
internal air. Plants that are affected with this insect have 
a sickly appearance, and their leaves turn yelloiv and then 
red ; on the back of the leaf a fine web is seen, and the 
insect is readily seen through a magnifying glass, and 
sometimes by the naked eye. There is no insect that I 
am acquainted with so difficult to destroy as the red 
spider. In the green-house steam and moist internal air 
counteract its ravages, and if the flues are whitewashed 
over with lime and the sulphur of vivum, it will in a great 
measure destroy it : but sulphur should in all cases be 
very cautiously applied, as too great a quantity suffocates 
and scalds plants. 

Many plants, as Ericas and Acacias, are very subject 
to a white scaly insect, which must be removed by taking 
it from the leaf either with the point of a knife or brush ; 
after removing the insect, take a wash made by a de- 
coction of soft soap with a small portion of sulphur and 
tobacco juice, with which the parts affected are to be 
spunged over three or four times. Oleanders, Camellias, 
and many evergreens, are often infested with a large, 
black, scaly insect, which can be removed in the same 
manner as the before named. 

There are many other insects that infest and injure 
plants, which are in most instances at first generated by 



96 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

unwholesome air or some stagnation in the plant, which 
of course can be counteracted or avoided by keeping 
plants clean and healthy, the very best remedy against 
disease. 

In many cases plants and trees are cankered by al- 
lowing the branches to cross and rub each other ; and 
some throw out knobs or protuberances where they have 
been bitten by insects, or some stagnation has taken 
place in the sap. It is not always warrantable to say 
that such appearances are always injurious to the 
tree or plant, although, in most cases, their absence is 
better than their presence, and they may generally be com- 
pared to wens on the animal creation. They act as reser- 
voirs of stagnated sap, which is mostly of an acid quali- 
ty, and in some instances breeds insects, as worms, and the 
like. Indeed, such appearances are mostly the result of 
perforation by files and other insects, made for a depository 
to hatch their young into life ; therefore, the propriety of 
their removal is at once apparent. 



PART 3. 

CONSTRUCTION AND MANAGEMENT OF THE GREEN- 
HOUSE. 



CHAPTER I. 

On the Construction of the Greenhouse? 



Art. 1. — Location and Plan. 

The Green-house being, at this time, an almost general 
appendage to the flower garden, particularly in city resi- 
dences, where it is generally connected with the dwelling 
house, is the principal reason for introducing some re- 
marks on the subject in this place. 

The position of the green-house should, if possible.be 
such that it may face to the south, although a southeast 
or southwest aspect may answer ; it must be a consider- 
ation with the owner, as to which is the most convenient 
place on the premises. In all cases it should be protected 
as much as possible on the northeast and cold quarters, 
and be exposed to the south and southeast. The site on 
which it is to be built must be dry, which facilitates the 
working of it in winter, and is most conducive to the 
health of the plants. The house may be of almost any 
plan ; it will appear to good advantage with a circular front, 
although a straight one is the most general and answers 
9 



98 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

best. Thirtyfive feet long, and fourteen wide in the in- 
side, is perhaps a good house ; but when the length is 
greater the width must be in proportion. The front and 
end walls should be of brick and may be placed two feet 
above the surface of the earth ; on the front Avail, upright 
sashes from two and a half to three feet high, must be 
conveniently fixed so as to give air, either by sliding in a 
grooved chase, so that the whole or any portion of them 
can be taken out at either end, and air given if required, 
at any part of the front of the house ; or they may be 
suspended on hinges to be lifted up at pleasure. The 
back wall must be carried to such a height that when the 
roof, which must be glass, is put on, it forms an angle 
of forty deg. ; the ends, which should also be glass, will 
have a pitch accordingly ; the roof should be composed of 
sashes four feet wide, the top ones to slide by pulleys and 
reels over the bottom. The rafters may be four inches 
wide on the outside, and bevelled to an angle inside ; the 
panes should be five by seven inches, well glazed with a 
lap of not more than a quarter of an inch, the wood and 
all other materials require to be of the best quality. 

Art. 2. — Mode of Heating. 

The house may be heated either by a dry flue, or hot 
water, but the dry flue is most general, and perhaps best. 

Materials for the flue. — The materials are, about fifty 
fire bricks, for an arch over the furnace, six bars of cast 
iron for the grate, eighteen inches long, the ends of which 
must be two inches square and the other part two inches 
thick, and three fourths wide at the top, and half an inch 
at the bottom ; which will allow a sufficient draught and 
room for the ashes to pass through. 

The two frames required for the furnace and ash-hole 



ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 99 

should be the same in size, twelve inches square, and 
from two to three inches wide, with iron doors hung in 
the usual way : next are two iron bars as supporters for 
the grate, which must be two feet long ; the other mate- 
rials are flue tiles, which should be twelve inches square 
and grooved ; they can be had, of superior quality, at the 
Salamander Works, New York. Soft bricks and good 
mortar are the other requisites. 

Building the furnace. — The furnace is the first to be 
attended to, which should be at least fifteen or eighteen 
inches below the level of the flue, in order to have a good 
draught. The size of the furnace must be thirteen inches 
wide, in order to give spaoe for taking out the bars, when 
it is requisite to clean the furnace : the bars must rest on 
the two iron supporters, underneath which will be the ash- 
hole of the same dimensions. An arch of fire bricks must 
be turned over the grating, fifteen inches high in the 
centre. 

There should be a neck of a curvilinear form, about 
three feet long, with a regular ascent of one foot, to cause 
a good draught. 

Position of the flue. — The position of the flue should 
be such as to turn round the front of the house, from the 
northeast to the northwest corner, where the smoke should 
be carried horizontal from the neck before spoken of. 

Dimensions of the flue. — In building the flue, I recom- 
mend for a foundation, that bricks be laid in mortar, to the 
width of twentyone inches from the wall ; on this foun- 
dation, two courses of bricks must laid on their edges; 
one three inches, the other fifteen from the wall ; leaving 
a space of four inches between each brick so as to form a 
pigeon hole under the flue: on these two courses, lay tiles 
for the bottom ; then proceed with three bricks on their 



100 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

edges each side the tile, which, when covered with the 
upper tiles, forms the flue, the inside of which will be 
twelve inches deep and eight wide. 

Art. 3. — Walk and Stages. 

Adjoining the foundation of the fine, round the front 
of the house, I recommend a paved walk, of white mar- 
ble, two feet wide, to be laid in an inclined manner of half 
an inch in eight feet, to the southeast or southwest corner, 
to carry off the water,, which can be conducted through a 
pipe, three inches in diameter, to pass under the wall, into 
a reservoir ; on the inside of the walk, a row of bricks 
may be laid in a standing direction, to keep the earth 
from covering the walk. 

Staging of the house. — Over the flue, around the front, 
a stage may be built for the accommodation of small 
plants, consisting of four shelves ; that near the glass to- 
be eight, the second seven, the third six, and the fourth- 
five inches wide ; to descend towards the walk six inches ; 
which will be two inches between each shelf. A stage should 
also be erected from the walk, to the back of the house^. 
according to the following scale, viz : the first shelf next 
the walk to be four feet six inches from the front glass, its 
height three feet, and width seven inches ; the second six 
inches above that, and the same width ; the third and 
fourth, eight, fifth and sixth, ten, seventh, twelve, and 
eighth the remaining space to the wall. Their height, one 
above another, gradually to increase ; so as to leave the 
seventh twelve inches from the eighth, which should be 
five feet from the top of the wall. In addition to the above, 
shelves may also be erected in other parts of the house,, 
for succulent plants, as the Cactus, and dry stove plants,, 
with many little things that may be added to suit the 
owner's taste. 



ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE GREEN-HOUSE. 101 

Having completed the house, the next thing to be at- 
tended to is painting the wood work white, — the stage 
excepted, — the brick work and walls require whitewash- 
ing, for the benefit of the plants and its neat appearance. 

Art. 4. — Repairing and Cleansing. 

Before entering on the subject of green-house plants, 
there remain one or two observations on the internal ar- 
rangement of the green-house, which, though not strictly 
pertaining to the subject of this chapter, may be brought 
in here with advantage. 

To have the house in proper order for the reception of 
plants in the fall, it should be minutely inspected in the 
month of August each year, that all repairs which appear 
requisite may be done. The flue should be exam- 
ined first, which requires that a few tiles be taken off the 
tops, in order to clean out the soot, which has collected 
during the winter ; this may be done with a hoe and 
brush ; the soot must be drawn to the place where the 
tiles are taken off; the flue being cleansed, it is next to 
be examined outwardly, the tiles properly replaced, re- 
paired, and whitewashed ; the back wall and every part 
of the brick work, must also be whitewashed, which will 
be of material benefit to the plants when growing in the 
house. 

Lime washing improves the appearance of the house 
and is a great preventive against the many insects which 
always infest plants. If a portion of sulphur be beaten fine 
and mixed with the wash intended for the flue, the red 
spider, that minute pest to plants, will be greatly deterred 
from injuring those which are at the dry end of the house. 

The furnace is next to be inspected and repaired. 
The internal part of the house being cleansed and repair- 
9* 



102 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION". 

ed, the roof should be inspected and all broken glass re- 
paired. The wood work should be painted if required, 
and, in fact, every part put in perfect order. 

When the house is filled with plants, great care must 
be taken not to allow any leaves or filth to collect, as it 
occasions an impure air, which often causes the plants to 
have a sickly appearance. 

The leaves of plants being porous and having the 
power of absorbing the surrounding air in which they 
grow, it is evident that their health greatly depends on 
the pure state of it ; consequently, care should be taken 
to obtain that which is most congenial, and which will 
be found to be a sweet and pleasant internal heat. 



CHAPTER II. 

On tile Management of Green-house Plants - 



Art. 1. — Taking the Plants into Winter Quarters and 
Potting. 

In treating of the management of green-house plants, 
taking them into winter quarters should be the first con- 
sideration ; this must be attended to about the middle of 
September, although in many cases it may be deferred to 
the beginning of October, yet the latter month cannot be 
recommended, as in many instances plants are much in- 
jured by frost before that time. 



ON THE MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 103 

Potting the plants. — Previous to taking the plants into 
the house, those that require repotting into a fresh com- 
post should be attended to, in order that they maybe well 
rooted and established in the pots, so that they may have 
a good appearance in the house ; many others that are 
not properly green-house plants, may be potted and taken 
in, to flower during the winter, as Polyanthus, Primrose, 
Stock gillijlower, Carnations, and others ; also many 
varieties of bulbous roots may be potted, as Tulips, Hya- 
cinths, and Narcissus, which will flower and decorate the 
house in the winter. 

Previous to taking the plants into the house, the pots 
require to be cleansed of all dirt or any substance attached 
to them ; all dead leaves should also, at this time, be taken 
from the plants : indeed everything should be done to 
bring them into the house as clean as possible. 

Art. 2. — Arranging the Plants in the House. 

To put the plants in proper order, requires some taste 
and judgment. Most plants have a peculiar location in 
their native state, therefore it is equally requisite that 
they have something similar in their artificial location. 

The Geranium, or Pelargonium, may be placed in a 
situation as close as possible to the glass, where they can 
obtain the full influence of the sun. The Camellia, on 
the contrary, requires a shady situation, but should be so 
placed, that a free circulation of air can act upon it, which 
should be wholesome, or the flower buds will eventually 
drop off before they expand. All kinds of succulent 
plants, as the Cactus, and Aloe, should be placed on 
shelves in a warm, dry situation, where they can receive 
the sun and air which is at the east end. On the front 
shelves, small plants, of almost every kind, may be 



104 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION, 

placed, and particularly the hardy kinds, as China roses., 
Bulbs, and those of a dwarf habit. If this plan be ob- 
served their appearance will be graceful and pleasing. 

Some taste is also required in arranging the plants in 
such a manner, that the whole form a mingled group, not 
too formal. Their various colors and forms should be so 
managed that there is not too much sameness, which will 
be the case if several plants of a similar kind are put to- 
gether. Some plants, of tall habit, should be selected 
and placed separately, where they can be seen to good 
advantage. 

Art. 3. — Watering the Plants. 

The best criterion for watering the plants, is to observe 
those which dry the earth in the pots soonest ; such will 
generally require the most water; but there is an excep- 
tion to this rule in the fleshy plants, as the Cactus and 
succulent tribe, which require water but seldom. 

All kinds of evergreens, in a growing state, should be 
well watered : as the Myrtle, Orange, Lemon, Lauresti- 
nus, &c. China roses require often watering, and so do 
also the Calla cethiopica; however, if pans containing wa- 
ter are kept under them the better ; though not generally 
recommended in a green-house. 

In some cases plants are much benefited by watering 
them all over ; this must, however, be done cautiously, 
and at a time when the water will quickly dry upon them ; 
for if it is left on them too long, it greatly injures and pre- 
vents their respiration and perspiration. 

The time of watering plants must depend on circum- 
stances ; the evening is the best early in the autumn, after 
a fine sunny day ; but in the winter months, the morning 
is the best, for by watering in the evening, in winter, both 



ON THE MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 105 

the house and plants are injured by being cooled too 
much. In most cases a waterpot with a rose, is most to 
be recommended, as it is not so likely to wash the earth 
out of the pots. 

Art. 4. — Temperature of the House. 

Admitting air to the green-house requires some care 
and practical knowledge ; to do it properly, regard must 
be had to the nature of the plants, and the time of the 
year. When the plants are first housed in the autumn, 
the sashes should be wholly let down in the day, and the 
house closed at about half an hour before sunset. 

As the winter approaches, and the air gets colder, it 
must be admitted more moderately in the morning, and 
the house closed sooner in the evening, in order to shut in 
the sun heat. The temperature of the house will de- 
pend on what state the plants are to be kept in. 

The green-house is mostly considered as mere winter 
quarters for plants ; to keep out the frost is considered 
sufficient ; but, for my own part, I think the green-house 
should be made as inviting as possible in the winter, and 
the plants forwarded a little, and forced into flower for 
the gratification of those who visit. The house, under 
such circumstances, will require to be kept warmer than 
usual, by five or ten degrees. 

The temperature of the green-house, is usually regu- 
lated by the thermometer of Fahrenheit, and the prin- 
cipal object is to keep it a little above freezing, say from 
thirtysix to forty deg., in a cold night; but to forward 
plants into an early flowering, from forty to fortyfive deg. 
is the lowest it should be allowed to fall to. The heat in 
the day time when the sun shines, may be allowed to rise 
fifteen degrees higher than at night. 



106 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

In conclusion, I must again particularly recommend 
that the plants be kept cleansed from all dead leaves and 
other filth, that may either be attached to the pots or 
plants ; the pots must be either washed or new ones used 
in shifting, about the beginning of March, so that they 
have a clean and healthy appearance ; the shelves should 
be often cleaned during the winter, and the pots often 
moved to prevent water from collecting under them, 
which stagnates and injures the roots. It is also very 
requisite that a quantity of water, of a proper tempera- 
ture, be always kept in the house for watering the plants, 
and to be at hand in case of fire. Every attention should 
be paid to the hottest end of the flue ; no chips or sha- 
vings should be left near it, which, in many cases, I be- 
lieve, has been the cause of the destruction of the house 
by fire. The house should be examined during the win- 
ter, and if any parts in consequence of the severe heat 
have given way, they should be immediately repaired. 

Art. 5. — Descriptive List of Green-house Plants. 

In forming a descriptive list of green-house plants, I 
have selected those kinds which are of easy culture, and 
free flowering. Some attention has also been paid to 
select such kinds as would give a variety of flowers during 
the season, with the addition of the list of the Geranium, 
Camellia, &c, that are to follow. No particular attention 
has been paid to those plants of a recent introduction, 
unless they have been proved worthy of notice as stand- 
ard varieties ; the principal object of the list being to 
describe such plants only, as are hoped to be worthy al- 
ways of a place in the green-house. I have designated 
under their heads, the succulent plants, which require a 
dry soil and little water in the winter. 



ON THE MANAGEMENT OF GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 



107 



[Those marked thus * are running vines adapted to train on walls, 
pillars, &c. Those marked with initials B. E. are plants that thrive 
best in black peat earth or mould.] 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. H 


eight. 


Time of flowerin 


ACACIA. 


Acacia. 








verticillata 


whorl -leaved 


Yellow 


6 


March, April. 


armata 


simp-Id prickly Yellow 


4 


March, April. 


suaveoleus 


sweet-scented 


Yellow 


3 


Feb., June. 


decipens 


paradoxical 


Yellow 


3 


March, June. 


longifolia 


long-leaved 


Yellow 


10 


March, April. 


lophanta 


two-spiked 


Yellow 


8 


March, April. 


AGAPANTHUS. 


African Lily 


Fleshy Rooted. 


umbellatus 


large flower 


Blue 


3 


April, June. 


variegatus 


striped-leaved 


Blue 


2 


April, June. 


AGAVE. 


American Aloe. Succulent Plants. 


americana 


common Amer 


. Yellow 


20 


March, Sept. 


variegata 


variegated 


Yellow 


20 


March, Sept. 


ALOE. 


Aloe. 


Succulent Plants. 


T ariegata 


partridge-breast Pink 


2 


March, Sept. 


arborescens 


tree 


Red 


6 


March, Sept. 


pumila 


small cobweb 


Green 


1 


March, April. 


AZALEA. 


Azalea. 


B. E. 






indica 


Indian. 


Scarlet 


4 


Feb., April. 


alba indica 


white 


White 


4 


Feb., March. 


purpurea plena 


double purple 


Purple 


4 


Feb., March. 


phcenecia 


purple 


Purple 


3 


Feb., March. 


BANKSIA. 


Banksia. 








serrata 


saw-leaved 


Yellow 


12 


July, Sept. 


grandis 


great flowering 


Yellow 


4 


May, Aug. 


ericifolia 


heath -leaved 


Yellow 


6 


Jan. December. 


speciosa 


long-leaved 


Green 


5 


May, Aug. 


BUDDLEA. 


BuDDLEA. 








globosa 


round-headed 


Orange 


15 


May, June. 


BEAUFORTIA. 


Beaufortia. 








decussata 


splendid 


Scarlet 


3 


May, July. 


sparsa 


alternate leaved 


Red 


3 


May, July. 


BOUVALIDIA. 


Bouvardia. 








triphylla 


three-leaved 


Scarlet 


2 


April, May. 


versicolor 


various-colored 


Red 


2 


July, Sept. 



108 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. Height. 


Time of flowerin 


BURCHELLA. 


BURCHELLA. 








capensis 


cape 


Scarlet 


3 


March, June. 


CACTUS. 


Cactus. 


Succulent Plants. 


speciosissimus 


beautiful 


Crimson 


3 


July, Aug. 


grandiflorus 


night-flowering 


White 


2 


June, Aug. 


flagilliformis 


creeping 


Pink 


2 


March, June. 


truncatus 


truncatus 


Pink 


1 


January. 


Jinkensonii 


Jinkenson's 


Crimson 


2 


March. 


CALCEOLARIA. 


Slipperwort. 








in tegri folia 


entire-leaved 


Yellow 


2 


May, Sept. 


rugosa 


rugose 


Yellow 


2 


July, Sept. 


Fothergilla 


Fothergill's 


Orange 


h 


May, Aug. 


plalida 


pale yellow 


Yellow 


2 


March, May. 


CALLA. 


Calla. 








aethiopica 


Ethiopian 


White 


2 


March, June. 


CORRjEA. 


CORRffiA. 








alba 


white-flowered 


White 


3 


April, July. 


speciosa 


red-flowered 


Red 


3 


April, July. 


virens 


green-flowered 


Green 


3 


May, Nov. 


*COBiEA. 


CoBiEA. 








scandens 


climbing 


Purple 


15 


May, Oct. 


CORONILLA. 


Coronilla. 








valentina 


nine-leaved 


Yellow 


3 


March, Nov. 


CRASSULA. 


Crassula. 








coccinea 


scarlet 


Scarlet 


2 


March, June. 


versicolor 


changeable 


Variegated 2 


March, June. 


falcata 


sickle-leaved 


Scarlet 


2 


May, June. 


CISTUS. 


Rock Rose. 








ladaniferus 


gum 


White 


3 


May, June. 


incanus 


hoary-leaved 


Purple 


2 




CITRUS. 


Orange Tree. 






myrtifolia 


myrtle-leaved 


White 


3 


April, May. 


limonum 


lemon 


White 


12 


April, May. 


aurantium 


sweet 


White 


15 


April, May. 


nobilis 


mandarin 


White 


15 


April, May. 


CYCAS. 


Sago-palm. 








revoluta 


narrow-leaved 




3 




DAPHNE. 


Daphne, 








odora 


sweet-scented 


Purple 


2 


Feb., March. 


varicgata 


variegated 


Purple 


2 


Feb., March. 



ON THE MANAGEMENT OJ GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. 109 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. H 


eight 


Time of flowering. 


DIOSMA. 


DlOSMA. 


B. E. 






odora 


sweet-scented 


White 


2 


March. 


capitata 


pale purple 


Purple 


2 


Mareh, May. 


hirsuta 


hairy-leaved 


Pink 


2 


March. 


EPACRIS. 


Epachib. 








grandiflora 


crimson 


Crimson 


2 


Feb., June. 


pulchella 


sweet-scented 


Pink 


4 


April, June. 


purpuracens 


riged 


Purple 


3 


January, March. 


FICUS. 


Fig Tree. 








elasticus 


Indian Rubber 




8 




FUCHSIA. 


Ear Drop. 








coccinea 


scarlet 


Scarlet 


3 


April, Sept. 


gracilis 


slender 


Scarlet 


3 


April, Sept. 


globosa 


globe-flowered 


Scarlet 


2 


April, Sept. 


microphylla 


small-leaved 


Scarlet 


2 


April, Sept. 


GARDENIA. 


Gardenia. 


B. E. 






florida 


Cape Jasmine 


White 


4 


May, Sept. 


radicans 


rooting 


White 


1 


May, Sept. 


latifolia 


broad-leaved 


White 


3 


May, Sept. 


GNAPHALIUM. 


Everlasting-Flower. 


B. E 




glomeratum 


cluster-flowered Yellow 


l 


March, June. 


HELIOTROPIUM. 


Heliotrope. 








peruvianum 


Peruvian 


Purple 


2 


March, Sept. 


grandiflonim 


large-flowered 


Purple 


3 


March, Sept. 


HOYA. 


HOYA. 








*carnosa 


fleshy-leaved 


Pink 


4 


April, May. 


HYDRANGEA. 


Hydrangea. 








hortensis 


changeable 


Red, Blue 


April, Sept. 


HYPERICUM. 


Saint John's 


WORT. 






monogynum 


Chinese 


Yellow 


1 


April, May. 


glandulosum 


glandulous 


Yellow 


1 


April, May. 


ILLICIUM. 


Aniseed Tree 








flondanum 


red-flowered 


Red 


2 


March, April. 


IRIS. 


Iris. 








ehinensis 


Chinese 


Blue 


1 


March, April, 


susiana 


Chalcedonian 


Striped 


1 


Feb., March. 


KENNEDIA. 


Kennedia 


B. E. 






*rubicunda 


dingy-flowerec 


Scarlet 


2 


Feb., June. 


*coccinea 


scarlet 

10 


Scarlet 


3 


Feb., June. 



110 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. He: 


ight. 


Time of fioweri.i 


LAGERSTRCEMIA 


. Lagerstrcemia. 






indica 


Indian 


Red 


5 


May, Sept. 


LANTANA. 


Lantana. 








mista 


nettle-leaved 


Purple 


2 


May, July. 


camara 


various -flowered Pur. Or. 


2 


May, July. 


LAVENDULA. 


Lavender. 








spicata 


common 


Lilac 


2 


April, May. 


dentata 


tooth-leaved 


Lilac 


2 


April, May. 


LINUM. 


Flax. 








trigynum 


three-styled 


Orange 


2 


Dec, March. 


LOTUS. 


Bird's-Fgot Trefoil. 






jacobseus 


dark-flowered 


Black 


1 


March, Sept. 


MAGNOLIA. 


Magnolia. 








purpurea 


purple 


Purple 


2 


March, April. 


conspicua 


downy-leaved 


White 


3 


Dec, Feb. 


grandiflora 


laurel-leaved 




4 




METROSIDEROS. 


Metrosideros, 








saligna 


willow-leaved 


Crimson 


4 


March, May. 


lanceolala 


spear-leaved 


Crimson 


4 


March, May. 


speciosa 


showy 


Crimson 


4 


March, May. 


NANDINA. 


Nandina. 








domestica 


panicled 




4 




NERIUM. 


Rose-Bay. 








splendens 


double-hybrid 


Red 


4 


May, Sept. 


album 


white-flowered 


White 


4 


May, Sept. 


variegatum 


variegated 


Striped 


4 


May, Sept. 


OLEA. 


Olive Tree. 








fragrans 


fragrant 


White 


3 


March, May. 


P^EONIA. 


PiEONY. 








arborea 


tree 


Purple 


4 


March, May. 


papavera 


poppy-flowered 


White 


3 


March, May. 


moutan 


shrubby 


Purple 


4 


March, May. 


PASSIFLORA. 


Passion-Flower. 






*alata 


wing-stalked 


Varieg. 


15 


March, Nov. 


*princeps 






15 


March, Nov. 


*racemosa 


racemose 


Striped 


20 


March, Oct. 


*caerula 


blue-flowered 


Blue 


3 


May, June. 


PASSERINA. 


Sparrow-wort. 






filiformis 


heath-leaved 


White 


1 


June, Aug. 



ON THE MANAGEMENT OP GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS. Ill 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. Height. 


Time of flowering, 


spicata 


spiked 


White 


2 


May, June.- 


grandiflora 


great-flowered. 


White 


1* 


May, June. 


PITTOSPORUM. 


PlTTOSPORUM. 








tobira 


Chinese 


White 


3 


April, May. 


undulatum 


wave-leaved 


White 


3 


April, May. 


PLUMBAGO. 


Lead-wort. 








capensis 


cape 


Blue 


2 


April, May. 


POLYGLA. 


MlLK-WORT. 








myrtifolia 


myrtle-leaved 


Purple 


3 


March, April. 


speciosa 


i showy 


Purple 


3 


March, April. 


PROTEA. 


Protea. 








speciosa 


splendid 


Purple 


2 


March, June. 


longifolia 


long-leaved 


Purple 


2 


March, April. 


RHODODENDRON.Rose-Bay. 








arboreum 


tree 


Purple 


20 


March. April. 


catawbiense 


catawba 


Purple 


4 


June, August- 


ponticum 


purple 


Purple 


12 


March, April. 


hybridium 


hybrid 


Pink 


6 


March, April. 


Russellianum 


Russel's 




6 


March, April. 


SERISSA. 


Serissa. 








fetida 


fetid 


White 


2 


March, Sept. 


STAPELIA. 


Stapelia. 


Succulent planii 




grandiflora 


great -flowered 


D. Purple 


£ Sept., Dec. 


asterias 


star-fish 


P. Striped 


i 


j May, Nov. 


variegata 


variegated 


Y. Striped 


h 


June, Sept. 


STRELITZIA. 


Strelitzia. 








regina 


canua-leaved 


Yellow 


2 


May, Sept. 


THEA. 


Tea-Plant. 








verdis 


green 


White 


3 


March. 


bohea 


black 


White 


3 


March. 



Art. 6. — Tender Bulbous Rooted Plants. 
The plants named in the following list are of easy- 
culture, and deserve a place in the green-house ; most of 
them are natives of the Cape of Good Hope or South 
America. They require to be placed in a warm part of 
the house, where they will flower to perfection ; the front 
or east end is most proper. A compost of one third 



112 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



good, sharp sand, one third rotten leaf mould, and the re- 
mainder good, fresh, black earth, from a dry location, 
should be prepared when the bulbs are to be potted in it, 
whilst in their dormant state, which is generally in the 
months of November and December ; they may then be 
placed over the flue and watered sparingly until they be- 
gin to vegetate ; it may then be more copiously applied, 
and the pots placed where they can receive the full influ- 
ence of the sun. When the plants have done flowering, 
and the leaves begin to turn yellow, they are to be placed 
on some back shelf where they can ripen regularly ; but 
little water is then necessary ; in this state they are to 
remain in the pots until the time of repotting as before 
described. 



Name. Color. Tim» of flowering. 

ALSTR.EMERIA. 
Pelegrina Striped June, Sept. 
Ligtu Striped Feb. Mar. 

flookeri 

flos Martini W. Pur.Y. Jan. 

AMARYLLIS. 

Johnsonii Crimson April, May. 
formosissimusCrimson May, June. 
Titata Varieg. May, June, 

psittacina Scarlet May, Aug. 
insignis Scarlet July, Aug. 

equestris Scarlet Aug., Sept. 
Belladonna Flesh color July, Sept. 
ANTHOLYZA. 

sethiopica Orange May, June, 
vittigera Orange Jan. 
BABIANA. 

rubra cyanea Red, blue March, Ap. 
plicata Purple March, Ap. 

sulphurea Yellow March, Ap. 
tubiflora Yellow, red June. 
CRINUM. 

tnericanum July, Aug. 



Name. Color. Time of flowering. 


Commelini 


June, Aug. 


longifolium 


Juue, Aug. 


amoenum 


June, Aug. 


augustum 


June, Aug. 


amabile 


June, Aug. 


DIANELLA. 




ccenila Blue 


May, Aug. 


divaricata Blue 


July, Aug. 


EUCOMIS. 




punctata Varieg. 


June, July. 


striata 


June, July. 


GLADIOLUS. 




versicolor Varieg. 


May, June. 


cardinalis Dark red 


May, July. 


psittacinus Yellow 




HiEMANTHUS. 




cocci nius Scarlet 


June, Aug. 


carneus Red 


June, July. 


IRIS. 




moraeoides 


April, Aug. 


persica Varieg. 


March. 


IXIA. 




crateroides Crimson 


May, July. 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE CAMILLIA. 



113 



Name. Color. Time of flowering. 


Name Color. Time of flowering. 


conica Orange 


May, June. 


ORNITHOGALUM. 




maculata Varieg. 


April, May. 


niveum White 


Aug. 


leucantha White, blue April. 


flavum Yellow 


June, July. 


LACHENALIA. 




altissimum White 


June, Aug. 


tricolor Varieg. 


March, Ap. 


PANCRATIUM. 




quadricolor " 


March, Ap. 


augustum 


May, Aug. 


pendula " 


May, June. 


amoenum 


May, Aug. 


OXALIS. 




rotatum 


May, Aug. 


versicolor Varieg. 


Jan. Mar. 


speciosum 


May, Aug. 


caprina Red 


Feb. 


TRITONIA. 




crenata Red 


March. 


crispa Flesh color May, June. 


fabcefolia Yellow 


Oct. 


crocata Yellow 


May, June. 


rosacea Pink 


Feb. Mar. 


rosea Pink 


June, July. 



CHAPTER III. 

On the Culture of the Camellia Japoniea. 



Art. 1. — Remarks. 
The Camellia Japoniea, or Japan Rose, may be consid- 
ered as one of the nobles of the green-house, during the 
period of its flowering, which happens — in a good selec- 
tion — from November until April. No collection of 
green-house plants can be said to be complete or respecta- 
ble, unless it contains from ten to fifteen varieties of these 
beautiful plants ; they are all delicate and of the most fin- 
ished cast. The foliage is glossy and of a perpetual green, 
which affords a striking contrast of shade with the flow- 
ers. When we consider its longevity, annual increase in 
10 * 



114 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

magnitude and blossom, together with its easy and simple 
culture under proper treatment, it is a most desirable 
plant. It should be cultured in the following manner : 
In its location, either in the green-house or open air, 
during the summer season, it must be partially excluded 
from the burning rays of the sun, especially at mid-day, at 
which time it often burns and injures the leaves and also 
damages the plant ; too much^re heat, in a confined situa- 
tion, is also injurious to the Camellia, and frequently 
causes the buds to fall off before they expand ; every 
opportunity should be taken to afford it plenty of air. 

Art. 2. — Propagation. 

The methods of increasing the Camellia are various, 
viz. by cuttings, layers, buds, and inarching the finer sorts 
on the single flowering red. 

The most successful and generally adopted plan, is 
however, to propagate the single red, by cuttings from off 
the young wood, which should be taken from the plant in 
September or October ; and rooted either under hand or 
bell glasses. The method of performing this is to prepare 
a sharp sandy loam, which is put into pots, or on a bed 7 
with a quantity of old tan underneath ; the cuttings are 
put into the pots in the usual manner. When the cut- 
tings are well rooted, which will be in two or three 
months, they may be put into small pots of light 
earth, or sandy loam, mixed with a quantity of black earth 
or sandy peat. They should remain in these pots until 
they are filled with roots ; they are then to be shifted into 
pots of a larger size, for the purpose of inarching - r the 
best time for this is the latter end of February or beginning 
of March, and the scion may be taken from the mother 
plant in August, if well united. 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE CAMELLIA. 115 

Art. 3. — Management in the Green-house. 

The Camellia should be placed in the house so as to be 
partially shaded from the sun ; and if on the ground 
where some sand has been placed, the better. They will 
require a moderate watering, in order to fully expand their 
flowers ; and if moderately syringed in fine weather at 
sun rise, they will be much benefited in their flowering : 
but care must be taken that it is not done too copiously, 
for if the water remains too long on the buds, it often 
causes them to fall off; if they are kept too dry, especi- 
ally when much fire heat is applied, they will also fail. 
The leaves should be often sprinkled, morning and even- 
ing, as they absorb a considerable quantity of nutriment • 
being elastic, the leaves of the Camellia perspire less than 
than those of deciduous plants, and consequently act as a 
reservoir of nutriment, as we see by experiment ; if a 
Camellia loses its leaves death often ensues, which is not 
the case with deciduous plants and shrubs. I have had 
evident proof that by refreshing Camellias in this way, it 
gives health and vigor to them, and, at certain seasons, 
causes the sap to descend, and buds will burst forth from 
the bare parts of the plant even when it has been divested 
of all the fibrous roots but a short time before. And fur- 
ther, this process is essential to the flowering of the plant. 
I have seen instances of large flowers being produced 
from plants almost rootless ; the watering, or sprinkling 
over of these plants, may be done more or less according 
to the season, and the state of the internal air in the situa- 
tion in which they are growing. 

In the spring, when the flowering is over and the 
plants begin to grow, refresh them often at their roots, as 
they require a considerable quantity of water when in a 
growing state. 



116 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Care should be taken, not to water the top of the 
plant while in flower, when the sun shines on it, 
which causes the blossoms to have spots on them, by 
the water collecting on their petals and especially on the 
white kinds. This process may be omitted in cloudy 
weather, as they will not be in a proper state to imbibe 
the water ; the plants will not dry their foliage or buds, 
in consequence of which the moistened buds will, in a 
measure, decay, and the calyx fall off when the flow- 
er expands ; this appears to be owing to that part being 
moistened too long, which prevents respiration, in conse- 
quence of which it becomes inert, and putrefaction fol- 
lows. 

The heat of the house should be moderate, from forty 
to forty five deg., and at all times a wholesome and mellow 
internal heat and air, should be the principal aim of the 
manager ; extremes of either are always injurious. 

Art. 4. — Repotting the Plants. 

Shifting or repotting the Camellia may be perform- 
ed any time after they have done flowering, which is 
generally in the month of March ; in doing this, care 
must be taken to give plenty of drainage, in order to 
let off the water, which sometimes settles at the bot- 
tom and saturates the soil, and the consequence is the 
roots are often rotted off. Broken pots will answer the 
purpose for drainage. 

The soil best adapted for the Camellia, is a good, 
mellow loam, with a portion of black earth, well mixed 
together ; if the loam is not of a sandy nature, some 
good sharp sand may be added, to make it more porous, 
for the fibrous roots to grow and work more freely in. 
When the plants are potted, they are to be located in 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE CAMELLIA. 



117 



such a manner that they may have the full benefit of the 
air ; if they are too much confined, they often become 
very weak ; they seldom set their flower buds strong and 
vigorous, and, indeed, it often causes them to lose their 
buds, and, if not this, to flower weakly. The plants at 
this time require plenty of water, to cause them to grow 
freely and strong. As early as the weather will permit, 
the plants may be taken from the green-house, and placed 
in their summer situation, which should be in a north or 
northeast aspect; where they are fully exposed to the air 
and not under the drip of trees or buildings. 

Art. 5. — Descriptive List of Camellias. 
[Those marked thus tare best adapted to rooms.] 
Botanical Name. English Name. General character of the flower. 



talba plena 
tfimbriata 
tflavescens 
candidissima 

tvariegated 

imbricata 

Chandelerii 

Colvilea 

tEclipse 

Punctata 

Cambellii 

altheaflora 

elegans 

tMyrtifolia 

Anemoneflora. 

Cliveana 

reticulate 

Floyii 

Hendersonii 

rubropleno 



WHITE. 

Double white 
white fringed 
Lady Harris' 
double white 

STEIPED. 

double striped 

imbricated 

Chandeler's 

Colvil's 

Pressis 

Cambell's 

Althea-flowered 

English 

HED. 

Myrtle-leaved 

Anemone-flow 'd 

red 

red 

Floy's 

Henderson's 

double red 



prime white, beautiful shape, 
margin of petals beautifully fringed, 
compact white with a tinge of blush oa 
fine form. [the petals. 

clear red, striped with white, 
double crimson, spotted with white, 
dark red, with white spots, 
white, blush spotted or striped, 
double white, striped with pink, 
fine white, blush spots or stripes, 
double white, spotted with pink, 
dark red, with white spots, 
rose, spotted with white. 

double light red, beautiful form, 
double dark red, very fine flower, 
double dark red, very fine flower. 
red, shaded with crimson, 
fine red, extra fine flower, 
light rose, beautiful form, 
fine large red. 



11® THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

CHAPTER IV. 

On the Culture of the Geranium, China Rose and Erica* 



Art. 1. — The Geranium or Pelargonium. 

This beautiful tribe of plants are mostly natives of the 
Cape of Good Hope, and their elegance, when in a flow- 
ering state, particularly recommends them to every lover 
of flowers : indeed, no green-house is perfect without a 
good collection of them. 

The general management of the Geranium is some- 
thing different from the Camellia, although they will both 
thrive well in the same house, and with the same heat ; 
but their location should be different, as they require to 
be situated so as to obtain the influence of the sun and 
air, and as near the glass as possible ; if this is not done 
the wood will grow weak and succulent, and consequent- 
ly will seldom flower strong and healthy. 

Propagation or increase. — The Geranium is increased 
by cuttings in the months of August and September, or 
at any time when the young wood is well ripened, or by 
its roots being cut into joints and inserted in a pot of 
compost and treated the same as cuttings. 

The compost best adapted for this purpose, is one third 
sandy loam, one third peat, with a little rotten leaf mould, 
and some river sand. 

When the compost is prepared, begin to propagate by 
cutting the ends of the cuttings to a joint, transversely 
and in a clean manner ; then take the pot, which should 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE GERANIUM. 119 

be six inches deep, and six wide at the top, and fill it two 
inches from the bottom with broken pots, beat fine with a 
hammer ; after which the remainder should be filled up 
to the rim with the soil, into which the cuttings may be 
inserted half way in a neat manner ; the pots are then to 
be shaken gently to close the earth to the cuttings, after 
which they may be gently watered, and the pots plunged 
into the ground to the rim, in a shady situation, under a 
wall or fence. They will require to be watered when 
the soil appears dry : in four weeks, if carefully attended to, 
they will be rooted and fit for potting off. 

Potting the young plants. — When the cuttings are 
well rooted, they must be potted singly, into smalls pots, 
three inches deep, and the same in diameter. The man- 
ner of performing this work is to put two or three small 
pieces of broken pots at the bottom and on them a small 
portion of rotten leaves, and fill up with the same soil, 
as before recommended for the cuttings. When they are 
well rooted they may be taken into the green-house. 

The principal object in growing the Geranium being to 
have a strong dwarf plant for flowering, care should be 
taken not to over water it nor keep it too warm. It should 
be always kept entirely dry about the roots and in small 
pots during the winter season. When the plant is grown 
four inches high, the heart is to be pinched out in order to 
make it form a bushy head. 

About the latter end of February, or beginning of 
March, Geraniums may be shifted into the pots they are 
intended to flower in ; for this purpose the soil should be 
similar to that recommended above, with this exception, 
that more rotten leaf mould, or manure be added, which 
causes the plants to flower finer. They require as 
much air to be given them as possible, and more water as 
the weather grows warm. 



120 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Art. 2. — List of Geraniums. 

WHITE OB BLUSH, WITH DARK LINES OB SPOTS. 

*Beaut.y of Brooklyn. *Micans. 

*Americanum. *Fosterianum. 

*Admiral Codrington- *Macranthon. 
*Brightoniensis. 

LILAC BLUSH, WITH DARK LINES AND SPOTS. 

Louis Philip. ^Ontario. 

Armesbury. Boll's Humii. 

ROSY RED OR PINK, WITH DARK LINES AND SPOTS. 

Queen Emma. *Queenii. 

*Anne Boleyn. *Roseum Multiflorum. 

*Clintonia3. *Coplice. 

^General Washington (new.) *Cleopatra, (new.) 

*Lord Munster. Juliet. 

BRIGHT RED, WITH DARK LINES AND SPOTS. 

Platagenet. *Youngii. 

* Latilobium. *Rubescens. 

Paganini, (new.) *Seneca. 

BRIGHT CRIMSON AND PURPLE, WITH DARK LINES AND SPOTS. 

*Eminet. Perfectum. 

*BrundenelliiB. *Reuben Apsley. 

PURPLE AND PUCE, WITH DARK LINES AND SPOTS. 

*Glorianum. *Albinotatum. 

*Blue Beard. *Juno. 

*Drakiae. Lady Combermere. 

DARK SHADE, RED OR CRIMSON, WITH DARK LINES AND LARGE 
SPOTS. 

*Tory. William the Fourth. 

*De Vere. *Fastuosum. 

*Earl Gray. *Hosackii. 
*Grandissimum. 

BRIGHT RED OB CBIM90N, WITH BLACK LINES AND SPOTS. 

Admiral Nelson. Flagons, or Lord Yarborougb. 

Ne plus ultra. Romeo. 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE CHINA ROSE. 121 

CHANGE, CRIMSON OB SCARLET, WITH BLACK LINES AND SPOTS. 

^Princess Augusta. *Russellianum. 

^Brown's Lady Gore. Queen Adelaide. 

De Burghae. *Daveyanum. 

RED, WITH DARK CLOUDED, PURPLE, CRIMSON. 

Obscurum Grandiflorurn. *Jenkinsonia. 

Beauclarkii, (Duke of St Johns.) *Yeatmanianum. 

VARIOUS. 

*Scarlet Superbum. *Sanguinium. 

*Seutulatum. *Quercifolium Superbum. 

[N. B. Those marked thus * in the preceding list are select varieties.] 

Art. 3.— The China Rose. 

The China Rose should always be found in a collection 
of green-house plants, amongst which it sustains a pro- 
minent character ; and the high estimation in which the 
buds and flowers are held in the winter, enhances its 
value. Independently of this, it is one of the best 
plants to decorate the flower garden in the summer, and 
is almost perpetually in flower ; with the exception of 
some of the tall growing kinds, which are ornamental in 
covering arbors, trellises, and the like. 

Increase. — The China Rose may be increased either 
by cuttings or layers, in the manner described for green- 
house plants. It thrives well in the temperature of the 
green-house, and its location should be on the front 
stage near the glass, as being the most appropriate. 

The soil best adapted for the China Rose, is a compost 
of one fourth of sand, taken from a road side, (where it 
has been drifted or washed by water;) one fourth 
of well rotted leaf mould ; and two fourths of the top 
sod of a pasture of naturally rich, mellow loam, where 
sheep or other animals have been for some time. This 
forms an excellent compost for the China Rose. 
11 



122 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Art. 4. — List of China Roses. 
In giving a list of China Roses, no descriptive charac- 
ter can, with any propriety, be given; most of the varie- 
ties being of a light or dark red, with the exception of those 
that are either white or yellow, which are so named to 
enable those desirous of purchasing, to become fully ac- 
quainted with their characteristic of flowering. I have 
therefore designated the color by the abreviations, D. for 
dark, L. R. for light red, B. for blush, and W. for white- 

[Those marked thus * are choice kinds. J 

*Undulata, d. Odorata, or tea scented, b. 

India minor, l. h. * " Lutea, y. 

*White China, w. * " Alba, w. 

*Sanguinea, d. * " Rubra, r. 
Lawrenceana, l. " Golcondi, b. 

Due de Berri. Noisettiana, or Noisette. 

*Belle de Monga, r>. * " Purpurea. 

*Amaranthe, d. " Coccinea, l. 

Bourbon. " Lutea, y. 

*Barclayana, d. *Bengalensis. 

Incarnata, D. Boursaltii. 

Duchess de Parma. Banksia. 
Champneyana, b. " Lutea, y. 

Multiflora, b. Cherokee. 

Grevillea, l. e. *Jacksonia. 

Art. 5. — The Erica. 
The Erica is one of the prettiest families of plants cul- 
tivated in the green-house ; and its culture is highly de- 
serving of more general attention than has hitherto been 
bestowed upon it. However, there are many pretty va- 
rieties finding their way into the collections in the vicin- 
ity of Boston, which I hope will still continue to receive 
additions. The plants are neat and pretty in habit ; and 
when in flower form a lively contrast xoith other plants of 
the green-house : they are indeed, a class of plants that 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE ERICA. 123 

are grateful to the common observer — claim the strict at- 
tention of the ameteur — and are worthy the most minute 
examination of the curious and refined. In a good col- 
lection they possess many shades of color, as vjhite, green, 
red, pink, &c. ; and in some instances they are variegated 
or checkered in a very pretty manner. The manner in 
which they flower is also various ; as, in clusters, spikes, 
and in numerical order which are designated as bijlora, 
triflora, and so on ; and in different habits as pendulous, 
erect, &c. The formation of the flowers also varies and 
has a definitive character, as that of tubifiora, curviflora, 
and the like regular forms. But their intrinsic value is 
only to be discovered by examining the flower minutely ; 
when the neat form and prettily contrasted colors always 
reward those who bestow such pains with a rich treat of 
one of nature's most finished copies. 

In the bouquet, the Erica is not surpassed by any 
flower of its season ; and no flower keeps longer as a cut 
flower in water. 

To my fair patrons I must recommend the more general 
culture of this pretty family of plants ; and, hope the lit- 
tle treatise to follow will at least assist those who are de- 
rous to cultivate them in their management, which when 
better understood, I am convinced will greatly add to the 
interest already manifested in the Erica. 

Art. 6. — Its Culture and Propagation. 
The culture of the Ericais, by many persons, consider- 
ed very difficult, although, when practically understood, 
it may be said to be very simple. Soil, situation, and 
temperature, must be in accordance with the nature of 
the Erica, or it will never nourish and flower well. All 
kinds of the Erica require a black peat or bog earth to 



124 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

flourish to perfection ; for the roots of the plants being fine 
and thready, cannot perforate into a heavy loam or close 
soil ; and, on the other hand, a very spungy soil would 
be quite as uncongenial to its nature. In fact, two kinds 
of soil are requisite to grow the different varieties to per- 
fection : the small, dwarf kinds require a dry peat, ob- 
tained from high, dry ground ; and the tall, luxuriant kinds, 
a soil obtained from a low, moist ground ; this is readily 
accounted for, as the dwarf varieties are found naturally 
growing on high ground, and the taller varieties on low 
grounds, but the nature of the soil is very similar. The 
situation of the Erica should always be that of a 
cool, shaded place. If the plants are exposed to the sun 
in summer, they will suffer at the root ; and placed where 
they receive too much fire heat in the winter, the leaves 
will be injured. The Erica should be moderately water- 
ed ; it should never be very dry at the root or very moist : 
if the roots are allowed to be entirely dried, the plant 
will sicken accordingly — if too moist, they will make a 
slender, feeble growth at the leaf, and decay. 

The Erica is propagated from seed, which I recommend 
to be sown in the month of December, or so soon as it is 
ripe, in a pot of black peat earth, and placed in the green- 
house. Care must be taken that the seed is not covered too 
deep ; if a quantity of white sand can be procured and pla- 
ced on the top of the earth, the better. When the seed is 
sown, the top of the pot may be covered with glass, until 
the plants make their appearance, when it may be re- 
moved from them. 

In the spring, when the plants are grown an inch or 
two in height, they are to be potted off, in small pots, 
for flowering, which will be, in the dwarf varieties, in the 
following spring ; — the larger kinds will not flower until 
the second year. 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE ERICA. 



125 



The propagation by cuttings is performed by filling pots 
of soil as before directed, and covering the top with white 
sand. The cuttings may be taken from the plant at a 
time when the young wood is grown an inch or two long, 
which will generally be in the month of September. They 
are to be taken off at a joint, the lower leaves taken off 
with a sharp pair of scissors, and the cuttings neatly 
pricked into the sand and covered with a bell-glass ; the 
bell-glass must be regularly taken off every day and 
rubbed dry with a cloth, in order to remove any mois- 
ture, and prevent their being damped off. When they 
are well rooted, they are to be potted off, in a small pot, 
as recommended for seedlings. 

Art. 7. — Descriptive List of Ericas. 



[Those marked 


thus t are to be foi 


and in most 


col] 


ections and seed 


freely.] 










Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. Height. 


Time of flowering, 


ERICA. 


Heath. 








tgrandiflora 


great-flowered 


Yellow 


3 


May, Sept. 


tcruenta 


bloody-flowered D. Red 


2 


May, Sept. 


ignescens 


fiery 


Red 


lh 


March, June. 


ttubiflora 


tube-flowered 


Pink 


2 


April, July. 


Hibbertia 


Hibbert's 


0. Yellow 


2 


June, Sept. 


tcolorans 


coloring 


W. Red 


2 


April, June. 


verdis 


green-flowered 


D. Green 


2 


May, Sept. 


Massoni 


Masson's 


R. Green 


3 


July, Oct. 


tbi color 


two-colored 


G. Red 


2 


March, Oct. 


tventricosa 


Porcelain 


Fleshed 


1 


April, Sept. 


Atonia 


Aiton's 


W. Purple 


2 


June, Sept- 


tbaccana 


Arbutus-leaved 


Purple 


2 


April, June. 


biflora 


two-flowered 


White 


1 


April, June. 


tardens 


glowing 


Scarlet 


2 


April, June. 


tarborea 


tree 


White 


4 


Feb., June. 


rubens 


red -flowered 


D. Red 


1 


June, Sept. 


tgracilis 


gracile 


White 


1 


Feb., June. 


tpersoluta 


garland 


Purple 


li 


\ Feb., May. 


taustralis 


Spanish 
11* 


Purple 


h 


March, July. 



126 



THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 



Botanical Name. 


English Name. 


Color. Hei 


;ht. 


Time of flowering 


fMediterranea 


Mediterranean 


Purple 


4 


Feb., May. 


vagans 


Cornish 


Red 


1 


July, August. 


formosa 


beautiful 


Red 


2 


June, Sept. 


tpubescens 


pale-downy 


Purple 


15 


Feb., Dec. 


tconcinna 


blush 


Flesh color 2 


Sept., Oct. 


coccinea 


scarlet-flowered D. Red 


I h 


Jan., Sept. 


Leeana 


Lee's 


0. Yellow 


2 


Jan., August. 


blanda 


charming 


L. Purple 


1 


April, Sept. 


Clifford ia 


Lady Clifford's 


White 


1 


April, May. 


elegans 


elegant 


Green 


1 


March, Nov. 


triflora 


three- flowered 


White 


1 


May, June. 


rubella 


thrift-flowered 


Pink 


2 


June. 


floribunda 


many-flowered 


Purple 


1 


May, June. 


imbricata 


imbricated 


Pink 


1 


May, August. 



PART 4. 

THE FLOWER GARDEN MISCELLANY. 



CHAPTER I. 

Oa tbe City Flower Garden. 



The flower garden attached to city residences, — when 
well managed, — embraces many useful features relative 
to health and pleasure, and in every way conveys to the 
proprietor a moral lesson in natural history of the most 
refined nature. I trust that every intelligent person is 
aware that the continual working of the ground, attached 
to city residences, is, in every way, conducive to the 
health of the inmates, by dispelling and rectifying the 
impure vapor, arising from smoke and other causes, that 
condenses and settles on the surface of the ground ; 
which is purified if the earth is frequently turned up; and, 
in conjunction with this, the benefit arising is of com- 
mon interest, in proportion to the quantity of ground kept 
in such order, in any city or town. 

Phytologists and philosophers inform us that the vege- 
table kingdom exhales certain gases conducive to the 
health of mankind ; and hence we infer the utility 
of trees and plants in cities, especially when we 
take into consideration their beauty and cooling shade. 



128 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Nature, the best criterion, convinces us of the use of 
plants and flowers, the earth being covered in a measure 
with them, no doubt for the wise purpose of the welfare 
of the animal kingdom. 

In order to derive pleasure from a fine collection of 
flowers, it is necessary to pay proper attention to their 
varied and perpetual flowering ; so much the more in- 
viting would they appear to the admirer ; and the sure 
guide to this gratification, is to furnish the flower garden 
with a suitable collection of plants. These are the in- 
ducements to the culture of the city flower garden ; and 
that a moral lesson may be derived from flowers, is proved, 
from the researches of the most learned philosophers, to 
the untaught prattling of the humble cottage. 

The fragrance of the Rose is admired by all ; its struc- 
ture gives a pleasing lesson to the young botanist or na- 
turalist ; to the artist it furnishes a superior copy for 
many purposes ; and the apothecary extracts many essen- 
tial oils and waters from its petals, which are also used 
in a dry state, as conserves and for various other purposes. 
Nor is the White Lily, in its purity, less deserving a 
place in every city flower garden. Its fragrance, together 
with its pure white petals, is produced from bulbs, which 
are valuable in cases of swellings and wounds. 

Flowers contain also, in their primitive state, male and 
female parts, covered with the petals or colored leaves, 
which are in their infant state ; enveloped in a calyx, or 
outer covering, by which they are protected or supported 
when expanded ; most flowers have also an equal propor- 
tion, and an exact number of parts, in many thousands of 
blossoms ; and in these there is every thing to please, 
and nothing to offend, the most refined or chaste obser- 
vers. 



ON THE CITY FLOWER GARDEN. 129 

In concluding this subject, it may be necessary to offer 
a few remaks on the management of the city garden. I 
earnestly recommend it to be kept neat and clean, in order 
to promote the health of the plants and their owners. It 
should be often worked, to create a clear, sweet, healthy 
air ; and at different times fresh mould should be added, 
to give new vigor to the plants ; much manure is seldom 
requisite, as city gardens are often too rich, owing to the 
quantity of lime, ashes, and the like, incorporated with 
the soil. 

The grass plot requires to be often mowed for conve- 
nience, neatness, and the well being of the grass. 

The plan of the garden I recommend to be such as to 
give ease with variety ; so as to accommodate various 
plants and shrubs ; the walks to be of clean gravel, with 
an edging of box or neat dwarf plants — as the Thrift, 
Dwarf Iris, Moss pink, and such like. 

The trellises, arbors, walls, fences, and so on, should be 
covered with vines and creepers, so that the whole may 
have a corresponding appearance. 

In laying out flower gardens, Jet them be so managed 
that many kinds of flowering shrubs may be introduced ; 
for this purpose beds should be appropriated. The most 
common error in laying out city gardens is, that they 
are too much cut up into small figures, and consequently 
shrubs, so essential to give a variety, cannot be admitted. 
Nothing' should be cramped, but every thing should have 
an open, easy appearance, in the flower garden. (See 
Part 1, Chapter I, " On Laying out the Flower Garden.") 



130 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

CHAPTER II. 

On the Native American Flower Garden. 



Native plants and flowers are those which are found 
growing spontaneously, without the aid of culture ; per- 
haps no country has a finer or more numerous collec- 
tion of hardy flowering plants than the United States ; 
indeed, no collection can be said to be complete, without 
the American Flora, which has engaged the attention of 
horticulturists to such an extent in Europe, that grounds 
have been prepared and adapted for American plants ; and 
it is greatly to be hoped that the present good taste for 
gardening in this country, will be the means of intro- 
ducing the many pretty varieties of flowers that are to 
be found in every part of the Union ; particularly the 
beautiful Azelias, Kalmias, Rhododendrons, and many 
others, that are much wanted in the flower garden. 

It would far exceed my prescribed limits to give a de- 
scriptive list of the many varieties of plants that deserve 
a place in the native flower garden. I have, therefore, 
given a list of those which most deserve notice ; and, as 
in every section of this country, there are to be found 
native plants adapted to their peculiar situation, I recom- 
mend that such as are pretty be selected and planted as 
similar as possible to their natural location. This method 
will at once create a taste for cultivating native plants and 
flowers, and facilitate a practical knowledge of their habits 
and location, in a natural state. Nothing can be a more 
inviting appendage to the country residence, where a sufli- 



ON THE NATIVE AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN. 131 

cient quantity of ground can be appropriated, than a plot 
converted into an American flower garden ; especially on 
the banks of rivers and streams, as those of the Hudson, 
and many others, from which water might be introduced. 
In such situations, every variety of native plants might 
be commodiously planted, and grown to a high state 
of perfection. 

The best method of laying out such gardens, is to 
manage the water so as to form a narrow strip or stream 
two or three feet deep, and if a natural stream can be had, 
the better : at the end an artificial pond might be made 
at a trifling expense, for growing the Water Lily, and 
Native Aquatics ; and also for the purpose of introducing 
gold and silver fishes. 

The south margin of the stream might be advantageous- 
ly planted with native flowering shrubs, as the Azelias, 
Kalmias, Spireas, and those that are found growing in 
such situations : the margin of the pond should be plant- 
ed with drooping willows and trees of a pendulous habit 
for shade, under which a rustic seat might be properly 
placed for the accommodation of those who desire to view 
the sporting fishes, and other interesting objects by which 
they are surrounded. Attached to the pond or streams, 
I recommend a well arranged grass plot, with a few 
figures cut therein, which should be planted with native 
herbaceous plants, and dwarf shrubs. On the margin of 
the grass plot, a serpentine or some well contrived walk, 
bordered with shrubbery, leading to a rockery, of a semi- 
circular form on the north side, and almost straight on 
the south. A rockery so situated, might be planted with 
various perennial and annual plants, and dwarf shrubs, 
which would there find a natural aspect and location. On 
the circular side of the rockery, divided by a walk, a 



132 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

broad belt might be planted with different kinds of native 
shrubs, as Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Azelias, Androme- 
das, and Spireas. 

In some convenient place near the rockery, a rustic 
arbor may be very properly placed, and covered with 
native vines and creepers, for the accommodation of visit- 
ers, and the junior members of the family who wish to 
study botany. The plants should be properly labelled 
with the botanical name on one side of a neat tally, and 
the native state on the other. For the better accommo- 
dation of those who collect native plants, they should be 
furnished with " Nuttall's Genera of the Plants of North 
America,' 1 a work which in a very concise and correct 
manner, gives the habit, time of flowering and location of 
all native plants, and should be in possession of every 
lover of botany. 



CHAPTER III. 

On Plunging Green-house Plants in the Flower Borders* 



The flower garden may be greatly beautified in sum- 
mer, by plunging into the borders and beds, many varieties 
of green-house plants, in their different compartments, in 
order to give a diversity of foliage. The plants are also 
much benefited by this method. Being placed in the 
ground in this way, their roots are in a better situation 



ON PLUNGING GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS IN BORDERS. 133 

and receive a more regular supply of moisture than could 
possibly be applied to them in their former position. 

The best time and manner of performing this, is to turn 
out some of the most hardy kinds in the beginning of 
May, as the China Rose, Laurestinus, Myrtle, and the 
like : the more tender kinds, as the Geraniums, Fuchsias, 
and others, may remain until the middle or latter part of 
that month, at a time when the frosts are over. This 
process, like many others, must be managed agreeably 
to the situation of the country in which it is to be per- 
formed, and the nature of the season at the time of doing 
the work, which a judicious person will at once discover, 
as a practical knowledge is worth volumes of theory. 

Care should be taken to place every plant, as near 
as possible, in a situation the best adapted to its na- 
ture. The Camellia, Daphne, Nerium, and most kinds of 
evergreens, thrive best in a shaded situation; others thrive 
and flower more effectually in an exposed location, as the 
Geranium and most kinds of fulgid flowers. 

Some taste is also required in placing the plants 
where their habit will have the desired effect ; some 
require sticks to cling to, and should be placed in the 
centre of small figures, as the Thunbergia alata, and 
Maurandia Barclayana, and all convolvulous plants : 
others are more proper for the facings of borders and 
clumps, being of a trailing nature, as the Verbena melin- 
dris, and Verbena capitata. Vines and creepers are best 
adapted to the covering of arbors, trellises, and so on. 

The Thunbergia alata, Maurandia Barclayana, and 
the like climbing plants, may be trained to appear to ad- 
vantage on trellis of an ornamental form, as that of a fan, 
balloon, or pyramid, which should be of a size correspond- 
ing to the place they are planted in. 
12 



134 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

There are many kinds of plants belonging to the green- 
house that ought to be propagated either in the fall by 
cuttings and remain in the house through the winter, or 
to be propagated early in the spring, for the express pur- 
pose of ornamenting the flower garden in the summer ; 
as, the different varieties of the Heliotrope, the Fuchsia 
or Ear-drop, the Verbena, and soft, free-flowering plants, 
which should be plunged out of the pots; — they should 
be mixed indiscriminately among the other plants in the 
vacant places ; — however, in some cases they are planted 
separately in beds by themselves, as in small figures on 
grass plots, where they have a very pretty effect in the 
flowering season. 

All plants set out not to be taken up in the autumn for 
the green-house or rooms, should be plunged into the 
ground out of their pots. But those intended to be taken 
into winter quarters, as most kinds of evergreens and the 
like, should be plunged in the pot into the ground. Being 
plunged in the pot, the strong, luxuriant growth they 
would acquire, will be in a measure repressed, owing to 
the roots being curtailed ; whilst if turned out of the pot 
they would extend their roots some distance in the soil, 
and when taken up in the fall, the roots would be severed 
and the plants weakened so as to require some time to 
recover. 

The management of green-house plants in this way is 
simply to water them when they need, and prune any 
straggling branches that appear during the season. 



ON THE MANAGEMENT OF CUT FLOWERS. 135 

CHAPTER IV. 

On the Management of Cvit Flowers. 



It being now an almost universal practice to have cut 
flowers in rooms as natural ornaments, some hints rela- 
tive to the management of them may perhaps be of service 
to their fair patrons. To preserve cut flowers, such as the 
Dahlia and succulent kinds, in a fresh manner, and to 
keep them from wilting and fading in summer, when cut 
from the plant they should be immediately immersed in 
clean water, by which the pores will be filled with water 
and exhaustion prevented, and consequently the flower 
will remain in a fresh state. 

Packing cut Jloivers. — In packing cut flowers to go 
some distance in the winter season, I recommend to put 
them in a wooden box of a size corresponding to the quan- 
tity to be packed, the inside of the box to be lined with 
cotton wool, and the flowers to be laid loosely in the box> 
beginning at the bottom with the hardiest kinds, placing 
them in such a manner that the flowers are upwards and 
that the leaves intersect them ; arranging the whole 
so that one part will spring lightly on the other in 
case of a sudden jerk in travelling: in this manner, pro- 
ceed with the whole to the top, which cover with a lid lined 
with cotton wool like the sides. In this mode of pack- 
ing, the wool serves to keep out the cold, and gives way 
to the flowers that press it without bruising or injuring 
them. 



136 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

For the preserving of flowers in rooms, I extract tne 
following from Sweet's Hot-house Manual, which is the 
only article I have seen in print and the best method I can 
recommend on the subject ; he says, 

" Many persons have expressed a wish to be acquainted 
with the best method of preserving cut flowers for a length 
of time in water ; this we have never seen satisfactorily 
explained, though it is a very simple question : the only 
method we have seen adverted to, is to frequently change 
the water ; this of itself is scarcely of any essential bene- 
fit : the only method is to cut off half an inch or an 
inch of the stem that has been in the water, according to 
the length of it; this will again open the pores that have 
become closed with glutinous matter that has exuded 
from the stem when first cut, and the pores being stopt, 
very often before the stem is placed in the water, fre- 
quently occasions rapid withering : by cutting the bottom 
of the stem, the moisture immediately begins to flow 
upwards and the branch soon recovers its vigor : 
the stems of flowers are also frequently kept in water un- 
til the bottom begins to rot and decay ; those, if cut above 
that, will also recover again, and when placed in fresh 
water will frequently continue fresh for some time after- 
wards. Flowers bought in shops and markets, are often 
dried at the bottom, before restored again to the water; 
the bottoms of the stems of these should therefore be al- 
ways cut before immersed in water again. Specimens 
of plants coming from a long distance are frequently much 
withered when they arrive ; they should therefore be en- 
closed at the bottom in wet moss, tied round them before 
they are packed in a box or basket ; we have frequently 
had them arrive much withered, and find the best way of 
recovering them to cut the bottom of the stem or branch,. 



ON THE CULTURE OF PLANTS IN ROOMS, ETC. 137 

and place their ends in about an inch of water in the bot- 
tom of a large bread pan, or some such vessel, and sprin- 
kle a little water on their leaves, and they will in general 
be all fresh in the morning : the vessel must be covered 
close with a wooden, or other cover, that fits close, and 
excludes the air." 



CHAPTER V. 

On the Management of Plants in Rooms, and of Bulfog 
in Pots and Water Glasses. 



Art. 1. — Result of Mismanagement. 

In order to be as explicit as possible on the manage- 
ment of plants in rooms, I refer the reader to the first part 
of this book and to carefully peruse the articles on the food 
of plants and the necessary stimulants, as heat, light, air, 
SfC, with the remarks on the bud, the root, and the leaf: 
which will give some useful hints on the tendency of 
plants to the presence of such natural food and stimulants 
as contribute to their health and well being. 

After a careful reading of those articles it will be seen 
that the management of plants in rooms is not so diffi- 
cult a task as is generally supposed, and that much of the 
assiduous attention paid to them is more conducive to 
their sickness than their health and vigor. 

In most cases, plants are taken into rooms at an early 
part of the autumn on the approach of the frost, and are 
12* 



13S THE FLOWER GAKDEN COMPANION. 

subjected to a sudden and injurious change of air, tem- 
perature and treatment. From receiving what nature 
bestowed upon them, as the dew, the sun, and air, they at 
once become objects of the tender and diligent attention 
of their fair cultivators, who foster them in a close room, 
watering them frequently at a time when they require to 
be hardened to withstand the severity of the coming win- 
ter. Under this management the natural growth and 
quality of the plant is reversed, by its being forced into a 
weak, slender habit and constitution, and the consequence 
is that having put forth its vigor at a time unnatural to 
vegetation, its property is partly exhausted and a weakness 
ensues from which it cannot possibly recover till its whole 
system undergoes a renovation, which will take a year at 
least, and in some cases the plants never can be brought 
again to their proper healthy state. 

Art. 2. — Management of the Plants. 
Previous to the plants being brought into the room they 
should be divested of any dead leaves, repotted and clean- 
ed as directed under the head of green-house plants in the 
green-house department. 

Much of the health and thriftiness of the plants 
will depend on their being so situated that they can enjoy 
the light from a window, and if in a situation to receive 
the morning and mid-day sun the belter. The best man- 
ner of arranging them is on a semicircular stage with 
running casters to it by which it can be moved to any part 
of the room at pleasure; and as light will have no benefi- 
cial effect on plants at night, the stage may be removed 
to any part of the room the most convenient and corres- 
ponding to their nature. The dimensions and construction 
of the stage should be in proportion to the size of the win- 



ON THE CULTURE OF PLANTS IN ROOMS, ETC. 139 

dow, and should be so made that the lower shelf is on a 
level with the bottom of the window, in order that the 
plants placed on it may receive the light. The plants 
should be placed on the stage in a manner that they can 
all receive the light from the window. They should often 
be turned, as all plants always incline to the light, and be- 
ing reversed they reverse their position also, and hence 
they are by this method kept in handsome form, and every 
part of them will have an equal share of vigor. 

Every opportunity should be taken to let in fresh air to 
the room, through the window in fine, soft weather, and in 
any other maimer in cold weather. So essential is fresh 
air to plants that the least possible quantity let in mixes 
with the impure air and greatly rectifies it — and of 
course the more pure the air the more healthy is the plant. 
Indeed cleanliness and wholesome air are the two princi- 
pal things to be attended to in this case. 

Watering plants, is by many persons considered as a 
very difficult point in growing plants in rooms; however, 
a few practical hints on the subject will I think so sim- 
plify it, that any person may water plants with the 
greatest advantage. The rule is that all plants indicate 
when water is necessary to be applied by their drying the 
earth in pots. If the plants suffer for the want of pro- 
per moisture, they lose their leaves and breed scaly 
insects, red spiders, &c, (for a more particular notice of 
which, see the article on diseases of plants, Part 2, 
Chapter VII. J On the other hand, when they are over- 
watered, the earth in the pots continues in a moist state, 
and from the effect of saturation often sours, which is very 
injurious to the plants. Most kinds of fleshy plants as the 
Cactus, Aloes, and the like, require but little water in the 
winter. Camellias and hardy evergreens require but lit- 



140 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANIONS 

tie water in the winter months, and more when the flower- 
ing season comes on. Most plants in a growing state re- 
quire to be often watered, but at the same time they should 
be as much as possible situated so as to receive the atmos- 
pheric air;and it should be at all times a consideration not 
to allow plants of any kind to grow but as little as possible 
in rooms or in a confined situation. 

Art. 3. — Growing Bulbous Rooted Plants for Rooms. 
In the latter part of November, a compost of mellow 
loam mixed with a little sand and leaf mould may be pre- 
pared for potting such bulbs as Hyacinths, Narcissus and 
those kinds required to be grown in rooms. The pots 
may be filled with the above compost, and the bulb placed 
in the centre by pressing it down in the earth so that its 
crown is level with the earth ; the pots must now be plac- 
ed in a situation where they do not receive much light, as 
bulbs always strike root much better in darkness than 
when fully exposed to light. Little water will be requir- 
ed to be given until the bulbs begin to grow, when the wa- 
tering may be gradually increased as they increase in 
height, and when the flowers show they may be co- 
piously watered. When the plants have done flowering 
they may be placed in the ground as soon as the weather 
will admit, to renovate their strength. 

Art. 4. — Groiving Bulbs in Glasses. 
Hyacinths and Narcissus may be grown to good ad- 
vantage in glasses in rooms. The best time to commence 
this business is in November : the glasses may be filled 
with clear water and the bulbs placed in them ; they should 
then be placed in a light, airy room where the temperature 
of air is moderate, in order to start them in a vigorous 



02* THE MANAGEMENT OF FRAMES. 141 

manner ; as often when they are placed where they are 
started into growth too rapidly they are drawn very weak 
and flower badly. In the process of growing bulbs the 
water should be changed every three or four days and the 
fibrous roots rinsed in clean water, as any putrid substance 
or impure matter that either collects about them or is in 
the water is likely to injure them in the process. 

If the weather is mild when the flowering is over, they 
may be managed like those in pots, by planting them in 
the flower beds to regain their vigor. 



CHAPTER VI. 

On the Management of Garden Frames* 



In flower gardens where choice collections of plants 
are always fostered, it is proper to have two or three 
garden frames for the protection of the half hardy kinds 
of herbaceous plants, as the Carnation, Polyanthus, Au- 
ricula, &c. The frames for this purpose may be of al- 
most any dimensions, but those of a moderate size are 
the best — say of three lights, from nine to twelve feet 
long, and from four to five feet wide. The location of 
the frame should be where it can have the full influence 
of the sun ; it should be well protected from the cold 
winds by a board fence or otherwise. Care must be 
taken that the place is chosen where it is perfectly dry, 
or the snow water running into it will rot and destroy 
the plants. 



142 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Having the ground and frame thus prepared, about 
the middle of September a lining of leaves or manure 
may be placed around it, of about two or three feet wide. 
In the bottom of the frame, some cinders or ashes may 
be laid, to keep it dry and to keep the worms from 
working up the earth among the pots. Place the 
plants in a regular manner in the frame, the largest at 
the back and the smallest in the front ; be careful that 
they stand level, in order that when watered the water 
may not wash off at one side. 

The manage oient of the frame in the fall is simply to 
water the plants when they require it ; to pick off all the 
dead leaves, and keep it in every way neat and clean. 
The sashes must be regularly taken off in the morning 
and closed at night, on fine days, until the cold weather 
appears ; when they must be left on at all times ; except- 
ing fine, mild days, when they are to be taken off in 
order to air and strengthen the plants. 

When the weather sets in severe, the frame must be 
lined all around two or three feet thick, and as high as 
the glass, with hot horse manure ; and the lights must 
be regularly covered at night with shutters, boards, mats,, 
or the like, and uncovered in the morning unless the 
frost is too severe, in which case the covering may be 
kept on all day. 

During the winter the interior of the frame should 
often be looked over of a fine day, and divested of any 
dead leaves or other nuisance. As the spring advances, 
more air may be given, and the plants hardened by de- 
grees to plunge into the flower garden, as directed under 
the proper head. 



ON SPRING AND FALL MANAGEMENT. 143 

CHAPTER VII. 

On Spring and Fall Management. 



Art. 1. — Spring Management. 

When the snow begins to disappear in the spring, the 
shrubbery and flower garden may be often overlooked, 
and some of the plants and shrubs that have much cover- 
ing over them, may have a part of it taken off: for it often 
happens that plants being too much covered at this season 
of the year, make a feeble growth and are much weaken- 
ed and injured thereby when fully exposed ; we should 
therefore uncover all kinds of plants and shrubs by de- 
grees as the spring advances, for by either exposing them 
too soon, or keeping them covered too long, we cause them 
to make a weak and tender growth. 

When the snow is all gone, the garden may be 
cleansed of all kinds of covering and rubbish that have 
collected during the winter, and everything should have a 
neat, cleanly appearance. The grass plot may also have 
a good raking in order to remove from it all the dead 
leaves and decaying substances, which often deter the 
the young growth of grass from coming up in a regular 
manner : and the consequence is that it seldom has a 
handsome appearance during the summer season. 

Pruning and training. — The earliest opportunity 
should be taken to prune and train all kinds of shrubs, 
vines, creepers and the like. In this operation a few 
leading principles are requisite to be known, and the 



144 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

thing is so simple and easy that any intelligent person 
can perform it in the most accurate manner. 

The first thing to be observed in pruning any kind of 
trees or shrubs is, to take particular notice of the natural 
shape or habit of the plant to be pruned. This will be 
found to be different in almost every different kind of 
plants ; for instance, in some plants we find them naturally 
to assume an upright habit ; in others a straggling, and in 
some a weeping: the first is exemplified in the Rose of 
Sharon; the second in the Rose and Snoivberry ; and the 
third in the Weeping ivillow, Cherry, and the like. 

To retain these habits and improve the symmetry of 
plants, in such a manner that the sun and air may have as 
much as possible a regular access to every part of them, 
is the leading principle of pruning : for although in many 
cases the natural habits of shrubs and plants are cramped 
into unnatural forms, in order to give variety of effect) 
it cannot be recommended to be followed as a general rule • 
for whenever the natural habits of trees or plants are 
distorted into unnatural forms or positions, it has more 
the appearance of mockery than reality. Nature in this 
and every other case should be as much as possible copied 
and assisted, but never cramped into unnatural forms 
and positions. 

The natural habits of the plant being noticed, the next 
thing is to examine and cut out all the dead wood. 
In this operation the pruner must not be deceived and dis- 
figure the plant by cutting out such shoots as will be re- 
quired to be left to fill the vacancies of the dead wood in 
the growing season. The dead wood being taken out, the 
next thing is to prune the plant in a regular manner by 
cutting out all the weakly shoots and thinning in such a 
manner that the sun and air have a free access to every 



ON SPRING AND FALL MANAGEMENT. 145 

part : all long straggling shoots should be taken off that 
the shrubs or vines may have a regular compact appear- 
ance. In performing this operation, sharp knives and in- 
struments should be used that the wounds may be cut 
clear and heal freely. 

Training all kinds of vines, as Honeysuckles, Clematis, 
Bignonia, and the like, may be done with despatch in or- 
der that everything may have a neat and cleanly appear- 
ance. The training of vines is simply done by tying 
them neatly with bass or other strings, in such a manner 
that every part is equally divided at a regular distance, 
and to allow a sufficient space for the summer-wood to 
grow and be trained between the shoots laid in at this 
season. In training vines and shrubs, regular systems are 
often adopted to a good purpose as ornamental, for which 
I refer the reader to that head in page 133, where the dif- 
ferent methods are described. 

Art. 2. — Fall Management and Covering Plants. 

We should be cautious that the early frost does not 
destroy the Dahlia roots and tender green-house plants 
before they are co\*ered or housed : I mention this the more 
particularly as it is very often the case, especially with 
young beginners in flower-gardening, that tender plants 
are left too long unprotected, and thus are much injured, 
if not totally destroyed. 

The potting of plants, putting them in the frames, and 
the like, are spoken of under their proper heads in the 
Miscellany, to which I refer the reader. 

The covering or protecting plants should be attended 

to so soon as the frost begins to be severe. The Box 

edgings may be protected by seaweed, hemlock brush, or 

other light covering. Merely to keep off the sun from 

13 



146 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

scalding Box edging will be sufficient, as it is more inju- 
red by the sun thawing and bursting the sap vessels than 
by being severely frozen ; and hence it is that the leaves 
of Box edgings have a scalded appearance in the spring. 

The same rule that is here given with regard to Box 
edging, is applicable to covering most other plants. The 
principal object is to protect them from the sun : for it is 
not the severe frost that injures them, so much as the sun, 
which when it exerts its full power on them, bursts their 
veins in a frozen state and causes the plants to sicken, 
and in many cases to die. Many plants, as bulbs and 
herbaceous plants, are often materially injured in the 
spring by being in a warm state and commencing growth 
when excluded from air; and when uncovered, the leaves 
made are tender, and suffer very much on being exposed 
to the sun and air. 

If any China roses., tender vines or the like are to be 
left out during the winter, they must be protected, either 
by bending them down and covering them with soil, or 
by strawing them up in a neat manner, — first tying 
up the branches, and then snugly covering them with 
straw. 

In many cases the flower borders, if not in too conspi- 
cuous a place, would be much better if the stalks of herba- 
ceous and other plants were not cut down in the fall; for 
there is no better protection than the stalks of plants, and 
especially if leaves can be obtained from woods or else- 
where and put around the crowns of the plants, in which 
case the stalks will keep the light leaves in their places 
until the snow binds them down. Recollect that nature 
has given leaves and stalks to plants as a natural cover- 
ing, and therefore they are best adapted to the purpose. 



ON THE SHRUBBERY. 147 

CHAPTER VIII. 

On tlie Shrubbery. 



The shrubbery is so nearly allied to the flower garden 
that in a work professedly treating of the latter, a parti- 
cular notice of the former subject is required. In- 
deed, it is rarely that the flower garden has a good 
and natural appearance without the presence of the 
shrubbery, either as forming an outline on the margin, or 
occupying a prominent situation at one end for the conve- 
nience of a shady retreat or other useful purpose. Upon 
a careful observation of the general methods of laying 
out flower gardens, it will be seen that there is too much 
sameness in their appearance, arising [from the neglect 
to appropriate a part of the ground to the shrubbery. 
This I imagine to be chiefly owing to the geometrical or 
Dutch system being mostly followed in the laying out of 
flower gardens : and hence a system has been adopted 
that is altogether proper and natural to a foreign climate, 
but has little claim upon good taste in this country, 
where climate and local circumstances are so opposite. 
It is a well known fact that the Dutch are the most suc- 
cessful cultivators of the Tulip, the Hyacinth, and most 
other kinds of bulbous rooted plants, in the known world ; 
and it is also known that the soil and situation in which 
they are grown are of a humid nature, which is congenial 
to most kinds of bulbous rooted plants. Such local cir- 
cumstances, united with industry and intelligence, have 



148 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

put the Dutch in possession of an annual income from 
flower roots of a very large amount, which it is probable 
will not be equalled by any other country for ages. But 
the climate of America is not favorable to the culture of 
bulbs to a great extent, owing to the soil and atmosphere 
being dry : on the other hand, hard-wooded shrubs of 
most kinds, are well adapted to our soil and climate, and 
flourish in almost any part and place in the Northern 
States. The native varieties of shrubs, as American 
Honeysuckles, American Laurel, Andromedas, and the 
like, are particularly adapted to the shrubbery, and are 
highly deserving a more general introduction into it. 

I recommend that shrubbery be more frequently plant- 
ed on the margin of lawns, the outsides of the flower 
garden, and indeed in all kinds of foregrounds and side 
entrances to residences of almost any denomination. To 
residences on the main road and in the immediate vicini- 
ty of cities, shrubbery can with every propriety be intro- 
duced on the side wings of the lawn and carriage roads : 
and in many cases if a belt or border of some seven or 
eight feet wide of shrubbery be planted in front next to 
the road that passes such places, it would add much to 
the beauty and value of the property. In many places 
of this description the front entrances are planted alto- 
gether with forest trees, as the Balsam Fir, Sugar Ma- 
ple, Horse Chestnut, and the like tall-growing kinds, 
which when grown to the full size give a heavy and 
gloomy appearance where a lively variation should have 
the precedence. There can be no objection, however, to 
a few ornamental trees being planted in front of such 
houses or even mingled with the shrubbery, and particu- 
larly if so managed as to form a screen or outline to pro- 



ON THE SHRUBBERY. 149 

tect the building from the cold winds, when trees so situ- 
ated serve the double purpose of shelter and ornament. 

In planting shrubs of every denomination, the general 
rule must be to place the plants so that their habit and ap- 
pearance will be really ornamental and at the same time 
subserve (or at least seem to) some useful end : for in- 
stance, the taller kinds, as the Lilac, Snowball, and the 
like, are the most proper to cover board fences, and the 
back part of shrubberies ; the more dwarf kinds, as the 
Double Almond, Roses, Mezeron and so on, for the front 
or facing. There is also some taste required in mixing 
the varieties of foliage and habits of the different kinds 
to be planted, which can only be acquired by a due ob- 
servance of shrubs when in full foliage. The planting 
should be so managed that when grown up the outline is 
natural, that is to say, not too formal ; but here and 
there a little broken by some tall shrub growing above 
the rest. 

In the front of such plantations a part of the ground 
should be planted with herbaceous and other kinds of 
plants, which when nicely mingled with the shrubs form 
a pretty contrast in the flowering season. Indeed the 
margin of a shrubbery is the only situation where such 
plants will flourish and show to good advantage, besides 
giving a fine finish to the whole. 

For the manner of planting shrubs, I refer the reader 
to an article on that subject in a former part of the book ; 
(Part 2, Chapter III.) 



13* 



150 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

CHAPTER IX. 

On Potting and Repotting Plants. 



Art. 1. — Potting Green-house Plants. 

[The following directions for potting green-house plants 
are equally applicable to hardy plants, &c] 

Potting green-house plants is mostly done a short time 
previous to taking the plants into the house, which is 
generally the beginning or middle of September. In 
performing this business, the first thing to be attended to 
is the procuring of clean pots, compost, &c. to be used. 
The compost that will answer most plants, consists of 
about two thirds of good mellow loam taken from the 
top sod of a pasture or other place where sheep, oxen or 
other animals have lain and enriched it : this should be 
taken off about six inches deep and laid in a heap some 
time in order that it may rot and incorporate together. 
The loam may be mixed with one third of well rotted 
leaf mould, or other rich old manure that will mix and 
incorporate with the loam ; — if the loam is not of a 
sandy quality, a little sand may be applied in order to 
give a little drainage to the plants to be potted in it. For 
some families of plants, as the Erica, Diosma, &c, a 
black peaty or bog earth is the most proper and must be 
obtained from the sides of woods, natural bogs, &c. 

Having the soil prepared, the potting may be com- 
menced by carefully turning the plants out of the pots, 
and paring off with a sharp knife part of the roots matted 



ON POTTING AND KEPOTTING PLANTS. 151 

around the ball. This done, select a pot of a size to 
allow some fresh compost to be put into the bottom and 
side ; then pot the plant, thus : — lay a few pieces of 
pots or other crockery at the bottom of the pot to act as a 
drainage ; place two or three inches of the compost over 
the crockery in the bottom of the pot, and then place the 
plant with the ball in the centre of it, filling the sides 
between the pot and ball with compost, when the pot 
may have a gentle shake with the hands to settle the 
earth about the ball and roots of the plants. The plants 
may then have a gentle watering, and be placed where 
they are to remain until they are taken into the green- 
house. 

Art. 2,- — Potting of Plants taken from the Ground. 

The beginning of September is the best time to take 
from the ground and pot such plants as are intended to 
be taken into the green-house or rooms. In performing 
this business the plants must be taken as carefully 
as possible from the ground with a portion of earth 
about their roots and potted in the same manner as 
directed above ; but their treatment requires to be some- 
thing different by placing them in a shady situation after 
being potted, in order that they may root the more freely 
into the new soil that they are potted in. When the 
plants begin to make new roots into the fresh soil, they 
are to be divested of any dead leaves that may be about 
them, and more exposed to the sun previous to their be- 
ing removed to the green-house or rooms. 

Art. 3. — Potting of Young Plants from Cuttings. 
All kinds of young plants, as Geraniums, Roses, and 
the like, propagated from cuttings, should be potted 



152 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

in small pots as soon as they are well rooted. Having 1 
your compost and pots (which should always be small 
for this purpose) prepared, commence the business by 
carefully turning out the cuttings with the ball of earth 
entire ; when the plants may be divided with as much 
earth as possible about their fibres, and potted in the 
same manner as directed for the above. The plants 
when potted off should be placed in a frame, where 
their rooting freely into the soil in the pots, may 
be facilitated by covering them when the sun shines 
strongly on them. If a frame is not at hand, the plants 
may be placed in a shady situation until they are well 
tooted. 



CHAPTER X. 

On the Culture of the Pansy or Heartsease. 



The Pansy having become so favorite a plant in the 
flower garden, I shall devote, a small space to remarks 
on its culture. 

To obtain new varieties the same process as with 
other flowers must be resorted to, namely ; selecting out 
the best kinds and impregnating one with the other in 
order to mix the colors and obtain those which are con- 
sidered by florists the best marked flowers, which are 
those with a clear, dark ground, and well shaped petals 



ON THE CULTURE OF THE PANSY. 153 

that are regularly margined or laced either with white or 
yellow ; but white is the most delicate and is considered 
the best. 

Having procured the seed, it may be saved to the 
spring, when it may be sown either in a pot of light, 
rich earth, or in a frame. As soon as the plants are 
grown to a moderate size, they are to be pricked out 
either into beds or borders of rich earth of a moist, 
loamy nature ; in many cases they are planted as a 
bordering for flower borders, — and when they are of a 
good width they have a very pretty effect in the flowering 
season. But xhe more proper way is to plant them in 
four-feet beds, and if a little shaded from the noonday 
sun the better. 

The Pansy is in most cases hardy; however, if the choice 
and tender kinds are a little protected in the winter, they 
will flower much better in the spring following. The 
general manner of planting the Pansy is to prepare a 
piece of ground in the usual way for planting and divide 
it into four-feet beds with eighteen-inch alleys ; and 
plant the seedlings across the beds about a foot apart 
each way ; and they are to be in every way treated as 
other flowers. When the plants are fully grown or fit 
for transplanting, they may be mixed with other flowers 
in the borders for flowering, and a little shaded from the 
mid-day sun, which generally runs the delicate colors 
of them. 

The Heartsease, or Pansy, of choice kinds may be 
potted and protected in frames during winter, or they 
may be planted in the soil in frames and covered ; and 
indeed the more choice kinds may be with every pro- 
priety placed in the green-house to flower early, where 
they will have a pretty appearance. 



154 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

I quote the following article from Harrison's Floricul- 
tural Cabinet, (for Oct. 1837,) as containing some excel- 
lent directions for the culture and propagation of the 
Pansy. " The compost I use is one fourth maiden loam, 
two fourths black garden mould, and one fourth rotten 
dung. When the bed is prepared, I draw lines longitudi- 
nally from ' one end of the bed to the other, by which 
lines I set the plants in rows. A bed four feet wide will 
allow of four longitudinal rows of plants ; there should 
be one foot allotted to each plant in the rows. I always 
choose short strong plants, which are small in circumfe- 
rence, When I have finished planting, I procure some 
hoops and mats, for the purpose of shading the plants for 
a few days, until they have fully established themselves. 
As soon as the season of propagating commences, which 
I consider about the first of July, or if a late season it 
may be delayed till the first of August ; I proceed cutting 
off the strongest shoots, observing to cut them off at a 
joint, and then putting the different varieties into separate 
vessels of soft water, for a few hours, which I find greatly 
to promote their striking. The cutting bed is composed 
of about one third pit or river sand, to ensure a closeness 
round the cuttings ; then the cuttings of each variety are 
planted separately and numbered, and are allowed to re- 
main in that situation until the following spring, when 
they are taken up and planted in beds. It greatly im- 
proves the flowers, if the plants are watered with liquid 
manure, twice or three times a week ; it is necessary to 
to keep a watchful eye upon the plants that are left for 
seed, for it will disperse itself in a few minutes after it is 
matured." 



THE PRAIRIE. 

[selected.] 

The Prairie was clad in its richest array, 
Its brightest of scarlet and gayest of green ; 
And the sun seemed to pause in his luminous way, 
And to sparkle with joy o'er the beautiful scene. 

The flowers, though florists will hardly agree 
To a doctrine so strange and so novel to them, 
Were blushing, and loving, and making as free, 
As if each had a heart in its delicate stem. 

Every gay little bud, had a smile for her peers, 

Though the violet certainly looked rather blue ; 

And the blush of the rose seemed to glow through her tears 

But perhaps as 'twas early the drops were of dew. 

Had you seen them, dearMyra, you never again 
Would be sceptic enough to deny that a flower 
Had tender sensations, and pleasure and pain, 
And sweet recollections of sunshine and shower. 

The wild deer was gracefully bounding along, 
And tossing his anthers so proudly the while, 
That the gay little blossoms he cantered among, 
Were restrained by good manners alone, from a smile. 

The Prairie bird strutted about with the air, 
Of a tragedy king, or a comedy lover ; 
While a pair of fond turtles, an amorous pair, 
Were quietly cooing a love lecture over. 

And music, such music ! the air bore along, 
As it swept the green hillocks, and shook the lone tree ; 
The Prairie bird's note and the mocking bird's song, 
And the hoot of the owl, and the hum of the bee. 



156 THE FLOWER. GARDEN COMPANION. 

And the cracking of twigs as the wolf trotted by, 
And the bark of the hunter's dog far o'er the plain ; 
The report of the rifle, and the fawn's plaintive cry, 
And the dirge of the crow, and the shriek of the crane. 

And the cattle bell tinkling, just heard far away, 
And a farmer's boy whistling, the time to beguile ; 
And a voice in my heart, what it was I can't say, 
That was warbling of Myra and love all the while. 

And I thought how delightful a change it would be. 
When disposed to forsake the clay form I inhabit, 
To live upon dew like the delicate bee, 
Or to gallop through grass like a deer or a rabbit. 

Or to a chaste bud with an aspect of snow, 
Or a dandy of flowers, a gaudy gay fellow ; 
On the wide sunny Prairie to dance and to bow, 
With a mantle of green and a trimming of yellow. 

And I thought, but I happened just then to awake, 
How the best settled intellects sometimes will rove ; 
And yet 't is a pleasant excursion to take, 
With Mab o'er the Praries when one is in love. 



GLOSSARY 



A, in composition, signifies without, as Aphylla, without leaves ; 
Acaulis, without a stem, &c. 

Acaulis ; having no stem. Gentiana acaulis, Cnicus acaulis. 

Acuminatus, pointed sharp. Erica acuminata. 

Acutus, sharp, pointed, acuminate. Rumex acutus. 

Alatus, winged; having membraneous appendages. Passijlora 
alata. 

Alburnum, the white wood near the bark of trees. 

Albus, white. Populus alba, Azalea alba. 

Amabilis, amiable ; pleasing. Crinum amabile. 

Amphibium, amphibious; growing either in or out of the water. 
Polygonum amphibium. 

Augustus, narrow, straight, slender. Kalmia angustifolium, Linum 
angustifolium . 

Apex, the summit; generally applied to anything terminating in a 
point. 

Apiculatum, (apis, a bee,) resembling a bee ; as the flowers of Del- 
phinum datum, or Bee Larkspur. 

Aquaticus, {aqua, water,) growing in water. Poa aquatica ; Water 
Lily, &c. 

Arbor, a tree. 

Arboreus, shrubby ; woody. Daturea arborea; Erica arborea. 

Ardens, bright; glowing; burnished. Erica ardens ; Pelargonium 
ardens. 

Argenteus, silvery ; white and shining like silver. Protea argentea. 

Armatus, armed with spines, aculei, &c. Acacia armata. 

Articulatus, jointed. Cacalia articulata. 

Asterias, (a star,) stellate. Stapelia asterias. 

Atropurpureus, compound of black and purple. Camellia atropur- 
purea. 

14 



153 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Augustus, imperial ; grand ; magnificent. Pelargonium augustum. 
Australis, southern ; coming from the south. Erica australis. 
Azurea, (azure, sky blue,) sky blue colored. Campanula azurea. 

Barba, a beard ; a species of rigid pubescence. Chironia barbata ; 
Dianthus barbatus. 

Bicolor, (com. bis and color,) two colored. Erica bicolor ; Pelargo- 
nium bicolor. 

Biennis, of two years duration. Gaurabiennis. 

Biflorus, (com. bis and Jlos,) two flowered. JS'arcissus biflorus; Eri- 
ca bijlora. 

Borealis, northern. Linnea borealis. 

Bxactea, an ornamental leaf, exemplified in the Lime or Basswood, 
and Poinsettii pulch crimus . 

Cceruleus, sky colored. Trachelium cccruleum. 

Campanulatus, (campana, a bell,) bell shaped. Ipomcea campan- 
ulata. 

Capitatus, growing in a head ; a species of inflorescence. Verbena 
capitata ; Diosma capitata. 

Cardinalis, principal ; chief; also scarlet, from the color of a cardi- 
nal's robe. Lobelia cardinalis . 

Carneus, (carnis, flesh,) flesh colored. Veronica carnea. 

Carnosus, (carnis, flesh,) fleshy ; plump; thick; pulpy. Hoya car- 
nosa. 

Catharticus, purgative. Rhamnus catharticus. 

Ciliatus, (cilium, the eye-lid,) edged with hairs like an eye-lid. Eri- 
ca ci'.iaris, Diosma ciliata. 

Coccineus, scarlet ; a deep scarlet. Salvia coccinea. 

Co!or, hue ; a sensible quality distinguishable by the eye. 

Colorans, (color,) a term used to express mutability and diversity of 
color. Erica colorans. 

Coma, a head or tuft of hair ; a terminal bractea, forming a tuft as in 
Eucomis punctata ; Lavcndula spicata. 

Communis, common ; general. Pyrus communis. 

Compactus, close ; compact; solid. 

Concolor, one colored. Erica concolor; Lilium concolor. 

Conspicuus, clear, apparent ; excellent ; very grand. Erica conspicua. 

Corculum, (dim. of cor, the heart,) a little heart ; the embryo of the 
future plant, contained in the seed. 

Cordatus, (cor, the heart,) heart-shaped. Diosma cordata. 

Cornutus, horned. Erica cornuta. 

Corolla, a little crown ; chaplet, or garland ; the painted leaves of a 
flower. 



GLOSSARY. 159 

Cortex, the outer rind or covering of trees and plants. 

Coronatus, (corona, a crown,) resembling a crown. Lychnis coronata; 
Erica coronata. 

Corymbus, a cluster of ivy berries. 

Crassifolius, (crassus, thick ; fleshy,) fleshy leaved . Saxifraga 
crassifolia. 

Crispus, crisped ; curled ; crumped. I.via crispa. 

Cruentus, bloody ; red like blood. Erica cruenta. 

Cupreus, (cuprum, copper,) copper colored. Iris cuprea. 

Cyaneus, of a bright blue color. Arista cyanea. 

Cylindricus, (cyli7idrus,& cylinder or roller,) cylindric. Gnaphalium 
cylindricum. 

Deciduous, subject to fall. A tree is deciduous when the leaves fall off 
in autumn. 

Decorus, handsome ; graceful. Protea decora ; Erica decora. 

Decussatus, (decusso, to divide crosswise.) A plant is decussate 
when its leaves point in four directions only, or crosswise. Veronica 
decussata. 

Defoliation, (de, from, and folium, a leaf,) the shedding of leaves. 

Dentatus, toothed ; having notches like teeth. Mostly applied to the 
margins of leaves. Lavendula dentata; Aspidium dentatum. 

Didymus, (twins,) two united. Monarda didyma. 

Dipetalus, two petalied. Pclargoninum dipetalum. 

Discolor, (two and color,) two colored. Tradescantia discolor. 

Divaricatus, growing in a disorderly manner; inclining. Phlox di- 
varicata. 

Dulcis, sweet ; nectariferous, lnga dulcis ; Solanum dulcimer a. 

Echinatus, covered with prickles. Pelargonium echinatum. 

Edulis, eatable; good for food. Boletus edulis ; Passiflora edulis. 

Elegans, elegant ; handsome ; neat ; fine. Erica elegans ; Eupato- 
rium elegans. 

Ensiformis, sword-shaped. Mimosa ensifolia. 

Equestris, (equus, a horse,) having the fancied resemblance of a 
horse's head. Amaryllis equestris. 

Erectus, erect ; upright ; aspiring. Clematis erecta. 

Erubescens, blush colored. Erica erubescens. 

Eximius, choice ; excellent ; noble. Gnaphalium eximium. 

Falcatus, (falx, a hook or sickle,) hooked; bent like a sickle. As- 
paragus falcatus. 

Ferrugineus, iron colored ; rusty. Lasiopetalumferrugincum; Rho- 
dodendron ferrugineum- 



160 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Filamentosus, (filum, a thread,) thread-shaped ;' producing fila- 
ments. Yucca Jilamentosa. 

Fimbriatus, fringed; flounced. Gentiana fimbriate/, ; Camellia fim- 
briata. 

Flagelliformis, fiagellum, a whip. Cactus jlagelliformis . 

Floridus, florid ; gay ; fresh. Gardenia florida. 

Foetidus, of a rank smell. Pothos fcetidus ; Cerissa fcetida. 

Folium, a leaf of a plant. 

Formosus, beautiful ; handsome; ornamental. Ruellaformosa; Po- 
tentilla formosa. 

Fragrans, having a smell, either agreeable or disagreeable ; but gen- 
erally applied to the former. Olca fragrans. 

Fruticosus, (frutex, a shrub,) shrubby. Althea frutex. 

Fulgens, shining ; glittering; resplendent. Lobelia fulgens ; Salvia 
fulgens. 

Genera, pi. of Genus. 

Genus, a kindred ; a race ; a family. 

Gibbosus, (gibbus, bunched out, gouty,) abounding with excrescences, 
particularly at the joints. Pelargonium gibbosum. 

Giganticus, giant-like ; huge. Colotropris gigantea. 

Glandulosus, furnished with glands. Hypericum giandulosum- 

Glomeratus, (glomero, to gather into a round heap,) collected together 
in around assemblege. Gnaphalium glomeratum; Mesembryanthe- 
mum glomeratum.. 

Gloriosus, superb ; grand. Yucca gloriosa. 

Gracilis, slender ; weak ; lank. Jasminum gracile ; Puschia gra- 
cilis 

Grandis, great ; lofty; sublime. Tectona grandis ; Banksia grandis. 

Grandiflorus, {grandis, great, and ftos. ) Cactus grandifiorus. 

Granulatus, (granum, a grain of corn.) Resembling a grain of corn 
in any part. Saxifraga granulata. 

Gratus, grateful ; agreeable. Lonicera grata. 

Hepaticus, (hepar, the liver,) liver colored ; lobed like the liver. Ane- 
mone hepatica. 

Hibernacula, winter quarters ; a part of the plant which protects the 
embryo herb ; the covering of a bud. 

Hirsutus, rough ; hairy ; shaggy. Epilobium hirsutum ; Viola hirsuta. 

Hispidus, rough ; bristly ; rugged. Robinia hispida. 

Hortensis, (hortus, a garden,) pertaining to or growing in gardens. 
Anemone hortensis. 

Hybridus, (a mongrel,) bastard ; partaking of the nature of two spe- 
cies. Erica hybrida. 



GLOSSARY. 161 

Ignescens, (ignis, fire,) fiery; ardent. Erica ignescens; Pelargo. 
nium ignescens. 

Imbricatus, tile-like ; laid over one another. Aloe imbricata ; Dios- 
ma imbricata. 

Immersus, immersed ; growing under water. 

Incanus, hoary ; mouldy; colored. Cistus incanus. 

Incarnatus, (in and caro, flesh,) flesh colored. Erodiumincarnatum. 

Indigena Planta, a native of any country is indigenous to it : home 
bred. American laurel and Honeysuckles are examples of indigenous 
plants. 

Infundibuliformis, (infundibulum, a funnel,) funnel shaped. Erica 
infundibuliformis. 

Inodorus, having no smell. Allium inodorum ; Syringa inodora. 

Integra, entire ; whole. Clematis integrifolia. 

Involucrum, (involvo, to envelope,) wrap or fold in. 

Laccatus, (lac, milk,) milky ; also, improperly lake colored. Gladio- 
lus laccatus. 

Lsevigatus, (/cms, smooth.) Prinos Icevigatus; Calicanthus lcezi_ 
gatus. 

Lanatus, woolly ; covered with a downy pubescens resembling wool. 
Stachys lanata ; Geranium lanata. 

Lanceolatus, (lanceo, a spear or lance,) lance shaped. Acacia lanceo- 
lata. 

Latifolius, broad-leaved. Kalmia latifolia. 

Liber, the inner bark of trees and plants. 

Liliacea, plants resembling the lily. 

Linguus, (lingua, a tongue,) tongue shaped. Aloe lingua. 

Lobatus, (the flap of the ear,) lobate. Pelargonium lobatum. 

Lophantus, a crest or mane. Acacia lophanta. 

Maculatus, spotted ; speckled. Arum maculatum. 

Major, the bigger ; greater. Tropceolum majus. 

Mammillaris, (mamilla, a little breast.) Cactus mammillaris. 

Maritimus, growing near the sea. Crambe maritima. 

Maximus, greatest ; the superlative degree of dimension. Convolvu- 
lus major. 

Meleagris, a Guinea fowl ; speckled. Fritillaria meleagris. 

Micans, glittering; shining. Lavatera micans ; Pelargonium micans , 

Microphyllus, small-leaved. Edwardsia microphylla ; Fushcia my- 
crophylla. 

Minor, (com. of parvus little) less ; smaller. Convolvulus minor. 

Monophyllus, one-leaved. Kennedia monophylla. 

14* 



162 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Monstrosus, monstrous ; out of ordinary course of nature. Hyacin- 
thus monstrosus. 

Montanus, (mon~ i i mountain,) growing on mountains. Veronica 
montana. 

Moschatus, having a musky smell. Rosa moschata. 

Multiflorus, (multus, many and Jlos,) many flowered. Rosa multiflo- 
ra, Jasminum -multi jtorum. 

Muscosus, mossy ; resembling moss. Rosa muscosa ; Moss Rose- 

Nanus, dwarf, of humble growth. Philadelphus nanus. 

Naturalis, agreeable to nature. 

Nectarium, (nectar, honey,) the part of a flower or plant that contains 
honey. 

Niger, black ; dark colored. Orobus niger. 

Nobilis, notable, grand. Laurus nobilis. 

Nocturnus, (nox, night,) night flowering ; night smelling. Oenothera 
nocturna; Oestrum nocturnum. 

Nummularius, (nummus, coin,) round like a piece of coin. Lysima- 
chia nummularia. 

Obtusus, blunt ; obtuse. 
Octagonus, eight angled. Cactus octagonus. 

Odor, smell, either good or bad, but mostly applied to such as- are 
grateful. Daphne odorata. 
Orientalis, eastern. Gnaphalium orientate, Papaver orientale. 
Ovatus, (ovum, an egg,) egg shaped. Phlox ovatum. 

Pallidus, pale ; of a dusky white color. Crocus pallidus ; Calceola- 
ria pallida. 

Palustris, (palus, a marsh,) growing in marshes. Caltha palustris ; 
Hibiscus palustris. 

Paniculatus, (panicula,) panicle flowered. Phlox panicula. 

Parvus, small ; insignificant. 

Pastoris, (pastor, a shepherd,) of a shepherd. Bursa pastoris. 

Pavonius, (pavo, a peacock,) spotted with gay colors as a peacock. 
Gorteria pavonia. 

Pedunculus, (pes, afoot,) the proper footstalk of a flower. 

Pencillatus, (pencillum, a painter's pencil,) painted as if with a pen- 
cil ; delicately painted, as the lines or spots in the Pelargonium. 

Pentagonus, five angled. Cactus pentag onus . 

Pentapetalus, five petalled, flowers having five distinct petals or flower 
leaves. 

Persolutus, accomplished ; elegant. Erica persoluta. 



GLOSSARY. 163 

Pictus, (pingo to paint,) painted. Pelargonium pidum. 

Planta, a plant. 

Plumatus, (pluma, a feather,) feathery, downy. Erica plumosa. 

Polypetalus, many petalled, as the Rose and Dahlia. 

Praecox, early. Calycanthus prcecox. 

Princeps, chief; principal. Passiflora princeps. 

Prostratus, prostrate ; lying flat. Disandra prostrata ; Banksia 
prostrata. 

Pulchellus, pretty ; neat ; elegant. Cyrilla pulchella. 

Pumilus, dwarf. Iris pumila. 

Purpureus, purple colored. Aster purpureas. 

Pyramidalis, (pyramis, a pyramid,) pyramidal : tapering. Phlox 
pyramidalis. 

Quadrangulans, four angled ; square. Passiflora quadrangularis . 
Quinquefolius, (qui?ique, five, and folium.) Ampelopsis quinquefolia. 

Raeemosus, (racemus, a cluster of grapes,) flowering and growing in 
clusters. Symphora racemosa. 

Radicans, (radix, a root,) rooting ; producing claspers resembling 
roots. Bigiwnia radicans. 

Ramus, a bough or branch of a tree. 

Reniformis, (rents, the kidneys,) kidney shaped. Pelargonium re- 
niforme. 

Repeus, creeping. Ranunculus repens. 

Retortus, (turned backwards,) bent back; twisted. Erica retorta. 

Revolutus, rolled backwards. Cycus revoluta. 

Ringens, grinning ; gaping. Mimulus ringens. 

Rivalis, of or pertaining to a river. Mimulus rivalis. 

Roseus, rose colored. Ixia rosea. 

Rotatus, (rota, a wheel,) wheel-shaped. Pancratium rotatum. 

Rubellus, somewhat red ; redish. Erica rubella. 

Rubens, ruddy ; blushing. Crassula rubens. 

Ruber, red. Valeriana rubra. 

Rubicundus, deep red ; also, ruddy. Kennedia rubicunda. 

Rugosus, rough ; wrinkled ; furrowed. Calceolaria rugosa. 

Sanguineus, blood-colored. Geranium sang uineum. 
Scariosus, having longitudinal incisions or channels. Liatris sea' 
riosus. 
Sempervirens, ever- green. Lonicera sempervirens. 
Sparsus, scattered ; spread abroad. Beaufortiasparsa. 
Spicatus, (spica, a spike,) spike-flowered- Liatris spicata. 



164 THE FLOWER GARDEN COMPANION. 

Spletidens, glittering ; splendid ; beautiful. Lobelia splendens. 
Stamina, the male organs of a flower. 
Sterilis, barren. Fragaria sterilis. 
Stoloniferus, creeping. Phlox stolonifera. 
Striatus, channelled ; also, striped. Geranium striatum. 
Strobilus, the Artichoke ; the cone of a Fir. 

Suaveolens, (suavis, sweet,) smelling sweet; more commonly appli- 
ed to strong scented. Phlox suaveolens. 
Sylvestris, (sylva, a wood.) Anemone sylvestris. 

Tardiflorus, (tardo, to be long in coming; and Jlora.) Aster tar- 
difiora. 

Tenellus, slender, delicate. Aster tenella. 

Translucens, (Iransluceo, to shine through.) Pelargonium translu- 
cens. 

Tremulus, trembling ; shaking. Populus tremula- 

Truncatus, (iruncus, cut short, maimed,) leaves, roots, &c. are called 
truncate when they terminate bluntly as if cut, or bitten off. Cactus 
truncatus. 

Tubiflorus, (tubus, a tube,) tube-flowered. Erica tubiflora. 

Umbellatus, (umbella,) umbellate. Agapanthus umbellatus. 

Undulatus, (unda, a wave,) waved; when the margins of the leaves, 
or petals are larger in proportion than their disks. Pittosporum undu- 
latum, Amaryllis undulata. 

Variegatus, (modern Latin,) having an intermixture of colors. Iris 
variegatus , Pelargonium, variegatum. 

Vernus, pertaining to the spring. Phlox vernus. 

Versicolor, changing color ; particolored. Iris versicolor ; Oxalis 
versicolor. 

Verticillatus, whorl -flowered. Acacia verticillata. 

Viridis, green ; flourishing. Lachenalia viridis, 

Vittatus, (a fillet, or ribbon) ribbon like. Amaryllis vittata. 

Volubilis, twining round other bodies. Hibbertia volubilis. 



APPENDIX 



Art. I. — DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF ANNUAL FLOWERS. 

[The first column gives the common name, the second the botanical, 
the third the height in feet, the fourth the color. Those marked thus * 
are climbing plants. Those marked thus § are delicate annuals, and 
should be sown in hot beds in April and transplanted into the open 
ground the end of May, or beginning of June.] 



Mexican Ageratum 


Ageratum mexicanum 


ll 


Blue. 


Sweet Alyssum 


Alyssum maritinum 


1 


White. 


Grand flowering Argemone 


Argemone grandiflora 


2 


White. 


Aster White 


Aster hortensis fl. alba 


id 


White. 


Purple 


var. fl. purpurea 


ii 


Purple. 


Red 


var. fl. rubro 


li 


Red. 


Lilac 


var. fl. carnea 


n 


Lilac. 


Red striped 


var. fl. obscura 


ii 


Striped. 


Purple striped 


var. fl. striata 


1^ Striped. 


Quilled red 


superba rubro 


I| 


Red. 


Animated Oats 


Avena sensitiva 


2 


Green. 


§Blue Amethyst 


Browallia elata 


1 


Blue. 


§White do. [flower 


alba 


1 


White. 


§Scarlet Cacalia, or Tassel 


Cacalia coccinea 


2 


Scarlet. 


Venus' Looking Glass 


Campanula speculum 


1 


Purple. 


*Balloon Vine 


Cardiospermum halicacahum6 


White. 


Great American Centaurea 


Centaurea americana 


2 


Pink. 


Purple Sweet Sultan 


moschata 


2 


Purple. 


Yellow Chrysanthemum 


Chrysanthemum fl. lutea 


2 


Yellow. 


White do 


coronaria 


2 


White. 


Beautiful Clarkea 


Clarkea pulchella 


2 


Purple. 


Dwarf Convolvulus 


Convolvulus minor 


1 


Tricolor. 


*Great Pu. Morning Glory 


purpurea 


10 


D. blue. 



166 



APPENDIX. 



Blue Commelina Commelina ccelestis 
§*Two col'd Orange Gourd Cucurbita bicolor 

§*Orange Gourd aurantina 

§*Large Bottle Gourd lagenaria 

Elegant Coreopsis Coreopsis tinctoria 

Elegant Escholtzia Escholtzia californica 

Variegated Euphorbia Euphorbia variegata 

Branching Larkspur Delphinium consolida 

Double do var. pleno 

Rose do. var. rosea. 

Dwarf rocket do. ajacis 

Beautiful Ketmia Hisbiscus trionum 

African Hibiscus vesicarius 

Azure Blue Gilia Gilia capitata 

Double BalsamSj mixed Impatiens balsamina 

Rose colored fl. rosea 

Variegated variegata 

Purple purpurea 

Pure white alba 

Crimson rubro 

*Scarlet Morning Glory Ipomea coccinea 

^Crimson Cypress quamoclit 

Sweet Peas, Painted Lady Lathurus odoratus 

*White Sweet Peas alba 

*Purple do. fl. purpurea 

^Scarlet do. fl. rosea 

^Striped do. fl. striata 

Red Lavatera Lavatera trimensis 

White Lupins Lupinus albus 

Yellow do. luteus 

Large blue do. hirsutus 

Rose do. varius 
Ten weeks' Stock gilliflow'r Mathiolus annua 

Purple Ten Weeks' Stock fl. purpurea 

White do. fl. alba 

Scarlet Malope Malope trifida 

§Ice Plant Mesembryanthemum 

§Sensitive Plant Mimosa pudica 

Marvel of Peru Mirabalis jalapa 

Red and yellow striped do fl. rubro flava 



2 Blue 

10 Yellow. 
10 Yellow. 
10 W. Green. 

3 Yellow. 

1 Yellow. 
3 White. 

2 Various. 
2 Blue. 

2 Rose. 

1 Various. 

2 Striped. 
Yellow. 
Blue. 
Various. 
Rose. 
Striped. 
Purple. 
White. 
Red. 

10 Scarlet. 
6 D. Red. 

Fleshed. 

White. 

Purple. 

Scarlet. 

Striped. 

Red. 

White. 

Yellow. 

Blue. 

Rose. 

Red. 

Purple. 

White. 

Scarlet. 
1 White. 

1 Pink. 

2 Red. 

2 Striped. 



Red and white striped do 
Yellow Virginia Tobacco 
Trailing Nolana 
Grand flow'g ev'g Primrose 
Red and white evening do. 
Hybrid Evening Primrose 
White evening do. 
Lindley's evening do. 
White Officinal Poppy 
Double white fringed do. 
Double carnation do. 
Double rose do. 
SScarlet Pentapetes 
*Scarlet flowering Bean 
Red Persicaria 
Marvel of Peru 
Sweet scented Mignonette 
Wing leaved Schizanthus 
Double purple Jacobea 
Double white do 
§White Egg Plant 
Vanilla scented Stevia 
African Marigold 
Orange Africa do. 
French do. 

*§Winged Thunbergia 
*Great Nasturtium 
Hearts' ease 
Golden Eternal flower 
Red Zinnia 
Yellow do. 
Violet do. 
Elegant red do. 



fl. rubro alba 
Nicotiana rustica 


3 
3 


Striped. 
Y. Green. 


Nolana prostrata 
Oenothera grandiflora 
rosea alba 


1 
3 
1 


Blue. 
Yellow. 
R. White. 


Oenothera hybrida 
tetraptera 
lindleyii 

Papaver somniferum 

fimbriatum pie. 


1 
1 

1 
4 
3 


Pink. 
White. 
P. White. 
White. 
White. 


nigrum pleno 
rhreas pleno 


3 
2 


Various. 
Various. 


Pentapetes phcenica 
Phaseolus multiflorus 


2 
12 


Scarlet. 
Scarlet. 


Polygonum orientale 
Petunia nictagynaflora 
Reseda odorata 


6 
3 
1 


Red. 

White. 
Cream. 


Schinzathus pinnatus 
Senecio elegans 
fl. alba. 


2 
2 
2 


Various. 

Purple. 

White. 


Solanum melongena 


2 




Stevia serrata 


1 


White. 


Tagates erecta 


3 


Yellow. 


var. 

patula 
Thunbergia alata 
Tropseolum majus 
Viola tricolor 


3 
2 

4 
4 
1 


Orange. 

Blue. 

Y. Purple. 

Orange. 

Various. 


Xeranthemum lucidum 


3 


Yellow. 


Zinnia multiflora 
pauciflora. 
elegans 


2 
2 

2 


Red. 

Yellow. 

Violet. 


var. rubro 


2 


Red, 



16S 



APPENDIX. 



Art. II.— DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF BIENNIAL FLOWERS. 

[Those marked thus § are delicate, and require to be housed in the 
winter.] 



Rose Champion Agrostemma coronaria 

Double light blue Columbine Aquilegia vulgaris 



dark blue do. 

dark purple do. 

white do. 

§Bloody Wall Flower 

Carnation Pink 

Broad leaved Pink 

Chinese imperial do. 

Sweet William, of sorts 

Purple Fox Glove 

White do. 

Yellow do. 

§French Honeysuckle 

Canada Hedysarum 

Honesty, or Satin Flower 

White Mallows 

§Persian St jck Gilliflower 

§Russian do. 

§White wall leafed do. 

§Purple Prussian Gilliflower 

§ Twickenham do. 

§Scarlet Stock Gilliflower 
§0.ueen's do. 
Tree Primrose 



fl. azurea 
fl. purpurea 
fl. alba 
Cheiranthus cheiri 
Dianthus caryophyllus 
Dianthus latifolius 
chinensis 
barbatus 
Digitalis purpurea 
alba 
lutea 
Hedysarum coronarium 
canadensis 
Lunaria biennis 
Malva fl. alba 
Mathiola odoratissima 
var. 

glabrata alba 
glabrata purp. 
incana purp. 
var. coccinea 
var. alba 
Oenothera biennis 



Purple Topped Clary Salvia sclarea 

Long flowered Verbascum Verbascum micanthrum 



Red. 
L. Blue. 
D. Blue. 
D. Purple. 
White. 
Yellow. 
Striped. 
Pink. 

1 Red. 

2 Varieg. 
Purple. 
White. 
Yellow. 
Scarlet. 
Purple. 
Purple. 
White. 
L. d. 
Red. 
White. 
Purple. 
Purple. 
Scarlet. 
White. 
Yellow. 
L. Blue. 
Yellow. 



APPENDIX. 



169 



Art. III.— LAYING OUT GARDENS AND ORNAMENTAL 
PLANTATIONS. 

On Planting Ornamental Trees to 'protect Build- 
ings and to give effect to Landscape Scenery. — "With- 
out taking into consideration the value of forest trees, 
as regards the several uses they are applied to as tim- 
ber, (which will undoubtedly increase as the towns 
and cities on the seaboard increase in population ; and 
whilst the axe continues to diminish the timber forests 
of the country,) the planting of ornamental forest trees 
is really useful as relates to the domestic comfort of the 
inmates of dwellings, that are protected and ornamented 
by them ; by affording shade in the summer and protect- 
ing the building from the cold blast of winter. Orna- 
mental plantations of this kind also give a mellow and 
finished cast to the surrounding scenery, arid impress the 
traveller with an idea of the additional value of property, 
arising from an enterprising and intelligent community. 
And although much has been yearly doing in every sec- 
tion of this country, in the improvement of ornamental 
plantations, there are two considerations which seem to 
leave much to be done in that interesting subject : name- 
ly, the former idea of laying bare certain districts by cut- 
ting down almost every forest tree ; and the rapid growth 
of enterprise and commercial wealth being the cause of 
numerous dwellings of the first order to be built in the 
the vicinity of cities in rapid succession, within these few 
years, in situations which can only be ornamented with 
trees by a progressive culture which depends much on 
management. 

The principal object of this kind of planting being 
15 



170 APPENDIX. 

real utility blended with a picturesque effect, a certain 
knowledge of the different trees to be used is requisite to 
obtain the desired purpose ; as that of their port or habit, 
natural locations, the soil and favorite situations in which 
they thrive and form into the most beautiful structure and 
foliage. Having ascertained these prerequisites, which 
can easily be done by any intelligent observer taking the 
trouble to make a general survey of the trees growing in 
the neighborhood in which he intends to plant, — when 
their healthy or meagre habits may be practically ascer- 
tained in a more correct manner than from any theoretical 
essay that can be given by the pen, — the next thing to 
be considered is the soil and location of the ground to be 
ornamented, which should be in accordance with that of 
the most thrifty trees in their natural sites or place of 
growth. For let it be recollected, that the most beautiful 
kind of trees, when assuming a sickly appearance, greatly 
depreciate the good effect of ornamental plantations of 
this kind — whilst, on the other hand, those of less beau- 
ty, when in a healthy condition, perhaps serve to make 
a fine contrast in the general group. There is some taste 
also required in the arrangement or planting the ground, 
which must be kept in view with the natural habit of the 
trees before examined; which should be grown to their 
natural magnitude, so that some idea can be formed of 
the future appearance of the improvement about to be 
made, as well as the first planting or present appearance. 

Having ascertained the nature of the soil and location 
intended to be planted, and made a selection of such trees 
as seem to be suitable to the intended object, the next 
thing to be attended to is that of planting them in their 
proper places, where they can thrive and have a free, easy 
and useful appearance. In effecting this part of the bu- 



APPENDIX. 171 

siness, the most exposed situations at the north and 
northwest quarters should be planted in a neat and econo- 
mical manner. 

If a building is to be ornamented, the first considera- 
tion is in planting on the north and northwest quarter to 
break off the cold winds and protect it from storms. All 
kinds of unsightly objects that are in view should be con- 
cealed, and the whole group should have a fine pictu- 
resque effect at a distant view. This may be accom- 
plished by a little attention to the before named requi- 
sites. 

Whilst on the subject of ornamental plantations, 1 
cannot refrain from making some remarks on the great 
neglect of a subject that is so apparently the very nerve of 
useful improvement in almost every country, and more es- 
pecially in this where shelter and shade are accomplished 
by no other means in so advantageous a manner as by 
the presence of ornamental trees. The neglect of plant- 
ing appears to be in a measure owing to the too prevalent 
idea of a speedy return for money expended on general 
improvements ; but it must be recollected that every per- 
son who plants in this manner is almost certain to realize 
his first cost by the improved appearance given to his 
property which stamps a value as it were in the same man- 
ner, as if the trees were useful for the purpose of timber. 
There is also a kind of social effect given to the traveller 
when he passes through a country where buildings of this 
kind are ornamented by the presence of trees intended to 
give shelter and shade ; and indeed I know not of any 
legacy that can be transmitted from the father to the son, 
of a more useful and affectionate nature, than a fine 
grove of trees planted and reared by a careful and diligent 
hand. If such useful records were to be handed down 



172 



APPENDIX. 



from one generation to another, the bleak barrenness 
of landscape scenery, which is now in many places ap- 
parent, would be transformed into pleasing groups of or- 
namental plantations that indicate social comfort and in- 
telligence. 

Choice of Trees for Ornamental and Landscape Plan- 
tations. — Much art is required in selecting trees for plant- 
ing ornamental grounds ; as parks, lawns, foregrounds to 
country residences and such ornamental plantations. The 
planter should in this case duly consider the appearance 
such plantations will have when growing to maturity ; as 
the design will then have its full effect. Present appear- 
ances have, in many cases, but little to do with the future, 
which is the grand object of landscape gardening. 

The first consideration is the nature and quality of the 
ground to be planted, together with the different aspects 
and locations ; these things must invariably be considered 
in order that trees which will thrive best may be selected 
for planting, and have a pleasing appearance. To accom- 
plish this, such only should be chosen as are known to 
thrive in similar situation and soil. Native forest trees 
will be found, in most cases, to answer the best purpose 
for the park and exposed plantations (with the exception 
of some few varieties of foreign trees) their natural pro- 
perties being particularly adapted to this climate; conse- 
quently, they always assume a healthy appearance, which 
is the greatest consideration in landscape scenery ; as or- 
namental trees when in a sickly state, destroy that plea- 
sing effect they are intended to produce. 

In selecting trees from a nursery or elsewhere, at- 
tention should be paid to choose those that are of a well 
formed and regular growth, and from a situation where 
they have had free exposure to the sun and air : trees 



APPENDIX. 173 

grown too close together are always of a more tender 
nature than those in exposed situations, and are not so fit 
for being removed to an exposed place. 

If trees are to be selected for planting of a large growth, 
care must be taken to choose them in such a manner that 
their present and future place of growth correspond. 
Trees from different situations are found to have entirely 
different properties ; for instance, the oak, maple, elm, 
and indeed all kinds of trees where grown in an exposed 
situation are found to have protecting properties, corres- 
ponding to their natural location : their bark is of a thick, 
coarse nature, their roots are numerous and extend some 
distance into the ground, their tops and branches thick and 
spreading ; this is natural to trees growing in an exposed 
situation ; on the contrary, those in growing woods or 
confined places, of the same denomination as the above, 
have their bark thin, their branches few and on the top 
of the tree, their roots few in number and of a weak, slim 
nature. These facts should engage the attention of the 
planter, in order that the removing may be done in such 
a manner that their present and future soil and situation 
correspond. 

I particularly recommend the planter clearly to inves- 
tigate this subject, which is perhaps the best method of 
learning the physiology of plants ; natural cases are al- 
ways the surest guides to perfection. Nothing can be 
more pleasing to the horticulturist, than to reflect on the 
beautiful economy of nature, which imparts to the vege- 
table kingdom different qualities in the same genus of 
plants placed in different situations. The animal king- 
dom is in some respects similar, although more limited, 
which is accounted for, when we consider that they have 
a sensitive power and motion, and thus seek protection 
15* 



174 APPENDIX. 

from storms and sudden changes of heat and cold. But 
the vegetable creation in all its natural locations is station- 
ary, and consequently it has to endure the changes of the 
elements in its primitive place of growth. 

Thus it appears, that trees and vegetables when remov- 
ed, require to be placed as much as possible in the same 
aspect and in similar location as they w r ere in their infant 
state. And it should be the principal object of the arbo- 
riculturist to observe this rule as much as possible. 

Natural habit or foliage of trees. — The planter should 
only investigate the habit of such trees as are intended 
to be planted, and those that are of a large size and ex- 
posed so that the sun and air have access to every part 
of them. Such as are too much crowded together, will 
not attain a correct habit, as may be seen in the oak 
when growing in confined places in woods and groves ; 
It is then tall and slender, and has but few side branches, 
but when it is exposed it forms a neat tree of a hemi- 
spherical figure ; — the hickory in open, exposed places 
takes a very beautiful semi-elliptical shape ; — the conical 
form is seen in the tulip tree and button-ball when ex- 
posed ; — the balsam fir forms a fine pyramid of living 
green ; — and the Lombardy poplar is portrayed as a 
complete spindle shape. To these many intermediate 
habits may be seen, as in the elm, ash, walnut, and 
chestnut ; but any person who is interested in this part 
of ornamental planting, having duly investigated the 
above mentioned, will at once discover the habit of every 
tree sufficiently to be master of adapting them to the 
most suitable places. Practice here is the sure guide to 
perfection. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



NEW ENGLAND 

AGRICULTURAL WAREHOUSE, 
SEED STORE, 

AND 

OFFICE OF THE NEW ENGLAND FARMER, 

NO. 51 & 52, NORTH MARKET STREET, 
BOSTON. 

JOSEPH BRECK & CO. 



The proprietors of this establishment would inform their friends and 
the public, that they keep constantly on hand and for sale, the greatest 
variety of Agricultural Implements, Grass Seeds, Garden and 
Flower Seeds, Bulbous Roots, Double Dahlias, &c, to be found in 
the country ; — among which are the following : — 

AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS. 



C. Howard Cast Iron Ploughs, 
Tices's do. do. 

Side Hill, do. do. 

Double Mould Board do. 
Wrought Iron and Wooden Ploughs, 
Scott Keith, and other Plough 

Castings, 
Willis's Improved Cultivator, 
Green's Patent Straw Cutter, 
Willis's do. do. 



Common hand do. 
Manure and Hay Forks, 
Scythes of all kinds, 
Patent and other Snaiths, 
Hall's and other Hay Rakes, 
Grindstones on Rollers, 
Corn Shellers, 
Grain Cradles, 
Chains of all kinds, 
Willis's improved Seed Sower, 



176 



ADVERTISEMENTS, 



Gault's Patent Churns, 

Self Operating Cheese Press, 

Horse Power and Threshing Ma 

chine, 
Davis's Road Scrapers, 
Hale's Rotary Pump, 
Force Pumps. 
Copper do. 
Iron do. 



Lead Pipe, 

Underhill's Cast Steel Axe, 
Ba-k Mills, 
Corn and Cobb Mills, 
Harris's Paint do. 
Winnowing do. 

Grater Cider do. 
Cast Iron Cider Screws, 
Yokes of all kinds. 
With a great variety of Agricultural and Horticultural Tools, too nu- 
merous to mention. 



FIELD SEEDS. 



Northern Clover, 

Southern do. 

White Honeysuckle Clover, 

Lucerne, 

Herds grass, or Timothy, 

Red Top Southern Seed, 

Do. Northern do. 

Fowl Meadow, 

Orchard Grass, 

Ruta Baga, 

Mangel Wurtzel, 



Sugar Beet, #c. 

Winter and Summer Wheat, 

do. do. Rye, 

Barley, 

Oats, English, 
Corn of various sorts. 
Millet, 
Hemp, 
Flax Seed, 
Potatoes. 



GARDEN SEEDS, 

Of every desirable variety will be furnished wholesale and retail ; by 
the pound, box or package. 

SEEDS IN BOXES, 

For retailing, done up in the neatest manner in packages, with the 
name and directions printed on each parcel. Retailers supplied on most 
favorable terms, with boxes from one to a hundred dollars. 

FOR THE FLOWER GARDEN. 

We have a very extensive collection of choice Flower Seed3, em- 
bracing all the Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials worthy of cultivation. 
Packages of twenty fine sorts for one dollar. 

Ducth Bulbous Roots. Wp. import of these annually from Holland, 
a splendid collection, consisting of double and single Hyacinths, double 
and single Tulips, Crown Imperials, Narcissus, Iris, Crocus Gladiolus, 
Amaryllis, Ixias, &c. 

Double Dahlia Roots. Of this beautiful and popular flower, we 
have more than two hundred fine varieties, embracing all that were 
shown at the exhibition of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society. 
Roots can be furnished from the first of October to the first of July, 
safely packed in moss, and sent to any part of the country. 

Fruit and ornamental Trees and Shrubs furnished to order at Nurse- 
ry prices. 

Large plants of the Morus Mullicaulis, and cuttings of the same, 
can be furnished by the hundred or thousand at moderate prices. 

We would call the attention of the public to the New England Far- 
mer ; one of the oldest and best agricultural newspapers in the country, 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 177 

containing a great amount of interesting and useful matter for the prac- 
tical farmer and gardener. It is issued at our office weekly, on Wed- 
nesdays, at the moderate price of two dollars and fifty cents per year in 
advance, or three dollars at the close of the year. 

We also publish the Horticultural Register, and Gardener's 
Magazine, issued monthly, at two dollars per annum in advance, or 
two dollars and fifty cents at the expiration of six months. This work 
is devoted principally to the cultivation of Fruits, Vegetables and Flow- 
ers. New subscribers can be supplied with the back volumes at two 
dollars and fifty cents per volume bound. 

Among our agricultural Books we keep for sale, the Complete Far- 
mer; Kenrick's Orchadist ; American Gardener ; Bridgman's Garden- 
er's Assistant ; Moubray on Poultry ; Silk Grower's Guide ; Cobb's 
Silk Manual ; Loudon's Works, together with a great variety of useful 
and interesting works in this line. 

We hope by unremitting attention, to sustain the credit of this estab- 
lishment, and realize the anticipations of our predecessors, Newell, 
Russell, and Barrett, in making it one of the most complete deposito- 
ries for every thing in the Agricultural and Horticultural line in the 
country. JOSEPH BRECK & CO. 

GEORGE C. THORBURN, 

SEEDSMAN AND FLORIST, 
No. 11 John Street, Neio York. 

George C. Thorburn keeps constantly on hand the greatest variety 
of Garden Seeds of every description. Hyacinths, Tulips, Dahlias^ 
Narcissus, Ranuncules, Anemones, and other Bulbous Roots, supplied on 
favorable terms. For particulars, as to their names and cultivation, and 
also for Green-house and Hot-house Plants and Roses, a choice and su- 
perb collection of which are always on hand. The Green-houses are at 
Hallet's Cove, L. I. six miles from New York. 

Constantly on hand, a complete assortment of Gardening Tools — 
Canary Birds of the most approved song, and other singing Rirds — 
Bird Cages of every description; Fish Bone for Canaries — Chinese 
Gold Fish ; Glass Globes — Garden Hand Glasses of various sizes, for 
protecting early Cucumbers and Melons, for raising tender Flower 
Seeds, and for striking Cuttings of Plants — Bulb Glasses, plain, color- 
ed, and gilt, for flowering Hyacinths, Tulips, #c in winter — Pulver- 
ized Poth erbs by the pound or in bottles — Hawthorn Quicks for fences 
or hedges. 

Also, a collection of choice Books, on Horticulture, Agriculture, Flo- 
riculture, and Arboriculture. " The Planter's Guide," showing the 
best method of Removing Large Trees and Underwood — with superb 
Engravings ; printed on fine paper ; handsomely bound ; price Three 
Dollars. 

Imported from Scotland, every Spring, an extensive collection of the 
finest Gooseberry and Currant Bushes, with names, price two dol- 
lars per dozen. 

Persons wishing Fruit and Ornamental Trees, are referred to C. & 
A. J. Downing, Nurserymen, Newburgh, N. Y. (Newburgh is sixty 
miles from the city of New York, on the Hudson River — Steamboat 
communication daily. Orders to be sent to them direct. 



17S 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



WINSHIPS' ESTABLISHMENT. 

The Messrs. Winship have the greatest variety of Fruit, Forest, 
Ornamental Trees, Flowering Shrubs, Herbaceous and Green house 
Plants, to be found in the country. 

All orders forwarded by mail will be executed with promptness, or 
plants may be selected by persons visiting the Nurseries. 

Brighton, April 1, 1838. 



FRUIT TREES, ORNAMENTAL TREES, MORUS 
MULTICAULIS, &c. 

FOR SALE BY 

WILLIAM KENRICK, 

NONANTUM HILL, NEWTON. 

The varieties, particularly of the Pears and the Plums were never 
before so fine, the assortment so complete. Also of Apples, Peaches, 
Cherries, Grape Vines, a superior assortment of the finest kinds, and of 
all other hardy fruits. 

20,000 Morns Multicaulis, or Chinese Mulberry trees, can still be fur- 
nished at the customary prices, if applied for early, this being all that 
now remains unsold. 

Ornamental Trees and Shrubs, Roses and Herbaceous Plants, of the 
most beautiful hardy kinds. Splendid Pasonies and Double Dahlias. 

4,000 Cockspur Thorns, 10,000 Buckthorns for Hedges. 

800 Lancashire Gooseberries, of various colors and fine kinds. 

Harrison's Double Yellow Roses, new and hardy, color fine, it never 
fails to bloom profusely. 

Trees packed in the most perfect manner for all distant places and 
shipped or sent from Boston to wherever ordered. 

Transportation to the city without charge. 

Address by mail post paid. 

Catalogues will be sent gratis to those who apply. 

CHARLESTOWN VINEYARD. 

{Corner of Eden Street, Charlestown, Mass.) 

T H OxM A S~~ M A S O N , 

Keeps a general assortment of Green-house Plants — with a choice 
collection of Strawberries, Raspberries, Currants, &c. 

He offers for sale a quantity of his Seedling Grape Raspberries, 
which have been pronounced of superior quality. 

Orders may be left with Joseph Breck & Co. 51 and 52 North 
Market Street, lioston. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 179 

T. BRIDGEMAN, 
GARDEN, GREENHOUSE AND SEED STORE, 

Corner of Eighteenth Street, Broadivay, 

IMMEDIATELY NORTH OF UNION PLACE, 

And West of the New York and Harlem Rail Road, 

NEW YORK. 



POMOLOGICAL GARDENS, 

SALEM, MASSACHUSETTS. 



FRUIT TREES, VINES, SHRUBS, 



ORNAMENTAL TREES, 

Warrranted correct, constantly for sale, at the Pomological Garden 
of 

ROBERT MANNING, 

Dearborn Street, Salem, 
And at JOHN M. IVES' adjoining NURSERY— packed for trans- 
portation, and at Nursery prices. 

SCIONS OF FRUIT TREES, &c. 



EDWARD SAYERS, 

$djanb$&p6 §§j fjjfrnattwntaf ^<xvhmt j 

BOSTON, MASS. 

S/Ze (Election el £neen Gfifotteedy J&mjcna out cfriow&r- 

Qatdend, 0t7ia?n6ntat tylanttnq , dfc. dcdta7ied and 

auJieimtcnaect . 

Reference, JOSEPH BRECK & Co. 

Agricultural Warehouse, 51 # 52 North, Market street. 

£p5~AU letters of communication must be post paid. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



DDODTl^ESA 



